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PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200

Take advice from my misfortune and perform a thorough inspection and cleaning of the integrated mudflaps/body trim on your wagon or sedan.

For years I believed this design would eliminate the body cancer so prevelent on pre-86 models which have the mudflaps hanging about 6' behind the wheel arch, leaving the lower body panel exposed to stone chips.

In that regard, yes, the paint is protected.

Consequently, I never knew any periodic maintenance of the area above and behind the flaps is necessary.

But rust through is *LIKELY* if you don't clean out the dirt and stones accumulating up on top of the newer mudflap.

There are many chambers and crevices up there formed by the moulded flaps and body trim panels. Some are there to provide drainage from this hidden area, as I mention below. But they clog.

Behind the flap there are two slots, about the size of a large screw driver, located on the front center of the plastic trim panel the curves down to integrate with the mudflap. These are the drain slots of the body trim panel.

Make sure your poke a screwdriver up into each one to dislodge built up storne and dirt. On my '86 wagon, I got a duspan full of dirt the poured out of each side.

If you, too, get such a discharge, I'd bet you have a ton more still up there.

My advice: remove the mudflap for positive inspection and cleanout of the body trim panel. Also check for rust on the lower compound curve of the body at the front of the spare tire holds.

The mudflaps are held by a one plastic rivit top enter. You'll need to replace with new rivits. Next, two 8mm bolts and washers are removed from the mid-body of the flap. Finally, the inside edge of the flap is help inplace by a large metal clip that fastens to a body seam flange near the frame.

Be sure to also check for rust under this clamp, as well.

If any of your undercoating is cracked and crazed, inspect and probe for scale, loosness, and underlying rust. If rust is found, you'll need to remove the undercoating and repair the metal. I find Corroless anti-rust paint a good choice, because it likes to hold fast to rust that has been scratched clean with a wire brush. Recoat with a rubberized undercoating.

To remove the undercoating, I find a propane torch kit with a wide angle head will soften the material for easy scraping with a 1' putty knife. (maybe Santa will give me a Heat Gun for Xmas!!!) After you get the heavy mass off, use a low-fuming oven cleaner to help clean off the residue still sticking to the good paint surrounding your rust problems. Eastwood Company sells "Under Gone" which claims to remove undercoating. I disagree. But it does help clean up the area after the heaviest of the coating is gone. (It smells like oven cleaner, hence that recommendation)

My hope is you will have discovered your rust while it is still surface rust, and not have to cope with the insidious cancer affecting my car.








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    Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 86

    Can you expand a little more about the plastic rivet that holds the flap on. Is it a dealer only part or a more generic device? How does ti work? Any special tool needed to install a new one?

    TIA,

    Andrew








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      Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 86

      Looking from the front of the car you can see the rivit top center. Looks like a 1/2' diameter button.

      It just pushes through the sheet metal behind the flap. However, I found that the leading tip that is inserted through the flap/sheet metal flattens and distorts when I tried to push it out from behind.

      And when I tried to pry it out from under the flap, the facing ring just snepped off.

      Dealer part, probably.








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        Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 86

        These rivets can be drilled out and replaced with push in plastic plugs 3/8 i think. bob








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    Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! (good stuff) 200 86

    Yes indeed GREAT advice. I rarely wash my car but every couple weeks I blast those spots out and poke at them with plastic tools...

    When I first got the wagon I cleaned it super well and coated with POR-15 Black, even the wheel arch sheet metal - looks pretty cool in black.








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    Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 87

    Zee, et. al.:

    To this excellent advice, let me also add that if you've ever had a "wet carpet incident" (from either leaks along the firewall area or a clogged A/C evaporator drain), remove your front seats and center console, pull up the carpets and floor pads, and have good close look at that asphaltic insulation material that is applied to the floors. It soaks up water like a sponge and retains it for a good long time. In my '87 245, long enough for rust to form UNDERNEATH this material in all four positions (passenger and driver's side, front and rear) that it was applied. Most of this rust is surficial and I'll treat with a wire brush, metal prep and POR-15, but there are several small places where it has rusted through and must be patched. So, be advised! This is also probably a good thing to check if you're buying a used 240. If the PO or dealer won't let you pull up the carpets to inspect the floors, you probably don't want the car!








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      Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 87

      What do you do to remove this material before making the necesary repairs?

      I found it breaks off easily from rusted metal, but will stop a putty knife inits tracks where the good metal starts.

      Someone (Paul Seminara?) had suggested using a twisted wire cup, but I haven't tried it yet.








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        Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 87

        Zee:

        I'm using a good old fashioned hammer and chisel, safety goggles of course, and a dust mask. Thought about trying to grind it off, but I'm sure this material contains asbestos (most similar stuff does) and I don't own a respirator. It's taken me about a week of evenings after supper to get it all off. The worst parts are in the front outer corners, as you can't position yourself comfortably to reach them.








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          Re: PLEASE maintain your Mudflaps! 200 87

          > The worst parts are in the front

          > outer corners, as you can't position yourself comfortably to reach

          > them.

          I find the worst part is the inner fender where the lower seam forms with the outer skin. I could see the rust from inside the cargo whells (spare tire wells on the sedans), and hoped it was just surface rust from water leaking into the cargo/trunk area.

          No luck.

          When I pulled the mudflaps, what metal was still there was being held together by the body seam material!

          These are compound curves and tricky to replicate. I use a cardboard (some use art matte boars, wetted) to form the size and curves needed. Then I form the sheet metal patch according to this template. rivit the thing in and puttty it up, undercoat, etc.







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