Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 2/2003 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Wiper Motor Replacement 200 85

Any shadetree's out there with tips for replacing the wiper motor? I needs all the info I can gets before I tackle this minor inconvenience.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Re: Wiper Motor Replacement 200 85

    Chip --

    Nothing to it. Drop the passenger side kick pad.

    Locate the wiper motor shaft, remove the center nut (or bolt) -- 10mm wrench -- and pull off the small crank arm. (You may need to first pop off the linkage -- small clip, it's off.)

    Under the hood, unplug the harness from the motor. Remove three bolts. Pull the motor out, away from the putty gunky stuff sticking it to the firewall.

    Done.

    When you reinstall, glop in the gooey gunky crap. Plumbers' putty works. Keeps the mice from crawling through.









  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Noisy Wiper Motor/ Worm dive 200 85

    Chip,

    I was about to post the same.

    either my worm drive or motor is noisy (sounds like a bearing), but not sure which.

    Anyone got ideas on how to determine which it is before I spend money? I partly pulled the wormdrive apart, but could not get the cog out to see if it is a bearing underneath the cog that is noisy. Anyone know how to get this out?

    CHeers,

    JOhn

    btw the wipers still work okay, just very noisy.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Re: Wiper Motor Replacement 200 85

    Pop the glovebox, disconnect the linkage behind it.

    Disconnect the wiring harness on the motor and unbolt it. When you pull it out, there's a lot of goo in the hole to seal it up. The new motor should have some of that, whether it came with it or you supply it. Keeps the water out of the car.

    One good thing to do is to put a ground strap on the new motor. There is a ground on one of the bolt holes. You'll see it from the underside of the motor once it's out. Put a ring or spade terminal on that and run a wire to a chassis ground somewhere else (to the ground strap of the valve cover, to the strut tower, anywhere convenient.

    If the motor hasn't fallen apart inside (common), it probably died from a bad ground. That is OFTEN the case with 240s, as the ground corrodes after time.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Re: Wiper Motor Replacement 200 85

    If your motor is loud, you can rebuild it. Usually the magnets comes apart and can be reglued with expoy.

    Otherwise removal is simple. You need to disconnect the wiper link from the inside. Remove the glovebox (6 screws) and remove nut that connects the motor to the wiper link.

    As far as removing the motor, if you plan on rebuilding it, NOTE ALL MARKS. Mark the location of the plastic wheel to the motor link ect.

    And lube it up, it run like new.

    Thanks to Dave, http://www.homestead.com/volvo2, has good pics and directions on the site.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Re: Wiper Motor Replacement 200 85

      I had the same experience. My motor was very loud. One of the magnets had come unglued and was rubbing on the armature. I used JB-Weld to refasten it, cleaned and lubed everything and reinstalled. The motor needed a new ground so I ran a wire from under one of the bolts holding the motor case together to the place where the engine ground strap connects to the body. The motor now runs fine.

      However I had two problems. First, it was hard to line up the linkage with the motor shaft (when you see it, you'll know what I mean). It took two of us, one to slightly turn rhe wiper arm while the other pushed the linkage onto the shft when the shaft and linkage lined up. I did this once by myself but it took a lot of trial and error. With two, it took only a few seconds.

      The second prolem is with a water leak I created. The motor shaft goes through a rubber grommet in the firewall to reach the linkage connection. When I installed the motor, I pushed out this grommet and had to pull out the motor and reinsert the grommet. I must have broken the seal around the edges of the grommet because there is a water leak there but not around the shaft. I plan to try to reseal the grommet with some silicone as soon as things dry out. I might have prevented this leak if I had lubed the motor shaft so it would slide through the grommet more easily.

      A very satisfying DIY job considering the cost of a new or rebuilt motor!







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.