Hi all,

I have a 1997 Volvo 940 2.0 Turbo with 312,000 km on the odometer.
Recently, I've noticed that the car pulls to the left only when I apply the brakes.

I've already checked the caliper pins, and pistons (like new really) which are working as expected, and the brake pads are brand new. The rotors have 112,000 km on them, still within their specs.

Although I have a strong feeling that the issue lies somewhere in the front right area, I wonder if such behavior could possibly be caused by the rear brakes, as I haven't checked the pistons there. However, looking at the front ones, I don't see any reason why the rear ones would be faulty.

It’s as if when I brake, the car slightly lowers on the right and drifts to the left, but at this point, I'm not sure if the issue is related to the braking system. Maybe it could be a suspension problem?

The alignment is always good on this car; it drives straight, and there is no abnormal tire wear.

Do you have any other advice?

Thank you,
Alex

If you have excessive wear in the balljoints - as someone else mentioned - that can cause pulling while braking.

I'm not intimately familiar with the 940 suspension setup, but the rear bushings on the arm that runs front to back from the control arm to the frame having a work out bushing will cause pulling to that side. If it's worn out, that bushing will collapse towards the rear of the car causing the control arm to pull the tire in a way that it angles it outward.

Hope this helps,
Will

The rear end shouldn't be involved. Think front brakes, front suspension, front end alignment, front tires, most likely a combination of these. Here's some food for further thought:

Start by checking for equal tire pressure.

Lift the front end and secure on stable jack stands for safety. Rock the wheels back and forth vertically and horizontally to check bushing and end link play.

Have someone slowly feather the brakes a step at a time while you check both sides for equal scuffing and rolling resistance. Which side is the first that can't be turned by hand? The left? When released, is the pad scuffing more or less equal? If the pads are brand new, were the old pads more or less equally worn? Left pads worn more than the right? Consider that the new pad material may not be equally bedded into the rotors. Next time you've got a safe opportunity, consider re-bedding the rotors at highway speeds.

Remove the wheels and pads. Are the left and right rotors more or less evenly worn? Check the inside of the rotors for significant scoring that you may not have noticed. More or less equal scoring left and right side? Check the rotors for wear shoulders at the edges of the pads. Until the pads are fully broken in, the pads may be riding slightly on the shoulders.

Have the caliper slide pins been individually checked and serviced in recent history? Both the pins and the guides are normally unequally worn upper and lower when you wiggle them (upper always more worn than the lower as I recall), but should be similarly worn left and right side of the vehicle. Periodically remove them for inspection, cleaning and re-lubing, at least every second pad change. Replace any split boots. Also inspect the piston dust boots carefully for damage. If they're damaged, the fronts can only be replaced as part of a caliper seal re-build.

Check your control rod (radius rod) bushings, especially the front cone bushings, especially the left side as it's pulling to the left. This would be one of my main suspect areas for you. It's something that's often neglected as it can be difficult to determine if and how worn they are unless the car is up on a hoist. Unless you can identify the problem elsewhere, I'd consider replacing your cone bushings on spec as they're not expensive. At the same time you can remove the control rod to the bench to check the rear bushing for tear by locking the core in a vise and trying to move it up/down to see if the rubber is starting to separate.

If the front right dips, suspect the right strut.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your extensive list of checks.

To be honest, I don't think there is anything wrong with the brakes.

Like you, I suspect something in the suspension, especially because the only bushings I have changed in 28 years are the ones that come with new tie rods and the IPD front sway bar, as they are part of the kit they supply.

The front struts are still the original.

Now, I wanted to go through this process to change all the bushings anyway, but that will happen in the spring, as it is too cold now to work in my garage, even with the heater.

My question to you:

IPD sells those front suspension bushing kits, but I am not sure if the blue bushings are better than the genuine black rubber. Maybe they are, but I suspect they will not last long.

Do you have any personal experience with those blue bushings? Has anyone else in this forum used them?

