Hello,

This weekend was quite productive. Not only did I change out my motor mounts but also I put in a new set of bilstein struts, ball joints, and control arm bushings. The bushings are quite a chore to remove. But now my frontend feels incredible! I was planning on changing out the tierod ends, but didn't because I encoutered a situation with which someone maybe able to help me with. As I removed the rubber boot on the steering rack power steering fluid poured out. Now I do loose a bit of powersteering fluid, but not an incredible amount. Is there a seal that can be replaced or is a new rack and pinon steering rack necessary? What is a good aftermarket source for a steering rack?

While I was installing my Bilsteins I encountered some problems with the fit of the rubber stopper that goes on top of the strut. The diameter of the Bilstein strut is quite larger than stock and the rubber stopper would not fit over the shaft. I was able to modify the rubber stopper by enlarging the center hole. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Scott

Scott,

The rubber bumpers are not needed with the Bilstein strut cartridges. I forget where I read that, it might have been on the small instruction sheet that came with the strut cartridges. Something about internal bump stops on the Bils, hence no need for external ones.

I'm going to put new bushings on my 84 240...would you provide me with tips/how tos on getting the old bushings out of the control arm and getting the new ones in. I've done a lot of DIY work on Volvos and BMWs and have access to a lot of tools (except a press...I hope this isn't a problem when replacing the bushings). Thanks!

Mike Hale

84 240 243,725mi

Hi Mike,

I'll be honest, the front-most control arm bushing is a pain to remove. Even with my press I was unable to remove this bushing. The angle of the control arm makes it difficult to get direct pressure over the bushing. What I ended up doing was torching the old bushing out and air chiseled out the outter sleave to the bushing to remove it. I had a friend who had the air compressor and chisel. With these tools it made made it a breeze. I was a little concerned about preforming such radical surgury, but I could think of no other means to remove this very stubborn bushing. Replacing the bushing was much easier. After lightly sanding the inside of the control arm and throughly cleaning the outside sleeve of the new bushing I lubercated the outside of the bushing with some WD-40 and with just a large socket and a bench vise I was able to press the new bushing in. The rear-most control arm bushing is quite easy to remove a few blows with a hammer removed this bushing for me. Really I have not had the opportunity to use my press although I did try for the front-most bushings. Hope this helps. Its is so worth it in the end.

scott

Mike, you absolutely need a press!! and the larger bushings that attach to the bracket that comes off the lower firewall are tough. If you have Pnumatic chisel it helps get those out. make sure you the means to pressing it in striaght before cutting them out.

It's really not that much fun.

Scott,

I have been following your messages and wondered how it went this weekend. I'm a novice repairman myself, and am trying to screw up the courage to tackle pretty much the same repair work that you've begun.

Anyway I am in the process of reading, re-reading and thinking about suspension repair. Your post made me remember something from Bentley:

720-6 Springs & Shocks:

Note: "The rubber bump stop, installed over the strut inside the coil spring, is not used with Volvo gas-charged cartridges."

If your car was not originally equipped with gas-shocks, then perhaps the rubber stop is not necessary? Please understand, I am quoting from Bentley and do not know for certain that you can dispense with this part.

I appreciate how you've reported your process and progress. You're an inspiration to me restoring my ride. Good Luck!!!

I just rebuilt my front end completely, Bilsteins, tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings and a rebuilt steering rack (Jorgen - $194). I bought a 6-ton press at Harbor Freight ($65), and it was no help on the front bushings (I got them pressed in and out at a local suspension place for $20), but it was the THING for the rear bushings.

Don't reuse the rubber bumper if you are installing Bilsteins. If you have a BIG vise, you can R&R the front bushings that way, using some big sockets as press adaptors.

Hank Auderer, formerly Hank wrote:

> I just rebuilt my front end completely, Bilsteins, tie rod ends, ball

> joints, bushings and a rebuilt steering rack (Jorgen - $194). I

> bought a 6-ton press at Harbor Freight ($65), and it was no help on

> the front bushings

Hi, Hank. Thanks for posting your experiences on this - I'm rebuilding the suspension on both of my cars in stages. I've done shocks/struts on both, ball joints and tire rod ends on one, bushings are next.

What was the problem with the press for the front bushings? Was it the odd shape of the control arm, or 6-ton just isn't strong enough?

My wife bought me a BIG vise for Christmas - it's the biggest one Sears sells, it's been on sale recently for $49.99. I figure I can always clamp small things in a big vise, but I can't clamp big things in a small vise.

Yeah, the front control arm is constructed so you can't get it under any regular press I've seen. But a big vice may work.