Has anyone succesfully transplanted a 700 series seat into a 240? The seat dimensions are similar but the tracks are way different. How much modification to the attachment pionts would be needed. Here is the story the seats in my 760 are torn and the seats in my 240 suck, I found 940 seats for 50 bucks. I want to put the 760 seats into my 240, the 940 seats into the 760 and the 240 seats in the dumpster. Actually the 240 passenger seat is going to be my computer chair!!!

I R&R'd the front seats from an 86 240.

One became my office chair - then after a MVA I had a back injury - this was the only chair I was comfortable in - I told my wife that I was going to collect a full set of 6 volvo buckets and make a dining room set.

Her response was less than enthusiastic!!

The other bucket became a TV lounge chair - I made a wooden rocker base and mounted the chair low to the floor. I left the slidder rack in place - by adjusting the slidr rack fore - or aft, I could vary the angle that the chair sat at - that and the reclining feature - this is a very comfortable TV longer.

Noe if I can get my wife to agree to use the 245 rear seats on the deck....

An office chair using the seat from a 240?? Now that sounds nice!!!

Hey Gord---how hard is it to make one into an office/computer chair? The chair I'm using now is nothing more than a folding chair. Is this easy to do, or will it take me a while to put together?

find a base from a chair that has a good base and a wrecked chair part.

Cut a piece of plywood large enough to mount the chair on, attach the plywood to the chair base and then attach the 240 seat to the plywood. I used pieces of 2x2's to mount the seat to the plywood. Use deck screws to attach the sides of the seat frame, there are holes where the sliding rack mounts, I used fender washers with the side mounting screws. Then use deck screws to attach 2x2's to the plywood - coming up through the base. play around with fore & aft center of balance to find the right location for easy tilting, if the base has that feature.

As far as the TV lounger, cut a plywood base that fits the bottom of the slide rack. Leave the slide rack on, it allows you to change the angle of the seat base.

Layout two arcs on 2x6 lumber, the arc should be as large as a rocking chair base. Cut the arcs, sand them smooth, then use screws to mount the rockers to the plywood base. If the arc of the rockers are not part of a true circle, the rocking motion will be compromised.

The position is very comfortable, the seats are low to the floor, recline back with your favorite popcorn & a movie...

If these directions seem muddy, I am distracted by typing with one hand - other hand is in a sling - fractured humerus...

Shifting the 4spd 242 should be fun monday am...

"Shifting the 4spd 242 should be fun monday am..."

If your left hand is injured, move the seat up and adjust the front so that

it's up higher. Steer with your knee while shifting, if needed. Sometimes I get caught coming up to a turn while holding a soda in one hand, so I'll turn the wheel as far as I can, hold it with my knee, and move my hand up the wheel a bit and finish the turn. If you have to shift with your left hand...good luck. Not so easy the last time I tried it.

I put front seats from a 240 in one of my attic bedrooms (vacant). I was storing them, but I have to admit it's kind of comfortable.

Could you post a picture of the converted chair? I have been curious how I could build a base.

Charles,

Just a thought, don`t forget that on these cars (700s) the seat belts are attached to the seats! Crash loads are transmitted to the seat runner mountings, which, safety considerations apart, may cause legal and insurance problems if modified. Also on a practical point the 700 seats have a large mushroom shaped peg in the middle of each runner which fits in a keyhole slot in the chassis to help retain the seat in an impact if the bolts break.

Colin.

Certainly. The seat belt wheels and attachments would have to be the 240 setup with the anchors at the floor and chassis points. I hate that mushroom thing it drives me nuts any time I need to remove the seat I like the 240 setup much better. I will probably have to dremel it off since the belts will not be anchored to the seats. I will do all the measure ments and post the dimensions of the two seats tomorrow, since I have the kids until 11:30PM when my wife gets home I won't have the time. I did some prelim width measurements end everything looks good as far as fitting the seats actually in the car. After I get the seats in the car the problem will remain how to run poer to the seats for the electronic adjuster. Was there a power seat option on the 240?

I asked the same question about 740 seats in a 240, somone responded that they were too big. Give it a whirl, anything's possible with a torch.

I disagree that they are too big. Maybe too tall but I will measure and let you know. It is a matter of the seat tracks. The 240 seat tracks unbolt and I don't think the 760 do. The seat adjustment box is another likely candidate for problems but it should just clear. I am unsure how to go about fitting the 240 tracks onto the 760. Who knows, though I bet someone has done it.

It is my understanding from a number of earlier posts asking the same question that the 740 seats are too wide. They won't fit between the center console and the door. Maybe you could measure and be sure.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

The tracks on the 240 seat are 15 inches apart and on the 760 they are 18 inches apart. The seats themselves are the same width however, with the seat controller on the 760 it becomes slightly wider. The trick will be to adapt the 18 inch width tracks to 18(safely). I really have no idea how to do this and if it will be possible. Any suggestions not requiring a torch are welcome. I really think this can be done with minor modifications and would be a welcome knowledge base since 240 seats are becoming non existant. Coupled with the decresing supply of good used 240 seats the 240 seats in the later years had the seat back foam seperation problem.

I can get decent 240 front seats for $15 each at a junkyard, and I got a pair of free tan vinyl seats a couple weeks ago. The late 80's 240s are probably showing up more in junkyards, so seats shouldn't be that hard to get. Of course black leather won't be as easy to get as something like blue cloth/velour, which seems to be more common, plus it lasts a long time.

I would think that you need to have someone weld the 240 seat sliders to the 700 series seat frame. Check to make sure that the 700 series seat won't be too tall either.

Good luck.

That's a great junkyard! Where are you located?

I'm in VA. That particular junk yard is located in Jessup, Maryland off I-95, between the beltway (I-495) and Baltimore. They have everything (American cars/trucks/vans, european cars/trucks, etc.)

Michael,

What pick-n-pull are you talking about? I live in the Columbia, MD area and I'm in desperate need of a great place to snag some 240 bits and pieces.

Thanks,

Tom

Crazy Ray's, 8125 Washington Blvd, Jessup, MD (301-621-1440 or 410-799-6630), open 7 days a week. The Volvo selection seems to fluctuate quite a bit. The first time I went there about 2 months ago, there was only one '86-'93 style 240 (already had the motor and front end pulled and was picked over pretty well). The most recent time I went, about 3 weeks ago, there was a few more newer 240s, and a couple of mid-'80s wagons were added as well (only one 240 Turbo on the lot, an '83 245). There were a few 740 Turbos, but I didn't see anything newer, and nothing other than Volvo 240, 260, 740, and 760. The selection isn't the greatest, but they are definitely cheap (I've got a price list if you want to know about anything specific). I know there are a couple of yards down in PG County that have a lot more Volvos (European cars only), but I've never been over that way (I think it's called Brandywine, but I'm not sure).

Coming from the south, I take exit 41a, then right at the first light (Washington Blvd), then about a half mile down on the left, so it's just off I95.

Thanks Michael!

I'll have to check it out. Do you have their price for alloy wheels, an AMM, turbo sway bars, or tachometer? I also need the plastic center console that goes around the emergency brake.

Thanks again, maybe we'll run into each other there some Saturday.

Wheel = $10

Wheel "Aluminum" = $20 + $10 core charge

Wheel "Rallye-Styled" = $20

Sway Bar = $10 (so $20 for a pair)

gauge = $5

They list a Map Sensor as being $10, and I thought that was the same as AMM, MAF sensor, etc. The parking brake cover shouldn't be more than $10 ("trim panel" is listed at $8&up).