Thank you!
Alex

Hi Alex,

There's a note in the 700/900 FAQ about worn control arm cone bushings on the radius rod, aka. stay rod, causing brake pull as well as notes on replacing them. If you find the radius rod rear bushing happens to be tearing, which isn't as common, then you basically have to buy a whole new rod with the bushing already pressed in. There were two different lengths (an earlier one and a revised slightly longer one to improve handling), also adjustable ones available, so check to make sure you get the correct one to match the other side. For a '97, yours will almost certainly be the revised one.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Brakes.html#BrakesPullWhenAppliedControlArmBushings

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FrontSuspension.html#RadiusArmBushingReplacement



Make sure you get the bolts good and tight, especially the rear chassis bolt. Be sure to tighten them with the suspension normally loaded, i.e. both front wheels up on ramps. The Volvo Pocket Data book torque spec for the front control arm stay rod bolt is 74 ft-lbs. Torque spec for the rear stay rod chassis bolt varied with the bolt size, with the standard M14 bolt being 89 ft-lbs. Aftermarket manuals have slightly different torque specs. A wheel alignment is optional unless you change the stay rod length, but if the last alignment was done with badly worn bushings then best to do it again.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

The bushings at the end of the control arm are worn out, especially the ones on the driver’s side.

I have ordered 4 new ones and I hope to be able to replace them in a couple of weeks, waiting for the spring.

I also bought 2 bushings of the control arm stay, just in case the existing ones are bad.

My question to you is related to the torque specs, in the pocket book I read this:

1) Control arm stay - control arm Nm 105 or ft.lb 74
2) Control arm stay - Body, M14 Nm 120 or ft.lb 89

Now,is 1) meant to be the M12 that screws in the control arm stay and the 2) the M14 bolt that attaches the control arm stay to the frame? I understand the latter has to be tighten at full suspension load, right?

Thank you!
Alex

Hi Alex,

Correct and if you're a purist then best to load both sides the same, ie. both front wheels safely up on ramps or blocks. You want it loaded so that the pressed in rubber bushing at the chassis is locked in place close to the neutral position so as not to unduly stress the rubber. I also clean the eye in the control arm with a wire wheel to remove any dirt and grunge. I'm sure you know this, but I'll mention it anyway, chock the rear wheels then lean heavily into both sides of the front to make sure it's stable before going underneath and heaving on the torque wrench.

Glad you found your problem. First time I replaced mine they were obviously shot and as I vaguely recall the right is usually worst, presumably because it sees more rough pavement near the edge of the road. Since them I'm a bit more careful to check them every couple of years once they get older, replacing them as soon as the exposed rubber starts to look seriously checked. It's both usage and age that cause the rubber to deterioriate as well as the quality of the bushings. Both my 940s are probably on their third set of cone bushings now, the last one done just a few months ago. I've yet to have a rear bushing tear, but always check them in a vise on the bench to be sure.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Today, I removed the control stay, which was easier than expected, meaning that unbolting was without any problem, as I see that Volvo used a white anti-seize.

Now, the problem: cleaning the conical housing to fit the bushings. I tried with a wire brush, so far just the front side, but still the bushing does not fit.

I measured the bushing part that should fit in and it is 32mm, the hole is 28mm, a big difference.

https://postimg.cc/dkXD4vnJ

https://postimg.cc/QKTCzPn1

https://postimg.cc/SYFknKDY

https://postimg.cc/vg8S3wT2

Also, it looks like there is groove in the middle of the hole.
I do have one of those step-drill conical bit, and the biggest diam is 32mm, maybe that could be a solution?

From what I have understood so far, it looks like the part outlined in red was part of the old bushing and melted with the control arm housing.

If that is the case, I have no idea how to remove it, I have not tried a chisel, but it looks impossible to me that way.

https://postimg.cc/BjRGt6h5

Any ideas?

Alex

Hi Alex,

Your red circled area is the control arm and looks perfectly normal. The control arm bushing surface looks fine, although I see some residual pitting that suggests it was either a bit rusty before you cleaned it up or was a rough casting. Normally you just brush off the brown dirt and any scale or residual rubber and you're good to go. You don't polish it up or lube it as it needs to grip into the rubber ridges. I normally just use a cup wire wheel in a drill and give the front and back of the eye a quick clean. Good to have it reasonably smooth just as you've done, but once it's torqued down there's no movement at the surface except for flexing at the outer edge, so a little uneveness on the surface doesn't matter.

It's often a bit difficult to get the nut started on the outer bushing if there's not enough thread sticking out. With the rear cone bushing in place, have the control arm stay rod (aka. radius rod) loosely mounted at the chassis to keep things in alignment for doing the front bushing. With the cup washer removed there should now be enough thread sticking out to get the nut started and compress it a bit so you can then properly get the cup washer and nut on.

