My 83 has about 174,000 miles on it so I don't expect it to ride like a new car, but even with new Boge's and new trailing arm and torque rod bushings it rides like sh*t.

Is there anything that I can do about it, or is that just the way the car is? It's really obnoxious on rough roads, which we have a lot of in California...

Thanks,

Jim

1) Modern Pickups have a much more jiggly ride in the rear when unloaded.

2) I have owned mine since new and bet what you are experiencing is suspension components wearing out. I would keep replacing with stock equipment. If you go for the "handling improvement" products, expect a harsher ride. The "handling improvement" products will help you in the corners but not over the bumps. The OEM 240 ride was firm but not harsh, would almost be considered soft by today's standards.

3) You may be able to improve the "feel" of the car with some mechanical replacements. I recently replaced the ball joints, rear tranny bushing, center driveline bearing with rubber mount, engine mounts, tranny mount. Those parts cost less than $100 and made a huge difference in the "feel" driving the car. Mine felt truck like before, and european car like after.

4) Did you replace "Boge" with Automatics or Turbo Gas. I have heard using the Turbo Gas shocks in the rear of a 240 can result in a harsher ride. The Automatics were OEM.

5) If it bothers you too much trade for a 740/940. The 740/940 series has the same drivetrain but more sophisticated "feel".

Just stumbled into this site. Glad that I did. Reading this thread, I can now understand why my 240GL rides like (or worse than) a truck :-). Yes it feels a lot better when loaded with 4/5 people or things in the boot...but very bumpy with only me at the wheel.

I understand that some mechanical replacement will improve ride a bit. I wonder:

i. How often do we need to change the suspension system?

ii. Do we change the spring or the struts or both?

iii. What sort of spring/struts do we use.. gas/hydraulic?

thanks...

Contact the guys at ipdusa.com they are the suspension experts and should be able to help fix your problems. I dont know if they ship international but worth a try.

You ought to ride in my 1972 Chevrolet Cheyenne with 3/4 ton springs. Even trucks these days don't ride like that. My grandfather knew what he wanted when he ordered that truck.

Can one even order a truck anymore? I've heard it's pretty much take the closest to what you want & deal with it. I'll stick with my newest vehicle being 18 years old--I'm an aging stubborn redneck & don't have to impress anyone but myself. TB

Tires do have something to do with it too. Lower profiles do ride harsher ...

Blossom I ('79 245, all OEM setup, 75 series tires) rode great. Buttercup, still with original bushings, a leaking strut, cheap-sh*t Gabriels in the back, and cheap 70-series tires, rides like crap. Yet another reason why I'm selling her ...

If it weren't for everything that's squeaking (various), rattling (interior), whining (the BW35 in action), and booming (needs more insulation)in the 144, that'd be the best ride of my bunch. The ride is smooth for even the crappiest of streets I travel to/fro work every day ... and that's a lot of rough roads.

-- Kane ... with 165 tires, though, handling is a whole other issue ...

Jim,

My Volvo is my truck; Let me explain.

I have a roof rack that I made myself and it can take 500 pounds(and more). The hitch which is a OEM also pull sometime a heavy load. I also use it as a car for most of the time.

Once I bought almost new shocks(rear) at the bone yard. These were the roughest ride I ever had. I took these shocks back and went with Volvo brand. I also had a bad experience with Gabriel(gas) front shock absorbers which also had to be removed. I never bothered since to experiment with other brands as I don't like to double pay.

I suggest you to look at this first in order to get the best compromise about how soft a ride you want and the level of firmness you are able to compromise with.

Roland,

"...The hitch which is a OEM also pull sometime a heavy load. "

What do you define as a heavy load? How does it handle it? Is your motor a B23E? How well does it stop? What is your mileage? Is it an auto or a manual? If auto, do you have a trans cooler? How far to you tow, in what terrain?

