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Stupid brake repair tricks 200

4 sets pads and one new rotor on the '86 today...

Bent the pins, broke the springs, and trashed the little pin clips on the Girlings up front. AutoZone offered me 2 options - "hardware kit" and "caliper pins". I got 'em both. A "hardware kit" contains 4 anti-rattle springs and 4 little clips. 2 "caliper pins" have a total of 4 pins and, you guessed it, 4 clips. So I guess I now have 4 spare clips until next time. That is, if I can find 'em next time I need 'em :)

On the ATE rears, I could not for the life of me remember how I seated the pins last time. I couldn't find a good way at 'em. Here's a little trick I developed:

There is an attachment to the caliper that lives aft of the caliper itself. This becomes the fulcrum for the 1/2" cold chisel I had handy. I set the chisel edge against the pin, and used a hammer on the far end of the chisel, pounding inward (that is, towards the diff). Seated those little buggers like a charm!

Anybody got a better plan I can use for next time - or is that as good as it gets?

Evan








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    Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

    Hi, Evan. Just did the rear brake pads on my '90 yesterday.

    Always order the hardware kit along with the brake pads - you never know what will break or fly off to an alternate universe until you get in there.

    To reinstall the pins on the ATE rear calipers, I use my hammer - but not in the usual way. I press them in with the claw end of my 20 oz. straight claw hammer. As you did, I used the little attachment aft of the caliper as the fulcrum. No hammering needed, the handle is plenty long enough to provide sufficient force. Be careful of the bleeder valve when doing the top pin.








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    Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

    Have you tried the elegant approach? Tap it in using a long pool cue from under the other side of the car. Ladies' aid is optional. You must call the pins before you hit them. One foot has to stay on the shop floor at all times. ... Actually I use the hammer, giant plier and/or crowbar methods -whichever tool is handiest.

    One tool I really do like for caliper pin removal is a spring loaded nail set punch (Stanley makes a proper one, but the bargain bin variety will do fine). Sits squarely over the end of the pin so you can strike it without it shifting and accidentally dimpling the caliper. The punch drives nicely into the hole, just enough to pop the pin free. One embarassing moment I was demonstrating this method on a Girling brake (the kind with the hairpin clip pin retainer). I managed to drive the pin out real nice, but it took a little more effort than normal. Needless to say the clip didn't survive.









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    Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

    Evan, on the rear pins I just use a pin punch, about 5 mm in diameter, along with a whack from a hard mallet. Works like a champ. The trick is seating the rubber seal, which tends to cause the pin to bounce outwards until it finally seats.








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      Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

      Steve and Evan:

      I have used a pair of very large "waterpump" pliers (Crescent 12-inch, I think) to press the pins in. The advantage it offers over the hamer method is control - I am absolutely pathetic with a hammer.








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        Re: brake repair tricks 200

        Hey, that's what I did, too. The big squeeze. But on some 240 cars it didn't seem as bad...so when I got to looking, it's all in where the spring coils end up....seems if the lower coil tang is not parallel with the axle the coil ends up in the way more or less...








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      Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

      Gosh, Steve, short of removing the rear springs, I couldn't get a shot at that pin with a punch on a bet.








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        Re: Stupid brake repair tricks 200

        Yeah, but all my experiences are on 740s. The 240 has a different layout in the rear.







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