If needed, you can disconnect the stay rod at the rear bushing and tension it straight forward into the control arm to try getting a little extra thread. Use whatever it takes to pry it forward a bit. Problem with doing this is getting the rear bolt through once you're done. Poke a tapered punch through the hole from the left to pry the rod back to get the holes aligned and be able to start the bolt from the other end.

If there's still not enough thread to do this then I'm wondering if you have an incorrect bushing. You could try doing a dry run without the stay rod in place. Use a C-clamp to compress the bushings together then use a caliper to measure the outer distance to see if there's ever going to be enough thread sticking out. If not then you've got a fitment issue

Which conical bushings did you get? There are two ones that are slightly different. The story should go something like this, but I'm relying on memory and multiple sources, only some of which are Volvo.

There was an updated shorter control arm stay rod with an updated bushing designed to reduce brake vibration. In the early models these may have been updated in the field based on customer complaints. In the later models, I believe the updated stays were standard, as with both my '95 940s. If you use a North American parts site, your 1997 940 may not be listed to know what was standard issue in Europe.

Measure the control stay rod from the centre of the rear bushing to the tip of the thread. The updated control stay is 388.5mm long and uses updated conical bushing p/n 6819057 (which superseded factory p/n 8628965). Both the steel and aluminum control arms (used in a few later 900s) use the same updated bushing.

The original control stays were normally 390.5mm long and used the original conical bushing p/n 1359599 (which superseded factory p/ns 1229297, 1229299, 1272837). There was a 396mm stay for use with 16" wheels and a 385mm one for use with 14" wheels. Both used the original conical bushing.

It looks like the 6819057 bushings may have a longer steel core in the middle and may not fit the original controls arms or at least may be a more difficult fit.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Alex, re-reading your post about the size of the hole and looking at the pics, I think you got the wrong cone bushings. Please verify the control stay rod length and the part numbers I gave you.

My goodness, those old bushings were shot. Little surprise you had brake pulling. I'm surprised you weren't hearing clunking when you hit the brakes.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

It is more often the case that I cannot connect to Brickboard (Error 504) than I can, not sure why though.

I am confident the new bushings are correct, as I have VIDA, but to confirm, I measured the control arm, and it is 390.5mm. (my wheels are 15").
Now, the reason I believe the area I circled in red is what remains from the old bushing is because the part of the new bushing that fits into the bore has a diam. of 32mm, and the current bore is 28-29mm. Also, if you look at the image, the groove in the middle indicates that the backside is the same situation. There is no way I can fit that 1359599 into the bore, I think it should nicely slide in and then I can bolt it.

I doubt this is the way the original control arm was because, when you compare it to the original, that surface is smooth and does not have neither the edge I circled, nor that inner groove you see.

On other forums seem to agree with me, but I will keep digging.

I will keep you posted.

Thank you!
Alex

Dear Metallo,

Hope you're well and stay so. As the conical bushings are made of rubber - with metal insert - it is most unlikely that bushing has fused with the control arm.

The rubber bushing contact surfaces might deteriorate and break into pieces. But the rubber is unlikely to melt, unless subject to sustained, high heat. This could happen during summer in the U.S. desert southwest or in parts of Arabia, Kuwait and Iraq.

You might want to soak the area in a penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster). The oil will find micro-channels in the melted rubber and so soften the rubber.

You might also apply heat, e.g., from an electric heat gun. That, too, should soften the rubber but not damage the metal. High heat - e.g. from an acetylene torch - can soften metal: on a control arm that is plainly to be avoided.

Rubber softened by moderate heat and/or a penetrating oil, should be removable with gentle scraping.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hi Spook,

I am good, and I hope you are well too!

So, I have already cleaned those cones, I see no rubber, unless it solidified and looks like metal.
See this image below.

https://postimg.cc/WtT4xCj7

In the meantime, I have disassembled the driver side, this is what is left after 28 years.

https://postimg.cc/ftjRJj7X

Regarding the P/Ns: Control Arm Stay is 390.5mm

The genuine P/N of the bushings is: 1359599

The number printed on the new bushing is: 6819057 which should be the same as 1359599.

I really do not know what to think anymore.

Thank you,
Alex

Hi Alex,

That is indeed unbelievable to have the internal plates of the cone bushings fused into the control arm eyes like that, especially without evidence of a fried layer of rubber. I don't recall ever hearing of that happening. I've done this job five times now on two 900s and one 700, the last time just a few months ago. None of my bushings have been anywhere near as bad as yours. I recall always ending up needing to start with the nut first to get enough thread to be able to get the front cup washer on.

