With help from this board, I successfully replaced the Trans Overdrive relay in my 940. Now my radio is dead. The security light is on indicating power, but there is no "Eeee - Enter Code" message...

Anyone know what to do...??

/// There are three possible sources of power to any radio. The lights controled through the dimmer, the memory which is always on and not controled by the ignition switch and the main power through the ignition switch. There also may be a second fuse in that power wire behind the radio. If all power is disconnected you get the theft code. To prevent this hook up a second battery through the cig lighter. (nine volt) Do not disconnect the memory when checking the main fuse behind the radio.

I have never found a radio without that second fuse but anything is possible. If the radio is on and the battery is even briefly connected backwards the transistor junctions in the radio will be destroyed. I have no idea if the security light would still be on in that event.

You may have knocked out the radio fuse. There are two fuses involved - one has constant battery power and is obviously good, or the light wouldn't flash. The other, is connected through the ignition switch and, if open/missing would prevent switched power going to the radio as if the key were not turned on. That's just the symptom you'd get if that happened.

you need to punch a 4 digit security code into radio. hopefully the code is listed with your ownership literature. if not, a volvo dealer can look it up by pulling your radio and looking at serial number.

Thanks for your relpy. As I indicated in my original post, the "Eee" is not displayed, therefore this is not a code error, which can be fixed as you discribed.

-Question: -do you have a voltmeter?

This is critical to diagnosis if it's not a fuse.

...(you did check the fuses, right??!!?)

Thanks for your reply !

Sure do..and sure did....Would I get the security lite though if the

fuse was blown..?? And why just because I poking in the fuse box?

Ed,

As I think someone else suggested, there are 2 primary power lines. One is permanently on, and prevents the "Gimme a code" scenario. -since it is also live with no ignition, it is used to drive the "security" light. -As can be deduced from the above, this one is almost certainly fine.

The second is the switched live. This goes live in the "accessory" and "ignition on" positions (...and usually goes low again in the "cranking" position) -If this isn't going high, the radio would think that it can't be turned on, since it thinks the key isn't in the ignition. -thus it would always give you the security light also.

-I Hope this is making sense so far.

If you like, or if you haven't yet determined the fix (sorry, -I've been away for a few days-) I have the color code from our 1995 940. I can tell you which wires are which. -assuming your car's color scheme is similar!

If you like you can check with the voltmeter. -just pick a ground for the negative test probe (-I normally hook onto some clean metal somewhere around the passenger door hinge, and sit in the passenger seat with the meter in my lap-) and using the positive test probe, look for two lives with the headlights *OFF* and the key in the "ignition ON" or "accessory" positions. If you find two, one should go off when you turn the key to "off" and remove it.

I say turn the headlights off, because otherwise there's a third wire that dims the illumination, and that'll confuse things. -It's not quite as described by a previous poster... -in fact it pulses very rapidly between zero & twelve volts. The brighter you have the dimmer control set, the more time the pulses spend high, the darker you have it set, the more time they spend negative. -This is called "pulse-width-modulation" (or PWM for short.) An analog voltmeter (one with a needle that swings across a scale) will behave a little like a lightbulb, and will show a proportional voltage, but if you have a digital voltmeter, many of these try to read the 'peak' which is always 12 volts (nominal) some others take instantaneous snapshots, and will flick randomly from zero to twelve.. hence, it's much less confusing to just turn the lights off, which removes the potential confusion.

-I like to use an oscilloscope, since this shows this clearly, (as well as looking mighty impressive!!!) but a test meter is all you need as long as you know what yu're looking for.

If this doesn't get it for you, write back... -I love a challenge!

Keith Andrews

Ed,

As promised, here is the color code as per our 1995 940.

First, here's the primary loudspeaker wiring colors, they're on one connector:

Left Front (Orange/Black = +) (Orange/Green = -)

Right Front (Orange/Blue = +) (Orange/White = -)

Left Rear (Pink/Brown = +) (Pink/Blue = -)

Right Rear (Pink/Black = +) (pink/White = -)

The second connector is a little larger, and has the power, etc.

On the upper of the two rows:

Front Dash left Tweeter + (Brown/White)

Front Dash left Tweeter - (Brown)

Antenna power (Green/Gray)

Permanent Live (Red/Green)

(unidentified) (Yellow/White)

Ground (Black)

On the lower of the two rows:

Front Dash Right Tweeter + (Red/Gray)

Front Dash Right Tweeter - (Gray)

Illumination (White)

Dimmer (Blue)

Permanent live (Red)

Switched live (Orange)

Ground (Black)

If this is confusing, reply, and I can sketch it all out for you.

Keith Andrews