/// Rotors are only replaced when they cannot conform to specifications. Reread the first post. The minimum thickness is on the rotor, rear surface, at the joint of the lug nut cap (top hat) and the flat rotor surface. As long as the warping problem can be eliminated and leave at least that thickness the old rotors are ok.

I never turn or resurface rotors. I haven't had warpage except for damage from fluid contamination. I turned all six front rotors two at the time. (three cars)

Another statement on that site was that metalic brakes are steel wool in a resin binder. The final cure for the resin is the initial use on your car. Once that burn in finishes the sound may go away. (did you have a squeal?)

There is a brake ID plate on your car, usually in the trunk that states the factory installation of brake parts.

The symbol for Girling is a capitol "G" with a human forearm as the cross, the fist is gripping the rear curve of the "G". It would be cast some where on the caliper. In the older cars it is between the two input brake lines, about quarter size.

Many mechanics are not familiar with DOT 3 fluid contamination. He will have little to see if that is the problem. If the contamination was from topping the master cylinder, the front pads will be worn in the shape of a "V". If the entire system was filled with DOT 3 there will be NO UNEVEN WEAR. If the master cylinder is Girling and had DOT 3 contamination the fluid will be black with suspended rubber particles. Both Raybestos and Wagner make test strips to determine the DOT rating and approximate water content. They are $20 for 25 strips. Raybestos part number is RTS25 H2O test strips. REMEMBER... this only applies with Girling parts and there were two other choices for your car (?), check the archive.

Your note of the recent tire purchase would make uneven torquing the most likely problem, check that first.