I've long been under the impression that you *should* use the correct bushing to match the control stay rod you have. So, even if you manage to get it to fit it may not be the intended bushing, leastwise for the Genuine Volvo bushings.

Aftermarket cone bushings are another matter and that's where it gets confusing. I suspect some of them are either incorrect listings or more likely these are compromise designs that fit both the original and updated control stays. See the very end of this post for what the difference appears to be. There will be very few updated control sway rods on the 940s out there, so if it's not a perfect match for the updated sways then they probably feel that's close enough. It may well be that the aftermarket bushings are designed more like the original ones and fit the original sways, while only being adequate for use with the updated sways.

A) I'll refer you to the FCP website (a reputable source for fitments). Their listing for the Genuine Volvo 1359599 original bushing does not list 6819057 as an equivalent bushing. It states "This bushing is designed and intended to be used with control arm stays that are original. Original control arm stays installed at the factory vary in length and can be 385mm, 390.5mm, or 396mm. Stays with a 388.5mm length are service replacements that were designed to reduce brake vibration. This stay uses a different bushing, part number 6819057."
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-radius-arm-bushing-740-760-780-940-960-1359599oe
Having said that, most of the aftermarket brands do list their bushings as being equivalent to both of the Volvo bushings.

B) On the Volvo Toronto dealer parts website (connected to the Volvo North America parts chain and their listed fitments):
o P/N 6819057 updated bushing is not listed as being equivalent to the 1359599 bushing. It is listed as superseding p/n 8628965 (those superseded p/ns are often part numbers used only in the factory, not in the parts chain).
https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/p/42898741/6819057.html
o P/N 1359599 original bushing is not listed as being equivalent to 6819057. It is listed as superseding p/ns 1229297, 1229299 and 1272837.
https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/p/42897578/1359599.html
o On the front axle fiche page for a 1995 940, the cone bushing is item #11
https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/a/Volvo_1995_940-23l-Fuel-Injected-Turbo/_50018_5704365/Front-axle/GR-67798.html
- For #11 as p/n 6819057 it says "FOR 6819079". If you lookup p/n 6819079 it says "spring support. Front axle. Service version for cars with brake vibrations. LG 388.5 mm.", so clearly intended for the updated control stay, implying it's not for the original stays.
- For #11 as p/n 1359599 it says "spring support. Front axle. 940. 960 1994. 6CYL 1994. 4CYL. EXC(luding) 6819079.", so clearly intended not to be used with the updateed control stay, thus for all the original stay lengths.
- Note that Volvo still has both bushings available in the parts chain, which normally wouldn't happen if the updated one was a replacement for the original one.

C) On the IPD website (another reputable source for fitments)
o The Genuine Volvo p/n 6819057 listing does not indicate it's a replacement for 1359599. There are no fitment notes regarding control stays.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9342/Strut-Rod-Bushing-Genuine-Volvo-6819057?crumbs=0,987,1392
Note in the pics that this Volvo bushing has a yellow dot on it. Volvo often uses dots to indicate an updated part that is either similar looking or a direct replacement so they don't get mixed up in parts bins.
o The Genuine Volvo p/n 1359599 lsiting does not indicate it's a replacement for 6819057. Again, there are no fitment notes regarding control stays. https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12602/Strut-Rod-Bushing-Genuine-Volvo-1359599?crumbs=0,987,1392
o Here's their updated control stay p/n 6819079 (strut rod as they call it). See the product description for what's different about the new bushing
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21519/Strut-Rod-Update-Kit-700-900-Rubber-IPD-140044-Volvo-6819079

D) I note on the RockAuto website (another place known for good fitments) that the URO Parts bushing (made by URO in Europe) is listed as 6819057 with the description "Front Lower Outer; Strut Rod to Control Arm; Updated Style, Reinforced" and noted as interchangeable with 1359599.

E) Skandix is interesting. They're usually really good for fitments, but their descriptions can sometimes be less than perfect what with language barriers.
o Their listing for a 6819057 bushing says "For export models with an aluminum wishbone (USA). Can be installed with steel suspension arms as an enhanced alternative for European vehicles." They make no notes about updated control stays or bushings other than to say these are heavy duty nor do they indicate they're Genuine Volvo bushing. I highly suspect it's a URO Parts one as it matches their picture and the "heavy duty" wording on other sites. There is no note that these are an alternate part for a 1359599 bushing, but they do list a 1359599 bushing kit as an alternative to this part -note that the picture looks nothing like a Genuine Volvo bushing and it turns out these are Daystar aftermarket poly bushings and they use a metal collar (AutoHausAZ sells that kit).
https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/suspension-steering/axle-mounting/bushing/bushing-suspension-front-axle-control-arm/1004521/
o If you do a search for a 1339599 bushing, nothing comes up, not even the above poly kit, so go figure.
o Bottom line, Skandix is not selling Genuine Volvo bushings or bushings specifically made for an original or an updated control arm sway.

