Dear Bricksters,

I really don't get it, recently I changed the seals on my distributor (including the one in the middle-that requires you to knock out the drive pin) and it's still leaking (B230FT)...I checked it and found the one in the middle (Thank God) is dry! and the oil is leaking out of the O rings...I tried clear silicone (I only let it sit for 30 minutes) and it still leaks once in a while...what's going on here? should I try silicone again and let it sit longer or something else-I mean-is the silicone really good as a seal (it's good up to 400 degrees) and how much should I put (I put a really thin film)? Is there something else up there that can leak besides the distributor? I changed the valve cover gasket and used that brown gasket sealer stuff and it's high and dry (I even retorqued the valve cover gasket just to be safe)...so I'm assuming it's either the distirbutor o' rings or something else...Could 1 bar (14.7 psi) of boost be the factor in the leakes?

BTW-since I'm at it-I recently checked the Cap and Rotor-and I don't really see much carbon deposits though the cap and rotor is 20000 miles old...should I still replace it at the 30000mile mark?

Any help would be appreciated-thanks...

Frank

O-rings are designed to seal with no gasket goop. Gasket goop could even interfere with proper seal of the o-ring. O-rings are made of pliable, high temperature synthetic rubber compound. In higher pressure applications the o-ring acually distorts under the pressure to seal even better. If you choose to replace the outer o-ring again, use motor oil to insure that it slides easliy into the ring in the distributor base. Make sure there are no twists in the o-ring. Lubricate the o-ring with engine oil, or vaseline, when you install the distributor. If the gasket goop you used on the o-ring keeps it from moving, you could be contributing to the problem. I was a jet hydraulic mechanic in the service, and I have replace hundreds of o-rings. The only time they leak is when they are worn and hard, have a twist in them, or are cut at installation. I have had trouble on one of our cars with the valve cover not making contact with the gasket where it passes over the cam bearing hump at the distributor end. A little careful flat filing to remove material at that end of the valve cover took care of it.

Flame trap clean? No crankcase ventilation problems?

Frank:

Having the same problem. Am not sure if the aftermarket seal (ipd) is faulty or the shaft is worn. This is also on a 90 740 Turbo. My next step is to replace the base, although all I could get is a base with the Hall Effect unit in it. That will cause no problem as it wont be connected.

Hope someone has a good solution. Dont think the turbo boost has anything to do with it.

dick

Did you see the post in June regarding distributor seals? It was great. Honda part number 91205-KFO-003 is a direct replacement for the shaft seal which Volvo does not sell. When I got prices from RPR on new distributors, the one without the Hall effect (yes, your car with LH 2.4) was more expensive than the one with Hall effect (LH 2.2). If you need a used base and shaft, contact me off line. I have one from a 1990 740T.

I have a dual crankcase ventilation system,

and the PCV is clean on both...