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Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

posted by  someone claiming to be Chris Blunt on  Fri Oct 19 15:11 CST 2001 [RELATED]

My 1978 244 has been leaking brake fluid out of the junction box. It's that metal box mounted far below the MC that all the metal brake lines run in and out of. There's also an electrical connection on it for the brake failure light. The fluid is coming out around the center mounting bolt, not any of the metal lines themselves. I think there's been some kind of internal failure.

I have a new junction box on order. Replacement looks fairly straightforward, but neither Haynes nor even Bentley discuss how to replace this box. IPD says "leave this to the pros" in their catalog (and don't even sell the part). Frankly, though, where I live (middle of nowhere), I'm not sure I trust any "pros" to bleed the system as well as I can. Think the guys at the local shop know the Volvo caliper bleed screw sequence?

Anyone out there done this job? Any tips or encouragement? It looks really tight, disconnecting all those metal brake lines from such a small box. I'd appreciate the collective wisdom of the real pros...the guys on the Brickboard.







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    Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

    posted by  someone claiming to be Napoleon on  Fri Oct 19 15:29 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    I've done it. I guess the biggest hazard would be breaking a line or rounding off a fitting. Check them all to make sure that they will move before you start. It would be a bad thing to get half of them apart, then find that you need parts or technology to finish the job. PITA bleeding the system afterwards too, but didn't you need an excuse to change the fluid anyway? Better have some on hand...

    Usual cautions about jackstands, lift points etc. Eye contamination, cut fingers, blah blah blah.







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    Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

    posted by  someone claiming to be RR on  Fri Oct 19 15:27 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Hey Chris,

    I just finished this job on my 83 242 and it was pretty straightforward.I didnt use the manual,just common sense.

    I raised the car on jackstands and removed all of the fittings with closed or brake line wrenches.When reinstalling new junction just be careful not to crossthread the fittings.In fact,I left the junction unbolted to the chassis until all the fittings were handtight and then snug.

    Piece of cake.

    RR







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      Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

      posted by  someone claiming to be Chris Blunt on  Fri Oct 19 15:45 CST 2001 [RELATED]

      Great advice - thanks very much to both you and Napoleon. Never opened the metal lines on my Volvos before - should I be using a special wrench? I do have the special wrenches for the caliper bleed screws.

      Most maddening thing: I just replaced the master cylinder a few months ago, and must have bled a gallon of fluid through the system. Not looking forward to doing the whole bleed routine again, especially in late October. (Toying with the idea of doing the flexible brake lines while I'm at it.) Boy am I glad I invested in that power bleeder!







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        Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

        posted by  someone claiming to be Napoleon on  Fri Oct 19 16:20 CST 2001 [RELATED]

        I suppose that a tubing wrench would be ideal. Not too special, but there is a little more grip than with an open end. If the fittings are "in there good" it may be the best alternative to rounding one off.







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          Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

          posted by  someone claiming to be bob on  Fri Oct 19 17:47 CST 2001 [RELATED]

          One thing to add to all this good advice- wedge a stick or something between the seat and the brake pedal before you crack the lines. This will prevent the master from draining, and make bleeding a whole lot easier when your done. Disconect the battery or the brake light fuse to keep your taillights from melting.







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            Re: Replacing Brake Junction 200 1978

            posted by  someone claiming to be Keith Hendrickson on  Sat Oct 20 01:23 CST 2001 [RELATED]

            Hey Bob-----Clever tips!! Wish I'd thought of those!!

            Oh yes.....and my two cents' worth------Do get yourself some tubing wrenches......good ones because cheap ones flex too much. Use some PB Blaster or Deep Creep a few times in the day or two before the project.....And I have had good results with my trusty old propane torch. Just be careful with parts you may want to re-use....that junction block has meltable parts in it.

            Keith






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