Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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advice for new 245 owner 200 1985

Hello all! I just got myself a 1985 245 GL with 78,000 miles, B230F, AW70 A/T. A friend of mine bought it new from Camden, NJ and stored it for 3 years in San Francisco. He then shipped it to the Philippines in 1988. Another friend bought it in 1992 and finally, I bought it last month for $4,000 USD. I just had a really nice body/ paint job by the previous owner The car runs fine and I haven't seen any problems yet, except some rumbling from what I suspect to be the front brakes when i brake at 60 kph and below. The CAM steering rack has recently been changed. I bought 4 new tires, 185/70-14 on alloys. We don't have any parts suppliers here because the local Volvo dealer only opened shop 2 years ago so they only stock parts for new models. This means I have to stock the fast moving parts myself. The following are my questions:

1)which parts break down most often, which should I stock?

2)what is the procedure for cleaning/ servicing the "flame trap", what parts do I need?

3)how do I watch out for potential problems associated with "air mass sensor" etc.?

4)what are all the parts needed for the timing belt change..belt, tensioner, seals, gasket?

5)what special tools are needed for changing suspension bushings?

6)the 3rd seat rattles and I realised there was no lock/ latch. where can I get this lock?

I recently bought ipd bushings, braces, bilsteins etc and brake rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, eng/trans mounts, filters (oil/fuel/air),tune up kits, water pump. what else do I need? Thanks a lot guys!...Julio








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Re: advice for new 245 owner 200 1985

Get an AMM off Ebay ($50) to have on hand! You will eventually need it. One morning it will just refuse to start and run and you will shut off the ignition and then unplug the AAM harness to find the car idles well. That's it then, AMM time.

Also a fuel pump relay or two and an OD relay. Forget worrying about the ECU (511 or 544) though, as they are not a problem. Do look over the wire harness and think about that. The flame trap is easy to clean once you get good at locating it and replacing the hose down there under the intake. For the timing belt, get a tensioner, and two front crank seals and four of the smaller seals as you will ruin a couple getting them in right. Or remove the seal housing and get the paper gasket to replace it once you have set the seals in place.

Also get a set of brushes and regulator for your alternator. And get some accessory bushings for the mounts for the ps pump and alternator.

For suspension bushings you really need a 12 ton press and the TAB tool (@$200) which probably only pays if you have 2 or 3 cars to do. All other bushings should be replaced only if there is clear evidence they are failing. Probably torque rod bushings go first after rear TABS, but front trailer arm and panhard rod, I wouldn't bother.








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