In summary, to quote from IPD, "The last [updated] design is referred to as the 388.5mm strut rod but there are more differences than just the length of the rod. The rods were also fitted with a larger pocketed bushing at the base to make the steering less susceptible to irregularities (bump steer)."

I'm not exactly sure which "pocket" they mean, whether it's the interface at the base of the control arm (width of the bushing) or the base of the bushing at the cup washers? The control arms themselves were not updated other than there were aluminum ones on some European made cars in later years.

BTW, those ridges in your red circled area looked to me simply like casting marks. Your 1997 940 is a European car assembled at the tail end of production in a different plant from the North American 940s assembled in Halifax. It's not uncommon for plants to source their Volvo branded parts from different manufacturers using the same specs. If I'd noticed that the rough identations I saw might be in a pattern that could be perforations in the plate then I'd have twigged to your problem.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Tomorrow I will finally have time to re-assemble everything including the new sway bar links.
Since I had to wait a week, I thought it would be better to paint the links, primer + POR15 :)

https://postimg.cc/Mccgs1gn

https://postimg.cc/7Cpdjfym

In the pocket data booklet, I see the following for the Nm torque:

Anti-roll bar link - Control Arm, steel Nm 90
Anti-roll bar link - side member Nm 50

Since the one I have, bolts in the control arm, I believe Nm 90 is the correct value.

However, I do not understand what Anti-roll bar link - side member refers to.

Also, one more question:

Am I good to put Permatex anti-seize on those bolts, I mean the one on the control arm stay - body and the one that goes in the control arm?

How about the bolt to the control arm of the above links?

Thank you!
Alex

Hi Alex,

Those end links do look nice all cleaned up and painted.

Do not use anti-seize on torqued nuts. It acts as a lubricant and will result in over-torquing which can risk metal fatigue. If anything, Volvo would have you using a thread locker on suspension bolts so there's no chance of them ever working loose, but thread locker also acts as a lubricant and should be avoided unless called for. Just wipe the threads clean and torque then to spec.

The sway bar end link bushings at the top do not get torqued, they get tightened until the rubber is compressed such that the cup washers are 42 mm apart (as measured outside in the middle, ie. including the thickness of the cup washers).

The lower bolt attaching the sway bar end link to the control arm gets tightened to the 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

For the 50 Nm, the "anti-roll bar bracket side member" they're talking about is the sway bar mounting bracket to the chassis with the rubber block bushing.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Thank you, Dave.

Actually the end links are new, they came in bare metal, so I thought to make them more resistant to rust.:)

The original ones are in the image below, one of the bushing started to deteriorate, nonetheless, I am thinking to clean them and put them aside for the next time, as the new ones are not genuine, they are from Delphi, and certainly I do not expect them to last 28 years.

https://postimg.cc/75Sr0M3V

Do you know if a new bushing is sold for those end links? I do not think it has ever been sold as a separate part, but likely that bushing can be found on the market, which could be pressed in.

Alex

Hi Alex

Volvo doesn't show the bushing in the base of the end link as a separate part number, so likely not available in the aftermarket. The end links are so cheap and commonly available in the aftermarket that it probably wouldn't be worth the effort to change the bushing anyway. The end link is no longer available as a Genuine Volvo part.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Just to let you know that the problem is solved now, no more leaning to the left and the car is definitely less noisy when driving over irregularities in the road.

In the meantime, I discovered a leak from the top o-ring of my water pump, therefore I need to fix it before my next drive to Montreal.

Volvo prices for those seals/gaskets are ridiculously high, there are many aftermarket brands on the market, any direct experience from which one is less worst?

I changed my water pump 3 years ago, Graf, and I did not expect the seals to be of such poor quality.

I see NAPA sells a kit from Professional Parts Sweden, and I have not much choice here in NB, other than the Volvo dealer.

What do you guys normally use as an aftermarket brand for those seals?

Thank you,
Alex

Hi Alex,

Glad you got the front suspension sorted out.

