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Best Wax? RUST?(among other assorted questions) 200 1987

It's the end of summer, I've quit my summer job, and I'm about to begin my yearly maintenance week before I take the car back to school and resume my 9 month occupation as a drunk. I'm planning the usual work like staining my hands black with por-15, washing and waxing, and not so usual work like a new (to me) tach. So I have some various questions before my week of work. This summer i'm hoping that if i do things right the third time, maybe they'll last.

the first involves wax. In a previous thread, someone asked what the best wax was. I believe that the response was something from griot's garage. Is this the carnauba or best of show?

second question. i'm refinishing a set of used wheels courtesy of ebay. I bought the por15 stripper, which i hope to successfully use without dissolving my driveway, shoes, hands, etc. once the clear coat and paint are removed, does anyone have any advice for the next step? I was planning on polishing with wheel polish, a drill and a buffing wheel. Then washing the wheels off and clear coating the hell out of them. is this a proper procedure? any recommendations as to the brand of clear coat?

last thing. part of the yearly fix-up is a car wide rust hunt. depending on the level of my ambition, i might take out some of the interior to look for rust (as well as the usual time spent underneath the car). are there any problem spots that I should check? (i was thinking underneath the carpeting and maybe inside the doors.) i'm even looking for obscure spots that have little chance of seeing rust. . .if you've seen it rust, i want to know about it.








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    Re: Best Wax? RUST?(among other assorted questions) 200 1987

    Mike:

    Take a look at Car Care Specialties web site. They have lots of different manufacturers products with excellent comments on each. I would think that you would do best with Blitz One Grand Wax and prep with 3M Imperial hand glaze if required. The web site also has how-to articles. See the one on how to repair the finish on damaged wheels. They carry Wurth products that make the OEM paint for most European wheels.









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    Re: Best Wax? RUST?(among other assorted questions) 200 1987

    Hi Michael. I always use turtlewax or simoniz paste wax which are both available here in th UK. They both work very well but I find the turtlewax takes longer to dry out in the tin and, therefore, lasts a bit longer.

    You don't say what type of alloy wheels you have. If they are not too intricate then by all means buff 'em up on the drill and clearcote them to death. If they are a bit fiddly then then resparay them with silver/aluminium wheel paint (or whatever colour you fancy)and then clearcote them. This should restore them close to the original finish.

    Rust. OK, deep breath : Front chassis crossmember (under the radiator), floorpans (front and rear, inside and outside), sills, door bottoms, rear arches, inside the rear in the bottom corner of the seat near the rear arches, tailgate bottom, inside the boot (trunk) below the side windows, rear panel beneath the rear bumper, rear arches, around all windows. If you do start lifting carpets in the big rust hunt then take a valium first - you might lose the will to live! If you're really going for it don't forget wiper arms, exhaust and other ancilliary/cosmetic items that can corrode or rust.

    Good luck (with the car and school). Rich.








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      Re: Best Wax? RUST?(among other assorted questions) 200 1987

      just in case it makes a difference. . .the wheels are the 25 spoke (coronas?) with the small hubcaps. the hubcaps work but look like hell. definitely candidates for paint.








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        Re: Best Wax? RUST?(among other assorted questions) 200 1987

        Yep. 25 spokes sounds like a paint job - unless you want to attach your polishing mop to an electric toothbrush! Here in the UK I could have 4 wheels chemically stripped and repainted for about £100. If the price is comparable where you are it might be worth considering to save you a whole loada time. If you cant afford it the get the wheels as clean/smooth as you can, treat with filler primer, paint then clearcote. allow to dry and harden for a week or so (less if you live in the sun) and then get jiggy with the rubbing compound. Unless your wheels have been kerbed or otherwise damaged (as opposed to just corroded) a bit of time should give you a decent result. Enjoy!







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