I want to tow a boat (16ft cuddy cabin aluminium), and would like to know someone elses experience with towing heavy loads. Same model, wagon, auto /w odrive, 266 000km

Regards,

John

I have done a lot of towing with 240 wagons, up to 3500lb max but with no more than 250lb on the tow hitch. Put a scale under the hitch of your tralor and check it. Do not use O/D and check your tire pressures. Stability is fine, one of my wagons had the air adjustable shocks from Monroe which limited rear end sag while towing. Currently I tow with a 245Ti, it has the smaller 2.1 engine but with a turbo and intercooler which provides a little more grunt on the steep hills. I tow a twin axle box trailor 17ft long, 8ft high that carries 4 racing motorcycles and equipment. I recommend an addittional cooler for the transmission and maybe a cooler thermostat if you are in a warmer climate. I see no problems at all towing the boat that you describe.

John,

I have pulled a medium sized Uhaul from new brunswick to Ontario (about 1000 miles) with my 740 (It has more power than your 240 but in reality the towing ability is similar as your engine's torque come on at a lower RPM) In anycase I think I was close to the 3000 lbs limit, what I found was that the car would not go over 60 Mph, and it used aproximately twice the amount of gas as it does without the trailer. The car survived just fine, but it is not something I would want to do frequently. If you are going to tow frequently definately get the transmission and oil coolers (prevention is better than letting something overheat) and as was mentioned do not used the overdrive while towing (it even says this in the owner's manual I believe). Don't expect great performance, but the car will handle a trailer up to the maximum weight. Good luck

John,

My car is a 240-1982 with B21A(carb) engine and manual transmission(M-46).

By heavy load I mean 2000 pounds over short distance(30 km) at 70 km/hr. I did tow once more than 1500 pounds for 250 km at 80-90 km/hr. It could pull more than 2000 pounds but my trailer does not have electric brakes and it could be unsafe. Here it is flat land so I can see that 2500 pounds could be too much weight climing hills.

Never use overdrive when pulling something whether; it may ruin the transmission before it shows. I also do transmission oil change and filter cleaning at 80k kilometers.

I don't recall the 240's riding that bad, they are a bit firmer than the 700's but not that far off. I would consider checking your springs after 174,000 miles and 18 years they may need to be replaced to restore the ride to as good as possible, it will never feel like a soft floaty american car, it should feel firm but not really harsh.

Firm to say the least but I'm hooked.

I drove the '85 Toyota P.U. SR-5 to the dump yesterday and was amazed how quiet and smooth the ride was. Actually cornered OK.

240's need help, but once helped are nice. Get the bars, ALL the bars.

My 1990 rides a lot better than my dads 94 S10 or my friends 99 Ranger. Most European cars have a "firm" ride, hop in a Passat sometime and see what I mean. The Volvo is that really with more chassis flex.

Who are we kidding here. These classic bricks are trucks with car bodies and roll cages built in. I don't mind at all. I think the roads in California are much better than what they have when I go back to Ohio on vacation

I agree. I live in NYC where the potholes are big, deep and plentiful! Friends of mine with low ground clearance Honda, Acura, VW, Audi, etc are always soooo traumatized by manhole covers or other obstacles left sticking up out of the roadway (watch that oil pan!). My old brick seems to ride right over them...

Actually, I was under the impression they were tractors. I've a '75 242 I fire up to move things around the property--fenceposts, bags of fertilizer, ammonium nitrate (I didn't type that out loud, did I?), deer we've shot, etc. Amazingly, these things can be used on the road as well.

TB: '83 244GL (200k+)/ '77 Grand Prix(200,343)/ '72 Cheyenne(127k)/ '75 242(who looks? It runs). TB

We have two 240's. My daughter's '84 244 rides nicely, corners feel controlled and the ride isn't bouncy. My '86 246 rides badly. It has a hard ride and feels bouncy on a rough road. It improved when I put in new rear trailing arm bushings but it still doesn't feel as smooth as the '84. It does corner with little lean. My son has an '88 245 which seems much softer sprung than my '86 245. I can't explain any of these differences except that the part number for 245 rear springs is different than for the 244 sedan.