Those mushroom gaskets on top of the water pump are a common place for leaks. If they're not adequately compressed up under the head when they're installed then they can leak as they age and shrink. Worse still is if they're exposed to spilled or weeping oil from around the valve cover area then a cheap rubber gasket can go mushy and start to leak. That's where a genuine Volvo mushroom gasket can outlive a cheap aftermarket gasket.

I normally just use the gaskets that come with the pumps, which for me are either Hepu or GMB pumps. I've also used the Pro Parts Sweden gasket sets, which are commonly available. I consider them perfectly adequate quality, but nothing special. To help keep the mushroom gasket from getting oily and going mushy, I am a) careful to clean up any oil spilled during filling and b) use black RTV around the lip of the the mushroom gasket so oil can't collect in the gap under the head and get at the exposed rubber. Use a lever to pry up under the pump as you tighten it to make sure it's compressed under the head flange. Although gasket sealer isn't called for on any of the gaskets, many like me do use a sealer, at least on one side of the paper gasket. My weapon of choice is a non-drying blue hypalon gasket sealer. It stays tacky forever and allows me to slide and even remove the pump without damaging the paper gasket.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Thank you, Dave.

I am sure the o-ring is well compressed as I use the same procedure you use, with the exception that I have never used any grease, only some vaseline to facilitate the placement when compressing the pump.

I did the head gasket myself 3 years ago, it is all clean, so no oil spill.

I can try the RTV black, but will it be difficult to remove next time?

Regarding the gasket, I have always had a small leak from the bolt at the bottom, I also replaced the bolt, but still a minor leak.
Is there anything I could use to prevent this minor leak from the thread of the bolt?

Finally, the non-drying blue hypalon gasket sealer, any suggestion on the brand you use?

On another note, tomorrow I am flying to Richmond (BC), if I well remember you are in BC, but do not remember where :)

Thank you,
Alex

Dear Metallo,

Hope you're well and stay so. I rely on Volvo's top-of-water-pump seal. On the 940s, Volvo-original rubber items - seals, bushings, etc. - seem to be very durable. Further, the Volvo brand water pump top seal is "thicker" than substitutes, so is less likely to distort under pressure.

During installation, I use a bottle jack and a piece of wood to raise the pump to compress the seal. With a bottle jack I can apply just enough pressure can be applied to compress the seal, while I insert and tighten the bolts to secure the pump.

As to preventing a leak around bolt threads, might I suggest use of: (a) anti-seize or - if that fails - (b) the white (teflon-loaded) pipe joint compound plumbers use to seal threaded water pipe fittings? This teflon-loaded pipe joint compound not only prevents leaks, it prevents rust-bonding between pipe segments. It does not harden, so allows fittings to be undone. I'd apply a thin coating to the bolt threads and bolt-up snug.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hey, Spook. hope you are also staying well.

Way back, and I'm talking 1980s, with a red block Volvo engine I used a bottle jack under an aftermarket pump (likely either Hepu or GMB, I'm not sure) to compress the mushroom gasket up under the head flange. I must have gotten slightly carried away with the jack as the next day I noticed it was leaking and on inspection I discovered I'd managed to crack the pump casting. It was rather embarrassing to go back to my indie parts supplier and this time ask them to order me in a genuine Volvo pump. Since then I only use a pry bar under the pump braced on something like the power steering pulley. I must have done ten water pumps since then and always found that's more than enough force to adequately compress the gasket.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Dear Dave Stevens,

Hope you're well and stay so!!! Using a bottle jack allows me to supply just enough lift to compress the seal.

I suspect the pump casing was defective, i.e., that there was a fault in the metal, such that application of slight pressure caused failure. You may have dodged a bullet: a faulty casting could have failed because of heat-driven expansion and contraction cycles.

I cannot imagine that You applied so much pressure, that you actually broke a pump housing, which is a pretty beefy piece of metal.

If my guess is correct, it was better to have the casting fail in your driveway rather than on a rainy night out in the wilds!

Yours faithfully,
Spook

Hi Spook,

Thank you for your advice.

Regarding the white (teflon-loaded) pipe joint compound, I see at least two known brands:

https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-great-white-pipe-joint-compound-with-ptfe--275767012?upc=038753312293

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-1-oz/

Do you use any of the two? I see the reviews on the first one are not great, but reviews are frequently meaningless, so I prefer to ask to whoever use this stuff by direct experience.

