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Turbo Life vs Turbo Boost 700 1987

I recently acquired a 4dr 1987 740 Turbo Intercooler with 155,000 from a friend. Many parts were recently replaced: water pump, timing belt, amm, pulley, new belts, complete tune-up, plug wires, in-tank pump, and complete exhaust.The car still has plenty of power and runs strong. The 4spd/od even works. I enjoy driving the car hard and getting into the turbo. Recently, I've noticed some faint blue/grey smoke whenever I get into the boost and yes, the car is consuming oil. There are no visible leaks, so I'm assuming that the oil is going through the turbo. My question is: shall I continue to enjoy this car the way it is until the turbo decides to go south for the winter or should I do something that will prevent it from a final exit. When and if this turbo goes, I plan on acquiring another unit from a wreck at the junk yard. This is strictly a commuter car for wo








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    Re: Turbo Life vs Turbo Boost 700 1987

    I want to thank both of you for your quick responses and advice. This is my 1st turbo Volvo, I have owned a series of 240 wagons and still have my 89.

    The last turbo I owned was an 88 Mazda 323GTX. At 40,000 Mazda couldn't figure out how to repair their own turbo. I will check the unit to see if it needs a rebuilt and if it does, it will get one. The hoses will also be inspected and replaced if necessary. I intend to begin using synthetic oil for the next oil change. I am aware that this will be interacting with 15 years worth of sludge. I've also read that Evans Cooling makes a water free anti-freeze that is highly compatable with Volvo Turbos. If you never heard of Evans, check out their sight at www.evanscooling.com Thanks again..Mark








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      Re: Turbo Life vs Turbo Boost 700 1987

      Think twics before using Evans. ALL water must be out of the system before you start using it. For daily driving, you cannot beat regular antifreeze .









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    Rebuild that turbo! 700 1987

    If you think you're capable, (i.e.- if you can replace a timing belt or something of similar difficulty) then a turbo rebuild kit and shaft balancing is only about $150. (I got mine at united turbo, there's lotsa places) Should only take you two evenings...

    As was also mentioned: pay some attention to the PCV system! Clean or replace the hoses, "Y" piece, and oil seprator, and the pressure on the oil seals will lessen.

    If you just drive it that way till it goes south, you risk ruining the turbo housings, and think of the oil residue that's now coating the inside of your new exhaust...

    -Paul Demeo

    1990 780T








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    Re: Turbo Life vs Turbo Boost 700 1987

    Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu. Look at the high mileage section. I have a 1986 with 278,000 miles and it's still going strong. The easiest way to check the turbo is to pull the inlet hose off and spin the turbo with your fingers, with the engine cold. Check for side to side and back and forth movement. If it's smooth and tight, you're OK. Excessive movement is the sign of a bad turbo. The inlet hose can become damaged at the bottom of the turbo inlet due to oil blowby from the engine. There is a small black box under the intake manifold which takes the blowby and seperates the oil droplets from the gasses. If this is not working properly due to oily buildup inside the box, excess oil will be sucked into the turbo. This will cause the inlet hose to become gooey. I recently replaced my oil seperator box. I expect my oil mileage to improve. There are other things you can do to improve the car's reliability. Resolder the fuel pump relay is first and foremost. Check the FAQ.

    Keep us posted on your car's health. We can be a great help to the 'newby'.








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