I am trying to change my idiot light pressure sender to one for an oil pressure gauge. I figure you have to move the alternator to get at the old one, which I have done, but I don't have a wrench that will fit the sender. Can anybody tell me what size wrench I need to buy? Also the new sender has to terminals, one for the idiot light one for the gauge. Can anyone identify them, I think one is marked g. I have also read that the gauge sender does not fit without adaptors. Is this true. There seems to be just enough space for it, although it looks tight.

This must be the 10 jillionth time I have posted this...try searching the archives for once...

For the last time....

Installing a Volvo VDO Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge

This is for 1990 240 DL B-230 but B-19/21/23 are similar and diffs will be noted.

Parts Needed - Volvo 1394754-4 Oil Pressure Gauge kit - 5 Bar type

Volvo 1259730-8 Plastic cover bezel

Tools Needed - Wire Stripper/Crimper

Socket set - Metric

Open End wrenches - Metric

Torx Wrench set

Std. Screwdriver

10/12mm Crowfoot Wrench

If your Volvo is a baseline DL model, like mine, or you just don't trust the idiot light, you can install an Oil Pressure Gauge in one of the two openings in the dash. They are under the two square plastic covers to the right of the speedo cluster. The choices are either the Volvo OEM gauge or an aftermarket unit. I chose the OEM Volvo which is made by VDO (but they can't sell it to you), but there are a number of very good units from Sun, Autometer, Smith, etc. My choice was based on keeping everything looking factory correct, and the fact that all the parts were included except for the cover bezel for the dash opening.

1) Start with a cold engine ! You will be working right next to the exhaust manifold and 2nd degree burns are no joke ! Park the car in the work spot the night before you plan to do the installation.

2)Disconnect the battery ! You will be moving the Alternator, splicing into +12 wiring, and hooking up to fuse box-so take the time and do it safely !

3)Open hood, lay a fender cover or blanket on right fender.

B-230- Remove the pre heat hose, the big silver sucker, and put it down as low as possible to gain room.

B-19/21/23 - Not a must do option.

4) B-230 - Loosen lock screw on Alt. bracket adjustment bolt. Use 10mm socket to loosen Alt. bracket adjustment bolt. Back it off as much as possible until you can move Alt. towards engine-up and inward- and remove the two belts from the pulley. Check Alt. wiring and if it's brittle or burned disconnect it and fold it back, if it's OK it can be left connected.

B-19/21/23 - Ignore this as location of sender is higher on block than B-230 .

5)Swing Alt. down and away from engine. You might want to put a towel or rag under it to protect Alt. and paint.

6)Disconnect the black wire from Oil Pressure sender. Use open end wrench and remove the sender. Don't worry the hole won't leak oil.

7)Open adapter bag for your engine. The adapters are not interchangeable, make sure you are using correct adapter.

B-230 uses 2 adapters, one for block and one 90degree offset for Sender.

B-19/21/23 use 1 adapter.No block adapter is needed and adapter is smaller than B-230 type.

REMEMBER THE ADAPTERS ARE A SOFT BRASS ALLOY AND STRIP/CROSS THREAD REALLY EASILY! HAND THREAD AND FINGER TIGHT ARE THE NORM NOT THE EXCEPTION!

B-230 - Take Block adapter and put copper washer on it cupped side down, and hand thread it into block. Find socket that fits it and snug tighten it in block. Take bent adapter and thread it into block adapter, hand tighten it and then using 10mm Crowfoot wrench, snug tighten it until it is at a 10-15 degree forward angle to the vertical. Take New Sender and put washer on it. Hand thread it onto adapter and finger tighten it.

B-19/21/23 - Same except for no block adapter is used only a bent adapter.

8) Try moving the Alt. back up into it's original position and check the clearance between the Sender and the wiring and back of Alt. You may have to adjust the bent adapter a little if you have to gain a little clearance. If everything is clear swing the Alt. down and using the crowfoot wrench tighten the Sender.

9) Put the Alt. belts back on and tighten the adjustment bolt and put it back where you found it.

10) Go inside car. Remove upper gauge cover plate, center console left side cover, front console face, drivers side kickpad and knee bolster. Take wiring set out of box, unroll it and get the kinks out of it. Remove radio if installed or storage sleeve in upper dash, remove glove box, remove passenger side kickpad. Starting at gauge hole leave 3 - 4 inches with the connector hanging out of hole. Fit wire harness through to left side of console and connect the black wire to a ground point. Thread Red/Blue wire through to fuse box and connect to fuse #13. Thread Grey wire to switch anel at top front of console and connect it to any Brown wire with a Scotchlock.

