Me again,

Gonna change front brake rotors tomorrow(weather permitting)and it looks pretty staight forward.I got the rotors, new pads, brake cleaner,caliper hardware and a good set of tools.I sprayed the caliper bolts with PB Blaster a day in advance.

Here is how I think it's done....

1. jack up car, remove wheel.

2. remove old pads.

3.clean calipers with brake cleaner.

4.unbolt caliper, hang out of way w/coathanger.

5. remove my old grooved rotors.

6.clean hubs.

7.install new rotors.

8.replace calipers,torque bolts to specs.

9.install new pads,anti-squeal backing plates, and hardware.

10. reinstall wheels,lower car, torque wheel bolts.

11.step on brake a few times to set pads.

12. Go for a test drive/stop.

13. go easy on the brakes for a while.

What am I forgeting, anything else I need to know?

Thanks as usual, Phil Stone

Replace the wheel locator pin with a 10mm bolt. It's a pain to heft the tire/wheel onto that stupid bolt which dowen's serve any purpose now that wheel balancing is computerized.

I haven't used backing plates for centuries. Either Volvo's synthetic disc brake grease or Permatex Disc Quiet on the backs of the pads is all I use to prevent squealing.

You need to press the caliper pistons back into there bores to assure free movement and to wet them again with brake fluid to prevent future corrosion. Sticking pistons is the single most reason we all experience rotor warpage.

Be patient while installing the second of the two anti-rattle spings on each side. I swear they seem to be shorter than the originals that I just took off the cr, because they always want to catch on the pins, instead of latching "above" them.

I use a small screw driver to press it tip of the spring down behind the pin so I can finish inserting the pin through the inside hole for it. (I install both pins through the outter pad, outter spring, inner pad then latch the inner spring on the lower pin. Finish inserting the lower pin. Use the screwdriver to force the upper tip of the inner spring deeper into the caliper to allow it to slip behing the upper pin as you finsh inserting it into the hole.

Carreful! That spring will fly off a couple of time until you get the hang ot this!

Phil,

You got everything necessary, but I'll add a couple more to make your life easier.

1. Buy a new hardware kit for each axle. Pins, clips, springs. Then you won't have to deal with rusted, bent or broken thingies that are impossible to find on a Sunday afternoon.

2. Coat the pins, backs of pads, and pad/caliper contact areas (ledges on the calipers that mate with the edges of the pad backing plate) with a little bit of lubricant. Syl-glide (spelling?) is made especially for this purpose, but wheel bearing grease should work. Don't get any on the pad surface or rotor!

3. Coat the face and edges of the hub, where it mates with the rotor, with anti-sieze. (This suggestion is from the instructions that come with ATE rotors)

Read the instructions that came with your pads and rotors. PBR and ATE specify a break in procedure, other brands may also do so.

Also, with ATE Power Discs (the atom-groovy rotors), don't remove the anit-corrosion coating. I don't know why, but that's what ATE says in big, red letters on their instructions. This doesn't apply to other brands. ATE's coating is dry and waxy, unlike the oily stuff on every other rotor I've seen.

I did mine for the first time last weekend. The only problem I had was that the rotors were frozen on the hubs due to rust. I used LOTS of PB Blaster and a big mallet to get them off.

Stupidly, I tried banging the first rotor off from the inside (the wheelwell) towards the outside -- it seemed logical to hit it in the direction it comes off. In addition to being awkward there is very little space to get a good swing of the mallet in. An hour later when this had gotten me nowhere I tried smacking it from the front and within a few minutes it popped right off. All the others came off after about 5 minutes of some serious wailing on them from the front. Beating them off probably isn't too good for the wheel bearings but...

Also, on the rears, look at the emergency brake assembly after you get the old rotor off. There was a big "lip" of rust in the drum and when I pulled the rotor off one of the brake pads was dislodged from the thin metal guides/clips and had to be put back in.

Hope this helps a little.

Inspect state of seals of calipers to assess future need for rebuild caliper (if seals are torn or punctured but calipers still ok for us)

Degrease new rotor and pads prior to installation with brake part cleaner

"Coppergrease" as much as you can without risking contamination of the rotor/pad. Will prevent rust/sieze and makes it easier to remove parts later.

Finally I found that using volvo brake pads, although three times the price, do give far better braking results with a lot lighter pedal pressure required. But you already have the parts....

Reg,

If you didn't get new caliper bolts with the rotors, use some locktite. Otherwise, you got everything.