Actually, proper maintainance and service (and ALWAYS making sure your suspension components are in good condition), and never forget to "retorque" your front and rear suspension at least every 10,000 miles. My Volvo, rides like the Queen that she is. Of course, smoother on heavier loads.

MOE

1993 Volvo 240

103,000 miles (and all New York City miles)

My 86 240 (214,000mi.) rides pretty good. I've been driving it for 9 years and I must be used to it. I think it's a great handling car and cruises great on the highway...which is 80% of my driving. It sucks on washboard dirt roads but not too many vehicles are really that good on that type of stuff anyways. I'd rather comprimise a little on the CUSHY ride and have the 6 point roll cage and Volvo safety!!!

Just my view.

Jack W

What's the deal? Buy a Caddy or Lincoln if you want a ride that wont shake up grandma to much. It your 240 is set up right then it rides 'firm' and handles very well. My '83 245Ti with quality shocks, bushings, tires and a strut brace will out handle any wagon on the road. I will take a firm ride any day when I have to make an emergency lane change out on the freeway. Take your shocks off all together, that will losen it up.

Yes it does and it is annoying at times. I dont think that it can get any better bump wise but i have heard that you can get the body flex 'n roll out with some braces and other things. But a good point was made, the more weight that the rear has the fewer "jumps" the rear takes on rough road. And yes I've got 173800 on mine so I know exactly what you are talking about.

where in atlanta are you?? i work in buckhead and live up 75N.

I live in Powder Springs and work on P'tree Down town. Roger, remember I was the one who recomended the U-Pull-It in Norcross.

you're right. i'm sorry......one of my big problems is having a severe problem remembering names unless i know you personally. it did hit me that you name did seem familiar...now i know why.

enjoy.

NT

Most trucks are not as bad as the 240. Mine (Boge Turbo Gas, blah blah blah) rides like crap too. The rear cargo coils are not smooth unless I hvae 300# of stuff in the rear end. Then it is happy.

The car's suspension seems geared towards heavier loads. That really cleans up the act. Harder REAR shocks help a lot with the jumpy feeling and make the car feel tighter.

Also, although I haven't tried it yet, I've heard that the chassis braces and the center strut tower brace help a lot. The 240 chassis flexes a LOT over rough pavement.

Chris,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Noticed that in your SIG you list a 940...does it ride any better, or is the suspension setup about the same?

The 940 is a LOT better, because of more sophisticated front suspension. The 240 has such simplistic front suspension that it can't keep up with the "modern" crappy roads!

The rear susp. on both cars is very similar and you can't get past that shaking feeling over big bumps. Live rear axle prohibits that.

Don't get me wrong... the 240 is a great car, but it needs a stiffer chassis and very expensive shocks to ride reasonably well. I put up with a crappy ride because the 240 is such a good car, in so many other respects. Tradeoffs...hehee.

Chris,

Yeah, that's what I figured.

From what I understand, the 240 suspension dates back to about the mid '60s (or earlier) and isn't much different than what you will find on 120/140 cars.

Actually the front suspension is completely different, the 120/140 used upper / lower control arms and coil springs with shocks, the 200 series uses Macpherson struts. The rear suspension is similar (though not identical) to the 140. the same basic design is continued with updates in the 700/900 series (without IRS)

My '83 244GL rides like a Brick: good & stiff. I run it hard at times, but I doubt I've ever lifted a rear inside wheel. I'm pretty sure I'd've felt it if I did. Bricks SHOULD ride stiff; how else are you supposed to whip 'em around? If you want comfort, buy a Crown Vic or an Acurasaki. Volvos are made to drive, not recline in. TB

Mine did, that is when i had one. 240's ride a lot like a truck, the only saving grace is that the steering feel is very good. I dunno, but mine felt much more trucklike than my Jeep, which definitely feels like a truck now that my other car is a saab. Part of the truck feel may be the visual effect of the long flat hood. mmmmm. As long as your suspension is tight that is probably as good as it will get.