Ok, this is kind of weird, and I feel a little silly for even asking. The fact is that I'm not too sure what year my car is. When I bought it, the guy told me it's an '83 and the pink slip confirmed it. However, the owner's manual is an '82 240 manual. I didn't think much of this discrepency at first until I got insurance for it. The insurance place took down the VIN and said it's an '82. Even some of the repair reciepts stated '82 as the model year. Could it be that my car is an '83 model but built in '82? I still have the original owner's purchase papers and noticed that it was bought in 12/82. Anyhow, this issue came to my attention when I was shopping for some tune-up stuff for my car today. Eighty-two and '83 have some different parts I noticed.

By the way, thanks for all the advice. It's being put to use. While I'm still here, what size spark plug socket do I use. Is it 3/16 (?). And are Fram oil filters good? I remember reading somewhere that it's just as good as the OEM and that a few Volvo places use them. Thanks.

If I remember correctly there's a decal on the inside of the driver's side door near the lock mechanism that states the month and the year(it was built, I assume). I've always looked that up so my Volvos have birthdays (for lack of an exact date always on the first of the month). My current one's is April Fools Day, makes sense, when I think back to the first 4 months we spent together (oil crisis etc). My "March 1971" was a mystery too, because whenever we ordered parts for that 71 Volvo they wouldn't fit - parts for a 68 Volvo fit, though. Never investigated it. I'd be interested to know what you find out...

Rules of thumb: Without known anything about the VIN structure, which eventually became standardized between manufacturers during the '80s.

Volvo, like all the other car manufacturers, release their "new" models during late September. Those cars are generally produced during the early part of that month. So, by using the PRODUCTION date, one can assume that any vehicle manufactured during Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec was built as the following chronological year model.

Due to different levels of change between years, there is no rule for judging how long the factory must close at year's end to gear up for the next year's models.

The other guide, for late '70s models and newer, is to see what model year the emissions label states in the engine compartment.

From an old IPD release for identifing years:

Station Wagon models: 245

Year: Chassis#

75 1-

76 54710-

77 115350-

78 163835-

79 211325-

80 264755-

81 317940-

82 368310-

83 434460-

84 506270-

85 592000-

86 660380-

87 718700-

88 766600

89 809000-

90 846100-

91

Look on the white decal under the hood, left inner fender. It should state the year.

The '83 model cars were certainly built in '82, and into '83.

The '83 models (for the US market only) switched from the heavy aluminum "10-mph" bumpers found on the '82s to the black plastic "5-mph, thank you Ronnie Reagan" bumpers.

"...Is it 3/16 (?)"

Ummm, no. 13/16", perhaps.

"...And are Fram oil filters good?"

Absolutely, positively NOT. They are the orange kiss of death. They suck. They are total garbage. (Later I'll tell you how I really feel.)

You can buy a tray of (10) Mann filters for under $40, and they are the same as original Volvo (Mann makes Volvo filters).

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Don-I certainly don't want either of my 740's to suffer the orange kiss of death. What was your experience? More than curious!

Brad --

Fram filters are either missing, or have a substandard flow-back check valve. That means that when the engine is shut off and oil pressure stops, the oil in the delivery system can slowly drain to the sump. When you start your engine the next morning, the pump must refill the filter and passages, so that the engine runs for 5-10 seconds with no oil in critical locations, such as bearings, cam, lifters, and so on.

I used to hear my engine "tap-tap" 'til the oil light went out.

Now, using Mann filters, the light is out in under a second. No "tap-tap" (except for the piston slap in my '91 740).

Also, Fram filters are reputed to have inferior and less filtering media (element) than the Volvo/Mann filter.

Other filters are, I'm sure, equally good to the OEM filter. But avoid the Fram.

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

13/16ths. Fram is ok, Mann or oem volvo is probably the best. Look at the tenth digit of the serial number-A=1980,B=1981, C=1982,D=1983 etc. For future reference, an I is not used, its always a 1, same for 0, and they never use Q as it looks too much like a 0.

I would recommend Volvo oil filter. They have a check valve that keep your oil from draining back into the sump after shut off and supposingly help with lubrication during startup. I get mine for at the Volvo dealer for about 6 bucks, and I think the Frams may be a couple bucks cheaper,but it will cost you in the long run.

My insurance papers for my '62 544were returned to me when I got the policy for it because of an "error" on my VIN #.

They couldn't believe it was 393464. Am I the only one on this board who has their VIN# memorized? Pretty scary.

"Am I the only one on this board who has their VIN# memorized?"

No way! YV1AX8848H1228060 rolls right off my tongue when I have my car in for service.