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need to pass smog, do I replace the air mass meter, O2 sensor, or both? 200 1983



Here in Portland, OR, cars must pass an emissions test done under load on a dynanometer. My car, after replacing plugs, air filter, and changing the oil, came up high in hydrocarbons. It was within limits on NOx - the mechanic I called suggested this implied that the catalytic converter is functioning properly - and barely within limits on CO.

Anyhow, as this car has taken its share of abuse in its 180K miles, I am not in a hurry to dump another $1K (I'll explain momentarily) into a car valued at less than that by, say, half. Two years ago, in order to pass the emissions test, I had to pay for the removal and replacement of the O2 sensor (it was fused onto the exhaust manifold and required hours of service to be drilled out, two shops concurred with this diagnosis) and the leaded fuel fill pipe restrictor (requiring the removal of the gas tank, this may not have been required, but neither mechanic could determine this with certainty).

I feel that the motor is probably in decent shape, though at 180K a soon to be performed compression test would confirm this.

The mechanic told me that the O2 sensor currently installed is "sluggish", but I hesitate to replace it if in fact it is the air mass meter that is to blame. Obviously, I can't expect a "satisfaction guaranteed" answer to my question, but

1) is it likely that the O2 sensor would go bad in 2 years time?

2) is there a way that I can reduce the cost of replacement of the air mass meter from the quoted $550 by doing it myself?

In both cases, it would be nice if I could further diagnose the problem and any parts acquired from junkers, etc., before investing any more money.

Thanks for your help,

Victor Weinstein








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    Re: need to pass smog, do I replace the air mass meter, O2 sensor, or both? 200 1983

    Victor,

    Call me. I live out in Sandy-not too far from Portland. I have an 84 that needs to go through DEQ right now also. As far as swapping out an air mass meter, email me and we can work something out. I'll show you how to do it. It is very simple.

    Rick Sleeper








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      Re: need to pass smog, do I replace the air mass meter, O2 sensor, or both? 200 1983

      Hello Rick,

      While your helping Victor it will probably pass without needing a AMM

      or O2 sensor. You need to finish the tune up by replacing the plug

      wires and the distributor cap and rotor. Even if the wires look OK. If

      they are more than 4 years old they may be whats causing this. It is

      very unlikely that the O2 sensor is bad after 2 years. Of course it

      would be a good idea to check the timing and at least retension the

      timing belt. And don't forget the air filter which if clogged or

      very dirty makes your engine rich causing high CO and hydrocarbons.

      In other words make sure of the basics before you start spending on

      AMM. Have a nice holiday.

      Dave 82 242ti








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        Re: need to pass smog, do I replace the air mass meter, O2 sensor, or both? 200 1983


        Good advice. However, I have replaced the plugs, wires, and air filter, and the cap/rotor have only 2 years and about 5K on them. Also, I am not totally convinced that the air mass meter is the solution, so Rick Sleeper's offer to let me borrow his would be a nice luxury; if this makes a noticeable difference and allows me to pass emissions, that would help to justify the replacement cost.

        I believe that the thermostat may be bad. Given that the air mass meter and the rest of the Jetronic sensitive are sensitive to coolant and air temperature, might this also be part of the problem? The ambient temperatures at the time of testing have been in the 60-80 F range, so this would seem to be a moot point if the car had been driven 5 or more minutes.

        Does the air mass meter slowly deteriorate over time? Apparently, it also has a failure mode that severely disables the car (i.e. you can limp home, but that's about it). I read a service manual which describe how to diagnose the condition of the AMM, but it seemed far too general to distinguish other than "working" or "failed"; the test consisted of asserting that battery voltage was present at 2 of pins on the connector to the meter.

        Thanks,

        Victor Weinstein







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