Thank you!
Alex

Dear Metallo,

Hope you're well and stay so! I use Oatey pipe joint compound. In U.S. home improvement stores (e.g., Hope Depot, Lowes, etc.), pipe joint compounds are stocked in the plumbing department.

In the U.S., Permatex products are more often found in auto parts stores.

As pipe joint compound is widely used by plumbers - who plainly have an interest in leak-free pipe joints - I prefer to rely on a product marketed to and mainly used by plumbers.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Alex, unfortunately that's the wrong bushing. 6819057 is the updated bushing for the updated control stay rod and definitely not the same as the 1359599 bushing that you need for your original control stay. Ref the FCPEuro website parts selector for any year 940 and you'll see the note about that. I got my part numbers and superseded part numbers off Volvo dealer parts websites as well as the lengths. I saw a number of aftermarket websites that are incorrect or misleading about that bushing. A parts person sees the word 'updated' and incorrectly assumes that means 'supersede'.

As I said, your control arm looks fine. The bushings will not push in all the way by hand. The way to get them to fully seat into the eye is to tighten the nut. It's a poor design and the 700/900s have long had front end brake shudder and handling issues because of those bushings. The updated control stay still wasn't ideal. You can read about that on the IPD website where they list their adjustable control stay rod that comes with poly bushings. Their poly cone bushing cannot be used with the Volvo control stays.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

There is no difference between the two part numbers, also according to FCP.

Skandix makes this statement for 6819057:
For export models with an aluminum wishbone (USA). Can be installed with steel suspension arms as an enhanced alternative for European vehicles.

I measured the length of the metal core in both, it is identical: 25mm

In the meantime I have good news! The metal part of the old bushing solidified with the housing cone, but I managed to remove both layers on the back and front side, some further cleaning and the bushings now fit in!

Now, no more "groove" in the center core,it is as it should be.

Look at this image, isn't that unbelievable?

https://postimg.cc/K4n1zWn1

Alex

Thank you, Dave.

I’ll let you know once the work is done.

In the meantime, I purchased those alloy rims I mentioned to you, (Aries) and once I’ve finished the work, I’ll get new tires installed and see how it runs.

I’m not sure if I need to do the alignment. I did that years ago, and these cars tend to hold it well. In fact, my old tires are worn evenly, and the car drives perfectly straight. However, I know that after changing components in the front suspension, a realignment wouldn’t hurt.

Do you do an alignment every time you change these bushings?

Alex

I generally don't bother with an alignment after changing the control rod cone bushings. There's no adjustment so the geometry shouldn't have changed since the last alignment. Now if the last alignment was done when the bushings were really badly worn to the point of being almost sloppy then in theory the toe-in might now have changed a little bit with new bushings, so in that case I might think about it.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

I agree with what you say about exchanging parts that things don’t move.

Now I wonder what is going on with the BrickBoard?

It was by chance I posted a reply to StrackerJack and then it died again shortly afterwards.
He wrote back on the 17th
NowI see you are on here this morning on a different post.

Has the BrickBoard had a revival or something?
Art Benstein and I thought we would have to write the website down as history.
It was a fluke for me to hit a favorite icon on my tabletop and it worked.
Same thing again this morning that the page opened up so I left it to come here.

Are you getting on now in some regular manner?

Phil

Hey Phil,
I'm posting a response as a new thread. Best wishes.
-Dave
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

The bushings at the end of the control arm stay, especially the ones on the driver side are gone.

I have ordered 4 new ones and I hope to be able to replace them in a couple of weeks, waiting for the spring.

I also bought 2 bushings of the control arm stay, just in case the existing ones are bad.

My question to you is related to the torque specs, in the pocket book I read this:

1) Control arm stay - control arm Nm 105 or ft.lb 74
2) Control arm stay - Body, M14 Nm 120 or ft.lb 89

Now,is 1) meant to be the M12 that screws in the control arm stay and the 2) the M14 bolt that attaches the control arm stay to the frame? I understand the latter has to be tighten at full suspension load, right?

Thank you!
Alex

Thank you, Dave.

That’s a really an interesting point, which I didn’t notice in the FAQs.
Great catch!

As I mentioned in my previous post in reply to JWalker, I plan to go through all the suspension work in the spring (right now, it’s simply too cold in the winter for that type of job).

I am also in the market to switch from the original steel rims to alloy ones.(the lug nut holes have widened over the years and are way too large now).
I’m considering a set of ARIES 15", which I found refurbished from multiple vendors.

