John:

Looks like the experts (Don and Duane) have trouble shot your problem. But to answer your question(s) - I'm fairly convinced that the hype surrounding synthetic oil is true - cooler and cleaner running. I've converted two of the cars under my care (wife's '90 244 and daughter's '95 Chevy) and they DO run a bit cooler, and the engines have cleaned up nicely. I haven't converted my other Volvos yet, because all of them have rear main seal leaks, and I need to address those first. But I've run the Valvoline 10W-30 synth in the tranny of the '85 for several years. The Volvo manual said that this was a suitable replacement for ATF where the temperature stays warm, as it certainly does here!

Finally, no, my wagons (I have two, an '85 and an '87) are not blue. The '85 is beige (probably the most vilified Volvo color) and the '87 is ivory (second most vilified Volvo color, probably cause it's close to beige). I read a novel recently where one of the characters was described as the "most boring man in the world" because he drove a beige Volvo station wagon. Since I have (essentially) TWO beige Volvo wagons, what does that make me? (don't answer this question!)

"...thirdmost, is your wagon blue as well?"

The blue ones are the best. I have two '82 blue wagons — one turbo, one not. Both have had ALL the relays resoldered as a precaution.

(Except the non-turbo, which let me down one night with a bad. fuel pump relay. But a paper clip sufficed to run the pump and get me home. That's when I decided to resolder all.)

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Oooooohhhhhhhh..........

Duane is right!! On a manual tranny, the OD lockout switch could easily be temp sensitive, and IS part of the circuit along with the push button and wire to the push button.

Unfortunately, it's not nearly as comfortable a repair job as the relay. So start with the free, easy, and comfortable task. Even if it's not the problem, it would otherwise fail at some point—so soldering now preempts a later problem.

And while your iron's hot, solder the fuel pump relay. It's just as easy, and a pump relay glitch is much more irritating.

Finally enough information. First, remove the glove box and the light for it. Remove the relay and take it into the house overnight. Keep it toasty warm. In the morning, start car replace relay, drive. If OD now works, concentrate on relay. IF still same symptoms, replace 4th gear switch on right side of tranny.

Duane

83-245 LH 2.0 M46 205xxx

85-245 LH 2.2 AW70 138xxx

Overland Park, Kansas

The OD Guru (Laycock only)

"...nothing happens..."

Resolder the relay. It costs $0, takes 15 minutes, and has zero risk. If it helps, great! But if not, you're out $0.

"...are you sure that this could be caused by the relay?"

Yes, or the push button or wire to the button. The OD indicator light is the key. Its functioning is completely independant of the OD, solenoid, or wiring to the solenoid. It depends only on the electronic logic 'n operation of the relay. It tells you ONLY that the relay has pulled in. On=pulled in, not on=not pulled in.

It could possibly be a temperature-sensitive fuse, but I've never seen one.

"...tips&tricks for dealing with the OD relay?"

Well, it's easy to deal with. You do it all by just sitting around.

Remove the glove box (7 screws), and look in and to the left about 4" and 4". The relay is clipped to a horizontal metal strut and usually buried under a buncha harnesses. Remove and discard the clip—it causes more trouble than it's worth (often squeezes the plastic cover so much it binds against the relay).

"...easy for you to say; it's cold outside..."

Unplug the relay and go inside — resolder in the warmth of your home.

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)