Just eliminated all the possibilities and it has to be the blower that is the problem. No AC no Heat comin' out 'cept when I'm movin' and the air gets run through the vents and run ove the coils of heat or freon which ever the situation was callin for. So I called a Volvo repair shop and he says "Yup, just put one in today for $500". So, I run to the library to see if my alumni card will work at CSULB, and either the model year or the model didn't match my '88 240DL (I'm gonna borrow one from a friend, its a year or two different). I can get the blower for $42 and I already dismantled the dash to check on the potentiometer's contacts, cleaned them off and I eliminated another less costly possibility of fixin' this AC without doing THE BLOWER. I have heard it is the last job a volvo repair person wants to do, anyway.... I,m gonna give it a shot. I NEED SOME GOOD HOME ADVICE HERE...

1) I have read on a thread on this site that the blower can be taken out the gove compartment side of the dash instead of doing a frontal assault, is this true?

2) Anyone out there done a successful blower replacement?

3) Advice on a good, woth the money Volvo Repair Manual? (I see that the Bentley book is expensive so it should be comprehensive, but the chilton is more in my price range and he does a lot of repair manuals. The Chilton "70-"80 Volvo Repair Manual has a fair descript of the replacement procedure but I'm not sure my "88 would be gettin' fair treatment due to the 8 year time disparagy)

4) "help me if you can I'm fellin' a little lost here" But they didn't call me the midnight mechanic for nothin', but that was when I was doin' MCs. Appreciate some help.

He wrote up some instructions for the side thing. He could post them again, or I could. His choice.

Hey, aka wbain, or D. Foster,

Well, that just seems too good to be true, your wanting to post up some blower replacement instructions. That would be excellent. I have my dash pulled partway apart and I await your lifesaving instructions. I sent you an e-mail direct but got no reply, wasn't sure how to do this "board" thing but I guess this is going to work.

Please try to get that to me pretty soon please. Appreciate your jumpin" right in. Mail me at redraddar@linkline.com Thanks......

Copied from my files..................

In a 240, the blower motor can be replaced two ways -- the proper way, and with a chainsaw. If you'd prefer to do it correctly, that's wonderful, we're proud of you, and you were probably a great Eagle Scout.

Please tell us how you did it, and read no further.

But if you want to finish this week, my "chainsaw" way might be worth consideration. Other than the mess and ethics of a sloppy repair, the only disadvantage is a slight loss in efficiency in the left side air velocity.

1. Drop and remove the left and right felt kick panels and center console side panels.
   
   
2. Find your Dremel tool and install the smallest-diameter cutting or routing bit you have. Please wear safety glasses or a face shield for this procedure.
   
   
3. On the left side, mark out a rough cutting circle -- perhaps about 7"-8" in diameter, covering as much of the flat area as possible.
   
   
4. Scribe an alignment mark across this circle -- this will permit you to reinstall the plastic piece properly aligned.
   
   
5. Using the Dremel tool, cut out the circle and remove the plastic piece.
   
   
6. Moving to the right side, repeat this process -- be sure to scribe the alignment mark.
   
   
7. With a small pick, remove the clip locking the right impeller to the motor shaft. You must pry one end up, slide it sideways, lift it out, and slide the clip off the shaft so it can be removed. Be very careful -- those clips like to snap far, far away. They're worse than kids.
   
   
8. Reach in and pull the impeller off. Note that the right impeller is different from the left impeller. Mark the right impeller for future reference and proper reinstallation. (The right and left impellers look identical but have different angles to the blades -- one for clockwise rotation, one for counterclockwise. Don't mix 'em up.)
   
   
9. If the impeller feels stuck to the shaft, use a touch of oil on the shaft -- sometimes it helps to power-up the motor (low speed), while holding the impeller, and "spin" the shaft out from the impeller. If the motor's shot and won't run, spin it by twisting the other impeller or by holding the other shaft.
   
   
10. Do the same to the left impeller -- and again taking pains to hold onto the stupid clip.
    
    
11. Looking in the left side, note that there is a Venturi, or "throat". Also note that the motor has either three "ears" for mounting, or a round mounting flange.
    
    
12. Using the Dremel tool, either cut out the Venturi "throat" or cut three wide slots to accommodate the motor mounts -- whatever it takes to provide clearance so the motor can be removed.
    
