If the clutch doesn't disengage but the linkage works OK,

I recommend the "lurch" method of disengagement.

It is easy enough (if a bit traumatic) and it sure beats

pulling the engine or tranny, which are the alternatives.

Here's how it goes:

Warm the engine up in neutral. Then shut it down. It's best

if you are in a fairly clear area and don't have to back up.

(you can back up if you aren't afraid to.) Put the car in first gear,

hold the clutch pedal down and start the engine, which will put the

car in motion. Holding the clutch down, alternately tromp the

gas and the brake. Usually it will let go on about the third or

fourth lurch and you'll roll to a stop. Normal operation will make

a slight sound as the clutch engages for a short while until the

rust and disk residue wear off the flywheel and pressure plate.

This operation has saved me LOTS of time and trouble on several

occasions on cars that have been in storage and the only ill effects

are embarrassment in case someone is watching. (Usually they roll on

the ground in laughter.)

Paula;

Don has made a very good, comprehensive list to which I would just like to add some notes about the brake system: Make certain the emergency brake works BEFORE your shake-down/test drive (jack up rear and check both sides-adjust as necessary). Since the hydraulic brakes are of a single system type, any hydraulic sys line failure due to rust will mean NO brakes whatsoever...so the e-brake needs to be available and working well!...

it would be a shame to damage or loose the car due to a brake failure with no back-up e-brake...thats the reason I like the silicon fluid conversion so much...5 years of storage is NOTHING to an oldie so equipped! The clutch master cylinder is even still full!

Would you guys please make up your mind and finish counting!

See you on the road!

Paula --

A B18.

The gas is probably stale. More on that later.

The battery is probably shot. Replace and charge.

The carbs will probably need to be cleaned and lubed.

Remove the plugs and squirt a teaspoon or two of clean oil into each cylinder. Inspect the plugs—if clean, reuse. Otherwise replace.

Replace distributor cap, rotor, points, plug wires unless they have few miles.

Fan belt now or soon.

Crank the engine — you might need to "prime" it with a bit of clean, fresh fuel in the carbs.

When it starts, watch to be sure it develops oil pressure within a few seconds—if not, shut it down IMMEDIATELY. If no oil pressure, call in a Volvo-savvy mechanic.

When it starts, expect a cloud of smoke (from the oil in the cylinders). It should clear in a minute or two.

Check under the engine for leaks.

After if warms up, run the RPM up and down a bit, let it run 10-15 minutes, then shut it down and dump the oil and filter. Use a Volvo ot Mann filter, if possible.

With fresh oil, drive it carefully and slowly around the neighborhood. After an hour or two of running, consider changing the antifreeze (to renew the antirust properties).

You might notice that the engine pings or runs poorly (stale gas). Fill the tank with hi-octane to compensate.

After 5 years, the brakes might be rusty, the calipers frozen, and the master cylinder defective or bypassing. Also the steel lines and flex hoses might be bad. This is something a qualified Volvo-savvy mechanic should check for you.

Examine the gas tank for evidence of pinhole leaks. They'll form from internal condensation over the years, and this occurs at the fluid level of the gasoline in the tank.

It's possible the fuel line from the tank to the pump (on the engine) has rusted through.

Change the fuel and air filter (and look for rodents living in the air cleaner housing). Clean the crankcase ventilation system.

Obviously, before driving the car, confirm that the tireas are sound and at correct pressure.

If it's a standard transmission, be sure the clutch disengages properly. The hydraulics might be frozen, and the clutch disc might be rusted to the flywheel.

After a good drive, check the differential housing for evidence of weeping. As with the gas tank, the stamped steel cover can develop rust pinholes.

After several days of driving, carefully examine the engine for evidence of leaks at the front and rear of the crankshaft. That engine used felt seals, which are normally prone to a bit of seepage. But degradation during 5 years of non use might permit greater leaking.

Also keep an eye on the radiator for leaks, and watch the water pump for leaks. That water pump might begin to growl if the bearings are failing.

Good luck!

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)