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Best parts for good B20 (one piece at a time) 1973

I want to build up a nice B20 type motor.

A buddy of mine has engine parts from 1963 through 1975. Say if I

wanted to make myself a good solid B20?

Are different cranks better than others? I know there is a difference

between the metric and standard crankshafts, but otherwise do some have

larger stroke or are some known to be weaker than others? Any suggestions

about which block to use? I'll try to use later front and rear seals

with the neoprine.

I'm reminded of the johnny cash song about a 57 58 59 60 61 ford...

thanks,

chris








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Re: Best parts for good B20 (one piece at a time) 1973

I prefer the 6-bolt crank and I would probably say that later

is better but condition makes at least as much difference as age.

My 122 wagon has a 75 8-bolt block (all I could get at the time)

with about a 70 6-bolt crank and rods (what I had) and it works OK.

The biggest differences are in the heads. My conclusion is that

except for thickness and compression ratio, all B20 E and F heads

are about alike and you can mill the F head to the E compression

ratio. They all have sort of a hump in the intake port that can

be ground down to improve flow somewhat with loss of turbulence.

I don't recommend polishing and have never felt the need for double

valve springs even though I am frequently a lead-footed driver.

I rarely float my valves with standard springs and retainers.

I'm using an IPD 7001 cam which I really like. I use IPD lifters

which are really OEM Chevrolet lifters that require a special pushrod

to be used in the B20. IPD only guarantees their cams if you use

their lifters. In my opinion that is wise because I have had several

cams eaten up by bad OEM Volvo lifters. (Others have had better

results.)

I have used both HS6 and HIF6 carbs and if properly set up they are

fine. (I have even used a pair of HD8 carbs but have since changed

back when I blew up the engine by passing an aircleaner mounting nut

into #2 cylinder. That's why I had to find another block.)I use the

aluminum manifold and FI exhaust manifold. Because of difference in

flange thickness you have to make some half-washers to get the manifold

bolts to tighten correctly. It all looks quite normal when you get

it bolted up. A lot of folks recommend the 75 240 distributor and

electronic ignition system and I would get one if I could find one.







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