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bad airflow meter or ecu?? 700 88

'88 740 turbo volvo w/ b230ft engine

I've had it for a year now with no significant problems.I have had to replace to

alternater,and that's about it.I have put about 50k miles on it this past year.My

problem is this,I was driving on a trip down south with my wife and daughter,about 4

hours into it,the engine just dies completely.Now,it has done this in the past a couple

of times,all we have to do is wait 20 mins or so,and the thing starts back up with no

problems and runs without fail.This time it didn't .I ended up towing it to a shop,where

the little mechanic seemed somewhat knowledgeable.He thought it was either the

ECU(computer) or the Mass Air Flow Meter.Upon my return to the shop the next

morning,he had the car running,he said he did somwething to the inerts of the mass air

flow meter(he had the plate on top pulled off) But I didn't see anything

appearant.Well,when I pulled it out of his lot,with acceleration,the engine coughed.I

noticed,when the turbo boost gauge needle was in the yellow(positive pressure)the

engine started to sputter.When i returned home with the vehicle,I drove it around the

neighbor hood,as lond as i kept the acceleration low,with the boost gauge needle

below the yellow,then the car run pretty good,when i got boost,thats when the car

would start to sputter.Hopefully that's not coincedental.I am an aircraft mechanic by

trade so I know the princeples of the engines and I also own a 240 of which I do all

the work myself(I'm liking its non-turbo engine alot more).

Anyways,anything you can tell me,would be much appreciated..Also,don't know if this

is related,but when I first turn the car on,the voltage is always low,even when I had the

original alternater.In the cold,I would have to wait up to 10 mins before thelights

would work on the dashboard,the running lights would come on,but the dash would

be blank with the bright light signal light up only(the running lights would be normal

though).

mike thorjusen









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    Re: bad airflow meter or ecu?? 700 88

    my first guess would be the car is starving for fuel i would take a pressure reading off the fuel line to determine if the fuel pump is up to specs and that the filter is not partialy clogged








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    Re: bad airflow meter or ecu?? 700 88

    Yours sounds easy.

    The original, intermittant problem sounds like that classic failing fuel pump relay. Due to heat and vibration, the solder joints on the relay board fracture and open after heating up. It can be repaired by unplugging it from the fuse/relay block (it's the rectangular white one) snapping the cover off, and resoldering all the points where the relay terminals meet the PC board with a 25-50 watt iron. Or you could purchase a replacement and pop it in.

    The service monkey mislocated or damaged one of the intake hoses downstream of the turbo, which includes every hose other than the one from the AMM to the turbo intake. The poor connection (or tear) is leaking air pressure under boost conditions only. Since some of the air measured by the AMM is not reaching the cylinders, where fuel was metered based on the AMM, the result is an over-rich mixture...almost bordering on flooding. I'm guessing the car runs OK in the negative pressure zone of the turbo guage.

    Look especially at the clamping points that the hose ends are PROPERLY seated beneath each clamp and for tears where 3rd nipples are bonded to any hose - this doesn't apply if you have the Mitsubishi turbo.








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      Re: bad airflow meter or ecu?? 700 88

      Also check the hose to the wastegate actuator. If it is broken or disconected, the car will overboost. When it overboosts, the injectors are cut out till the boost drops. If you stay on the throttle, car will accelerate rapidly to overboost then start bucking or chuging.







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