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hesitates, coughs, sputters, stalls 200 86

posted by  someone claiming to be garyS-NJ on  Fri Aug 10 07:02 CST 2001 [RELATED]

Repost as I still have the problem.

my '86 240 had a problem with the idle sticking high intermittantly then it got very ratty (missing, popping....

carb cleaner to the butterfly, cleaned the air cleaner, & changed the fire trap & it's a lot better but the

intermittant high idle persisted. today isolated to the butterfly flap screws were loose & the butterfly plate

hanging up. tightened the plate up but nowe it stumbles when you accelerate.

any ideas??(I tried adjusting the plate from fully closed to a little open & it's not better..

A little more on my ongoing dilemma;

I did try to locate a vacuum leak with card cleaner & detected nothing. Seems my problem is intermittant & perhaps comes on when things are hot. certainly it rears

itself when the car is under load (hard acceleration or up hill). When it's acting up, I can cruise around if I'm easy on the throttle. Recently it got so bad going up a hill

(after I thought I fixed it by tightening up the throttle plate screws) that the car shut off. I sat & let it cool & later made it home. This past weekend, I changed the fuel

filter. I then took it around town & up hills & it seemed fine. went home for shower & change of clothes & getting back in car it re-appeared bad as ever.

Could under hood temperature affect a vacuume leak or the fuel pressure regulator or could my new fuel filter be clogged now. I'm suspecting the under hood

computer module intermittant. First I'll try positioning the throttle plate as previously posted but since this is intermittant, & grossly problematic, I don't think this is my problem.







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    Re: hesitates, coughs, sputters, stalls 200 86

    posted by  someone claiming to be Zee on  Mon Aug 13 20:39 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Seems you have possibly two problems:

    The adjustment of the throttle plate and TPS. Adjusted properly, with teh engine off and you working the throttle cable cam, you should hear the TPS click twice -- when you manually open and when you close the throttle plate. Adjustment of the TPD requires a 3mm allen wrench (long model is easier)

    and

    a bad connection ot the temp sender or the sender itself.

    OK, maybe three possiblities....

    With a VOM/multimeter, you can run diagnostic tests at the FI/ECU on the passeger side to determine any electrical signal faults or component failures.

    Vacuum leaks and a bad idelcontrol valve would be giving yo high/los idle of constantly high idle (like, 2500RPM)

    Report back







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    Re: hesitates, coughs, sputters, stalls 200 86

    posted by  someone claiming to be Dave on  Fri Aug 10 11:41 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Check and clean your battery connections. Also check and clean the fuse near the battery. I found poor battery connections can cause the intermitent problem. Also check alternator brushes. If the brushes are worn to the braid spikes occur in the power feed to the ECM.







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    Re: hesitates, coughs, sputters, stalls 200 86

    posted by  someone claiming to be David Hunter on  Fri Aug 10 10:11 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    You may have more than one problem. I think you need to set up the throttle body adjustments according to specs. It sound as if you may have "fiddled with it" and you will not be successfull solving any problems until this is set up correctly. This involves setting the home position of the throttle, adjustment of the TP switch position and then base idle speed adjustment. At this point if there are no faults the idle on that engine will be at 750 rpm and 900 with air on. This is controlled by the idle air motor NOT adjustment of the throttle body.

    Further diagnosis must assume that plugs, wires, rotor, cap etc are all in good condition, throttle body clean, no vacume leaks.

    Underhood or and engine temp can affect some problems.

    New fuel filter will not be clogged.

    What is the idle speed?

    Suggest you review the 700/900 FAQ section for lots of good information. Your engine is the same and for all practical purposes the information there is valid.

    Good Luck! Post results or questions.







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    emergency!! 200 86

    posted by  someone claiming to be garyS-NJ on  Fri Aug 10 09:11 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    come-on guys!! I need help with this as it's my only car & unless I figure it out tomorrow, I'll have to send it to (GULP) a mechanic!!







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      Re: emergency!! 200 86

      posted by  someone claiming to be Gambit... on  Fri Aug 10 09:35 CST 2001 [RELATED]

      When was the last time you changed plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor?

      Does it do it more/less in wey/dry weather?

      How does your wiring harness look in the engine bay?

      My thoughts are, it sounds electrical in nature but, that covers ALOT.

      Checked your pressure relief valve on the fuel rail?

      Got a cold-start injector? Is it leaking?

      I have had all these problems and most all exhibited your described symptoms.

      You might try spraying a little water on the plug wires while idling to see if the car dies indicating bad plug wires. Check the cap for carbon tracking and the rotor for burned spots. Could have a coil going bad, tap on it with a piece of wood or a rubber mallet and see if the engine misses. Could be CPU problems. Could even be a faulty ignition switch. Sounds as if the air-bypass might also be giving trouble (idling problems) or the throttle position switch is bad.

      Does it seem to miss on all cylinders or just one or two?

      Could be a bad injector or loose connections to the injectors.

      I have given you a LONG afternoon of stuff to check and even with this list, I am sure there are things I forgot to mention.

      Good luck.







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        Re: emergency!! 200 86

        posted by  someone claiming to be garyS-NJ on  Sat Aug 11 02:41 CST 2001 [RELATED]

        Reply:

        cap, rotor, wires only a few months old. propblem occurs dry & mostly when it's hot or run around for a little while. wires look like all old volvo wire with cracked sleeving (would be nice if I knew some specific DC voltages to check while manipulating specific wires (could temp sensor voltage to ECU cause my problem??)). Fuel pressure regulator recently replaced & I think that always fails with excessive fuel pressure to motor resulting in fuel in oil (also should run when you step on it also, couldn't be intermittant)). Injectors aren't leaking & haven't found a vacuume leak while spraying carb cleaner around suspect areas.

        will replace cap/rotor again & spray water on wires & check injector connections. Then install junckyard ECU & do your coil check (& get junkyard coil). I don't know what to do with ignition switch. wouldn't think Air bypass nor TPS could cause severity of my problem (when it gets bad, it can shut the engine down) but I'll replace the TPS (junkyard). can't tell where it misses but guessing all cylinders.

        The coil is really sounding suspect as is the pick-up in the distributor. Thanks for your help...







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          Re: emergency!! 200 86

          posted by  someone claiming to be garyS-NJ on  Tue Aug 14 01:51 CST 2001 [RELATED]

          I'm an idiot (kind-of). found a spread contact on the mass air sensor. Coil Spark was OK but coil had a loose connector (probably loosened up the last time it sent a gajillion volts down my arm thru my heart. I then looked under the car to verify fuel pump was running & observed a gas leak where I just replaced the fuel filter. Tightened up the gas leak & the connections & car is running fine again (will go back & adjust the throttle body plate but it's running good).

          Could have been the fuel filter & then persisted because of the leak or more likely the loose wire on the coil. Learned from brickboard that breaking up under load can be weak spark.

          Thanks All!






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