posted by
someone claiming to be aaron
on
Fri Nov 10 01:35 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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Going to change my plugs and dist. cap and probably rotor on on 740 non turbo, wondering which plugs people have had success with and ones that people have hated. Should i go for a genuine volvo dist. cap, or is there no difference between after market ones? What about spark plug wires? Also is the hall effect sensor on the non-turbo 740's a common thing to stuff up? And, is it hard to pull the whole damned distributor out, or should i get some poor soul to do it for me? It doesn't look easy....The only reason i suspect hall sensor, is i have been having my tacho jumping about for quite a while now, and the other day, when i started it it went broom, brom, brom, dead.....then when i started it again, it was fine. Done it a fair bit in the mornings.....ALSO! (one last question), when i put 98 octane fuel in my ovlov the car runs beautiful, but when i put reg. unleaded (aussie reg unlead. about 92 octane) the car doesn't run so well.....it runs, and appears to perform well, but i can hear it knocking under loads etc. could that mean that my knock sensor is rooted too?!
All i can say about the ovlov's is, thank god they all suffer from the same problems! My parents have a nissan with a 2.4 litre 4 engine, and the stupid thing idles low (as in, 300 rpm, i.e. so VERY nearly stalling) whenever it feels like, and no one knows whats wrong with it!
Anyways, you can't beat a solid ovlov. You know what it is, and you know it'll get you there!
Thanks guys! (oh, and girls....)
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posted by
someone claiming to be Tim K.
on
Fri Nov 10 15:14 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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I guess I'll address the knock that you said you hear at acceleration. I too have this octane/ knock symptoms. I have found (through research on the board) that if there is a problem with the knock sensor (ie: either the sensor or its connector) you will experience sluggish performance and hear a pinging on acceleration. It was also suggested to test this out in two ways: pull the connector off the knock sensor and see if there is a noticeable difference, or change octane levels (as you did) to see if there is a difference, or tap with a hammer (next to the sensor, on the block) to see if you hear the engine retard the timing.
Also, if you suspect that the formentioned ingnition components are old or bad, replace them first (as any highmileage maintainance would suggest). Then, if you still have the pinging present, check into the knock sensor.
This is the approach I will be taking. I tried the octane switch from 89 (middle grade) to 92 and I eliminated alot of the pingning but not all of it. So, I'm suspecting those two areas as the problem.
As always, this is just my 2cents. I hope this helps.
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posted by
someone claiming to be vytas
on
Fri Nov 10 06:21 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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There are plenty of naysayers out there regarding the Bosch Platinums. While I can't speak for the regular Platinum plugs, I have the Bosch Platinum +4's, and they work great. I have also pulled them, and seen evidence of all four electrodes firing equally as advertised (you can see a cross shape on the ceramic). The engine is a B230F, like yours.
Hopefully, updating the ignition will improve your low-octane driveability.
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posted by
someone claiming to be SteveRinglee
on
Fri Nov 10 03:45 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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Buy OEM plug wires (Bougicord), Bosch cap and rotor, all from RPR or Borton Volvo. Use silicone dielectric grease when installing the new wires, and check the plastic wire holders (the clips securing the wires to the valve cover) because it's almost a sure thing you will need two or three: they break.
The rotor is sometimes a pain to remove: just lever it with a big screwdriver.
I have had good luck with: Bosch Super, AC Rapidfire, OEM plugs, Autolite Double Platinum, and NGK Platinums, in increasing order of price. I have heard about frustrations with Bosch Platinums.
Use anti-seize, but tighten the plugs at less than recommended torque to compensate.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Richard Brink
on
Fri Nov 10 03:50 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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What are the problems with the Bosch platinums?
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posted by
someone claiming to be keefus
on
Fri Nov 10 04:45 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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I had some intermittent drivabilty problems with my 1991 940 Turbo. It had the Bosch platinum plugs. My mechanic suggested that I change to Bosch Super one heat range hotter than spec. His logic was that the platinum plugs are not hot enough, and that there was incomplete combustion. Since I do mostly short-haul driving, this seemed to make sense, and changing to Bosch Supers seemed to clear up the problem (hesitation at high throttle around 3500 to 4000 rpm).
He said one of the first things he does when there is a drivabilty problem with a Volvo is to put Bosch Supers in (cheap enough). He said he wished he had a dollar for every Bosch Platinum, NGK, Champion, and Autolite he replaced that made the a Volvo run better.
The best bet is to go with Bosch for cap/roter. They are a lot better than OEM, and not a lot costlier. I got a cap and rotor from NAPA recently that was about 30% cheaper than the dealer. The box said Echlin, but the cap and roter themselves had Bosch stamped on them. I also got a set of Belden 7mm wires for about $35 that seem equal to the dealer-supplied wires in every respect. I'll just have to see how long they hold up.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Richard Brink
on
Fri Nov 10 06:21 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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Thanks for the insight. What Bosch super plug number are you using? I would like to try them.
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posted by
someone claiming to be guy w
on
Fri Nov 10 03:31 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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Use OEM parts or be sorry. Check my post in opinions last week. I have had problems with aftermarket parts. The 740s have 2 different coils, so be sure to get the right wires for yours. My mechanic says to stick with the Bosch Super plugs- he has had nothing but trouble out of the Platinums in Volvos. You do not need to pull the distributor to replace the cap/rotor. I have always used regular gas (87 octane) and they run fine.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rene Svastal
on
Fri Nov 10 01:43 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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I have had excellent luck with Bosch crossfire plugs. I would also highly recommend buying the cap and rotor from Volvo because the parts are much thicker and heavier than the crappy replacements.
As far as the other stuff, I'm inexperianced. The distributor is very easy to remove. First remove the car and rotor, then there are two bolts (10mm) and the plug for the hall sensor (CAREFUL) and it comes right out.
Rene
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posted by
someone claiming to be fieraci
on
Sat Nov 11 01:23 CST 2000 [ RELATED]
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Having done the cap/rotor/wires/plugs on my 92' 740 4cyl/nonturbo I can tell you a couple of things: Use an open end wrench (8mm if memory serves) to unfasten the cap in three places (Yes, I seem to remember three). Be patient and don't muscle it, you will only skin your knuckles and maybe strip the internal threads (A small shot of "WD40" beforehand never hurt anyone). Remove the rotor by wiggling it a bit while pulling straight back. Look at both of them. They are probably all pitted and fried like mine were. Replace with new. I used aftermarket from the local parts store with much success. I guess the brand found near me is better than what some of you are getting. Aftermarket wires were a bit hard to find near me as I have the REGINA ignition (coil wire is much different), but I found the proper AUTOLITE set and wrote down the # for next time. I must admit the new wires didn't 'snap on' as tight as the OEM, so there you go, but after a week of the heat of driving I gave them another push and they are pretty snug now. Still not like the OEM's but they're okay. Bosch platinums were used and I have no complaints at all. Those four-prong bosches are more expensive and I opted not to buy them. I use permatex 'anti-seize' compound on the plug threads (This is GOOD stuff to use in a lot of places!), but I always forget to use the dielectric grease. I should really get a small tube.
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