11) Go back under hood. Take coathanger wire and thread it through rubber boot around wire bundle that passes through firewall on right rear of engine. Go inside car and see if you can find end of it. Tape the end of new sender wire, (Green wire with rubber sleeving), to coathanger wire. Go back under hood and pull it through to engine compartment. Pull enough through to get to front bumper, rough measure only you can pull the excess back inside. Route green cable along the existing wiring harness on the right side of engine compartment, through fender passage to right front corner past strut tower. Come out between the washer fluid tank and wheel arch. Go across to block area and connect the green wire to Tab G on sender, connect black adapter cable to Tab WK and old black sender cable to black adapter. Work back to firewall strapping the sleeving to existing wire bundle with wire clips.

12) Pull excess back into passenger compartment. Route it to gauge opening and allow 3-4 inches extra. Cut off excess Green wire and crimp on the cable terminal and fit Green wire connector into opening in Gauge connector. Plug connector into Gauge and let it hang. Take rubber wedges and fit them into slots on gauge mounting hole, fit gauge into hole, rotate it to align key in slot at bottom, push the gauge in until flush. Take cover bezel and fit it to opening and snap it in place.

13) Reconnect pre heat hose and check Alt. hook up and tension of belts. Check area for tools and anything you forgot. Reconnect battery. Get in and fire it up!

14) Watch the needle rise ! It should be at 4 on start up of cold engine, 2-3 for warm idle, 3-4 for Normal temp under load. Let it idle for 10 min and shut it down. Go back under hood with flashlight and check everything for oil leaks. CAREFULLY SLIDE YOUR HAND UNDER AND AROUND ADAPTERS AND SENDER AND FEEL/LOOK FOR OIL! Check wiring for clearance. Get inside and turn on Lights and check that Gauge lights up for nighttime enjoyment! Clean and put away tools. Have a beer you earned it!

Now go out and amaze your friends! and ask why they wouldn't help you!

Disclaimer: This is the way I installed my Gauge and I have routed the wire in a different way than Volvo recommends due to the problems associated with routing of original harness under front of engine. I feel that this is a routing that will cause less problems in future. It's cleaner, easier and you don't have to get under the car and drop the belly pan. If you don't feel confident about your skills, get a friend who knows auto electrics or isn't too stupid to help you.

Thank you for the info. I thought I had ordered a sender kit that included the adapters. I guess you only get them if you get the whole gauge kit. I got my gauges from a dead turbo. The engine was missing so I didn't get the sender.

///I don't have your mod but there have been posts about this unit. Verify that you do not need a copper washer on the adapter at the engine block for this installation. I just remember something to that effect from previous posts.

When installing any sender the seal between the oil switch and the body of the sender can be broken on installation. Careful on tighten up.

Normally there is no sealer needed for oil pressure failure switches. The taper of the thread on the switch takes care of sealing. This may not be true for the adapter fitting.

It's certainly a lot easier to fool with the sender if you remove the alternator; I can't remember what size the hex is(19mm, I think), but don't try to turn the sender by grabbing it by the shell, 'cause it'll likely just spin rather than unscrewing.

An adaptor from 1/8" pipe to 14mm is required on B230 motors, and a 45 degree pipe elbow is handy, too; without it, the alternator won't move all the way towards the block, making belt changing difficult(not impossible).

In any case, be careful working around the back of the alternator; better yet, remove the ground lead from the battery.

Sorry for my ignorance but do I have a B230 engine on an 89 my haynes manual only goes to 87. If I do then I need an adapter right? The Volvo dealer is absolutely no help. They are trying to forget 240's ever existed. He thought I was nuts when I asked for the dual sender. After about half an hour he found it on microfiche. I have a feeling they will have no idea about the adapter. Can I just get this at an auto parts store? The size is much larger than 19 mm. I have a 19 mm wrench. I'm guessing it's a 24 but I'm not sure.

jcovert,

What is the part number for the dual sender? I didn't realize that Volvo made a factory part like this.

I assume that this will fit on all b230 motors? I have a 94 940 B230FT.

Greg

The part # is 1347361. That does not mean much though. It is of course a VDO Sender. I probably got ripped off, but I could not find a working one at the wrecker. I also thought the dealer part would come with the required adapters. Apparently I was wrong. I think the sender I bought was for a turbo. Do the old turbo blocks have an oil pressure hole with a different thread pattern?

If you are using the Volvo sender (gauge plus idiot light) there are two outputs and the unit is larger than the sender for the idiot light alone. That requires a 45 degree adapter that screws into the block and accepts the sender. This gives you the room you need. Any dealer can supply the adapter although you might find one at a junk yard.

The connectors on the sendor are different size and if memory serves me, the larger one is for the gauge. If I'm wrong, no harm, the gauge just pegs. Reverse the leads. In the turbo, the wiring harness has both connections of course.

To remove the sender, I have always used just a pair of water pump pliers. Of course, you want the battery disconnected while you play in there.

BTW, I have never had to remove the alternator but you might want to remove the oil filter.

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