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David -
The tensioning system is designed to make the belt tight but not to have constant pressure on it. When you loosen the nut, the spring may move a tiny amount, the tnesion is then proper, and the nut should be tightened after that. In fact, you have a rubber plug in the timing belt cover so this re-tensioning can be easily done between belt changes.
That being said, you must compress that spring about 1/4 inch or until you can see a hole through the pin that's in the center of the spring. I always use a long thin nail to hold the tension. To compress the spring I have used a large pair of channellock pliers set wide open. There are other ways and tools, maybe another post will have one.
BTW, the timing belt change is a great time to do other things "while you're in there".. Change all the belts, change the rubber mounts on the power steering pump (takes 4) and alternator (takes 3), change the tensioner unit. Replace the seals on the cam shaft, intermediate shaft and front main bearing. Have a good look at the wiring harness that wraps below the front of the engine. That's a long list, but the labor to change the timing belt will have to be re-done for most all things on that list.
Are you using a manual? The Haynes can be helpful for your model year.
Good Luck,
Bob :>)
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