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Oil on water pump, another question 200 89

posted by  someone claiming to be carl krall on  Tue Dec 5 13:11 CST 2000 [RELATED]

I was out there rolling around on the cold ground anyway (exhaust came apart right before the front muffler), so I thought I'd take the cam belt cover off and trace the oil leak. There was no oil coming from behind the pulley that I could see.

It looks like it's coming from somewhere around where the water pump meets the engine on top of the pump, but there's no trail, maybe because of heat. The other thing I noticed is that when the engine is running the water pump is making the typical "Fat Lady is singing" noises. So I'm going to replace it anyway.

My question: do Volvo water pumps have lots of lube in them? Could this just be escaped lube from a bad bearing? I've replaced a few water pumps over the years (beer cases make good gasket material in a pinch, btw), but never saw one hemorraging oil before.

In any case, I'm going to go find a replacement tomorrow and put it on. Anything tricky/different doing about a 230 water pump, other than paying $100 for one?







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    Re: Oil on water pump, another question 200 89

    posted by  someone claiming to be Charlie on  Tue Dec 5 14:22 CST 2000 [RELATED]

    As Randy said, don't pay 100 for a pump.

    The oil is coming from either the valve cover gasket...is tends to weep first at the hump in front. Or the cam seal (behind the timing belt cam gear ) is another source.

    When doing the water pump - the solid heater return line than runs along the engine under the exhaust manifold has a bolt that holds its bracket to to the block - down between #3 and 4 exh. Take out the bolt and free the pipe- this helps you get it seated and sealed on the new pump. After you've got the pump on then re attach the bracket bolt.

    Leaks from this pipe where it goes into the pump are then avoided. Also make sure you clean the end of the pipe well before putting on the new rubber seal. spray some silicone into the pump here so that the seal slips in all the way and dosen't pinch or roll.







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    Re: Oil on water pump, another question 200 89

    posted by  someone claiming to be Randy Starkie on  Tue Dec 5 13:23 CST 2000 [RELATED]

    >Anything tricky/different doing about a 230 water pump, other than paying >$100 for one?

    $100 is way too much for a waterpump for that car. You should be able to get a new GMB (not rebuilt) for under $40. Nothing tricky about them other than being careful not to pinch the rubber ring on the heater pipe and getting a good seal between the pump and the head. A little silicone on the rubber ring acts as a lubricant as well as a sealer. A coating of silicone on the face of the rubber seal between the pump and the head also insures a good seal. Allow it to sit after assembly long enough for the silicone to cure before adding coolant and bringing up to temperature. You will see that several of the bolt holes are oblong. This allows you to apply pressure with a hammer handle (or some other lever) to insure a good seal between the head and the pump. Continue to apply this pressure as you tighten the other fasteners.

    Randy






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