    
13. Stuff a rag down the duct immediately under the motor nearest you on the left side, wrapping it around the baffle (you'll thank me later).
    
    
14. Remove the three Phillips screws securing the motor to the frame. Note one screw also secures the resistor bracket. I prefer using a magnetized screwdriver. A long Phillips screwdriver and set of "Chinese fingers" is very helpful. The rag in the duct will catch that screw you drop.
    
    
15. Go back to the right side. Observe the vacuum reservoir under the radio -- it's white or translucent plastic, and looks like three tennis balls joined in sequence. You may need to remove this reservoir. If so, there is a vacuum line connected at each end -- remove them.
    
    
16. Reach in with a long flat-blade screwdriver and pry open the bracket gripping the reservoir. You should be able to tug the reservoir out.
    
    
17. Under or near the reservoir is the ground lead for the blower motor. It's damned near impossible to remove unless you have small hands, an offset screwdriver or Chapman tool kit (right angle Phillips screwdriver), and a healthy inventory of persuasive words.
    
    
18. Pull back the center console switch cluster, find the red lead from the motor, unplug it, and attach a 10' "leader" to it (I use an old piece of wire).
    
    
19. Going back to the left side, reach in and push the resistor to the side. (If you decide to remove the resistor, then go back to the blower switch, unplug the resistor harness, and attach a similar "leader".)
    
    
20. Reaching in the left side, pull out the motor while carefully -- and patiently -- feeding the power wires up through the hole in the housing. Pay attention that your "leader" does not get pulled off the power wire.
    
    
21. Pull the motor out, unfasten the "leader", and secure it -- you'll need it later for pulling the power wire back in place.
    
    
22. Rebuild, repair, relube, or toss and replace the motor -- your decision.
    
    
23. If appropriate, remove, repair, or replace the resistor -- as needed -- by carefully pulling the power leads through and assuring the "leader" follows faithfully.
    
    
24. Fasten the "leader" to the wires of the new resistor, and carefully pull the wires back into place while repositioning the resistor.
    
    
25. Fasten the first "leader" wire to the motor power wire and carefully pull the leader back while inserting and repositioning the motor.
    
    
26. Using the "Chinese fingers" or a magnetized screwdriver, insert and tighten the three screws. Note that one screw also secures the resistor.
    
    
27. Try to reposition the rubber grommet (through which the power leads go) in the bottom of the heater housing. Attach the motor ground lead.
    
    
28. Pull the rag out of the left side duct inside the housing.
    
    
29. Reinstall and reconnect the vacuum reservoir. Don't bother tightening the bracket -- that reservoir will never fall out by itself.
    
    
30. Reinstall the right and left impellers, paying attention to which one goes to which side. While installing the clips, keep your finger over them -- they like to fly off into the sunset.
    
    
31. Reinstall the 7" diameter cutouts. The alignment marks are very helpful. You can duct tape them in, but you'll be doing it again in 3-6 months -- duct tape dries out.
    
    
32. I've had good luck temporarily "tacking" them in place with duct tape (3-4 locations) and using RTV to seal the gap. The next day, when the RTV has cured, I remove the duct tape and fill the spaces with RTV.
    
    
33. Forget about the "Venturi" -- it's gone.
    
    
34. Connect up the power wires and reassemble the center console.
    
    
35. Try the blower. Keep your eyes away from the vents -- there'll be a cloud of black plastic chips for the first minute. You'll need to vacuum the car.
    
    

Phil -

The $500 is probably $100 parts and 5 hours at $80 per hour. You know the aftermarket motor price. Double the hours and you'ssfigure that your labor is worth $40 an hour. That's asuming that the $500 could be used here and not for food, clothing, etc.

Get the Bentley manual if at all possible. The Haynes is a 2nd choice. The Chilton, I hear, is good for ballast weight, parrot cage paper, or as a booster pillow for a 3 year old. Not for DIY'ers. BTW, the 240 did not change much in this area for 1979 to 1988 (my years) and maybe not even to 1993.

There is another post here about replacing the motor and putting on new ball bearings, never to be replaced again.

Haynes may be available at AutoZone. There is some benefit in reading everything you can B4 starting a job.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)