One of these vendors, Wheels America, seems to be well known on the market:

https://wheelsamerica.com/product/volvo-740-1992-15-oem-wheel-rim/

Since I have no experience with this, I wanted to ask for your thoughts or if anyone has had any experience with them. They guarantee the rims to original specs and appear to have extensive experience.

Unfortunately, nobody seems to sell the center caps at reasonable prices, though. :(

Any advice is always welcome!

Thank you,
Alex

Hi Alex,

I haven't used them, but Wheels America does look reputable. I'd rather get refurbished wheels from someone like them than buy used ones privately. Lots of places refinish allows, grinding down the curb rash and polishing out the scratches, but few actually straighten them. There are no longer any rim straighteners in my region -the last of them left when the local race track shut down.

Between potholes and curbs, alloys are often no longer perfectly true, especially those with few spokes and offset spokes. It can be difficult to spot unless you mount them and use a dial micrometer against both bead surfaces to check the Volvo specs. The other year I replaced the tires on both my 940s at the same time and carefully checked each rim with the tires off (also touched them up and cleaned them up so no more bead leaks). Only two of the eight 10-spoke stock alloys were within spec, most were obviously pothole damaged. I managed to carefully beat five back within spec (curved end 2x4 and hand sledge) and got the sixth fairly close before deciding to back off in case I cracked it. I then indexed the rims for the low spot so the tire shop could properly match them to the balance mark on the tires (most, but not all tires have a dot). If you have your tires load force balanced then the shop can do an even better job of matching the tire alignment on the wheel.

As for hubcaps, IPD seems to have a decent selection of aftermarket ones and you can often find used OE ones on eBay.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Alex,

Yes, if you're content that the brakes and alignment are okay then maybe concentrate on the suspension and bushings. Cone bushings, end links, sway bar end link bushings, rear radius rod bushings and front swaybar block bushings in that order of concern for your problem.

Interesting you should mention IPD poly bushings. I've got an IPD sway bar and poly bushings on my turbo 940, but not on my NA 940. I'm more worried about the poly bushings going dry and wearing out than the rubber ones going stiff and crumbling. If the poly bushings are young then I'll refresh them with poly grease before they dry out, else I'm switching back to rubber. The sway bars provide the stiffness in roll handling, not the little bushings. I don't think poly cone bushings are available and if they were I would never use them.

As for switching from rubber to poly bushings, I'm no longer a fan, plus they're normally more difficulty to install, in addition to the dried out lubrication issues. Stick with quality rubber, Volvo OEM and Bougicord preferred, but Pro Parts and MTC are adequate and will get you by for a number of years.

There was an interesting disussion about poly bushings here a couple of years ago. John Sargent is a long time Volvo RWD expert and a past major contributor here. Knows way more than I do. He's very familiar with the later 960s, also lives close to IPD in Portland and uses their stuff whenever he wants. Here's a brickboard thread you might find interesting.

https://brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1689182&show_all=1
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Another suspension suggestion. Have you tested the ball joints? Check that side’s ball joint for wear. The brakes on my 90 240 pulled left. Couldn’t find the problem initially. Later discovered it was a bad ball joint.

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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hi,

I will go through all the suspension work in the spring, as it is time to replace the bushings everywhere. At this point, it is not just a matter of identifying the root cause of the problem, but also of renewing all the 'rubbers' I find, as this has never been done. The ball joints will also be part of the process.

Thank you,
Alex

Hi Alex,

I understand that you will go over all of the suspension in the spring. Good plan! However, it were my car I would at least test the ball joint for safety. Will take just a few minutes. It is not something to mess around with. If the ball joint breaks you will lose steering control of your car. IMO - not worth the risk. Better off paying someone to fix it if necessary...

One more thought. Since you mentioned your struts are original they are probably toast too with that many klicks on them. It is pretty much a guarantee that the strut cartridge is toast. I'd also check the strut mount and spring seat for wear. However, these strut parts are not critical safety items like the ball joint. So you can probably wait till spring...

Jim

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Not mentioned in your post -

Are all your tire pressures ok?

Brickboard is full of surprises lately, now login is busted for me,

Hi Alex,

That's an odd problem where it sounds like the front right caliper isn't grabbing
as it should. I wonder if it's old brake fluid and it's more corrupt on the right side caliper?

When did you flush the brakes last?

Good luck and happy holidays, Bill

Hi Bill,

I flushed the right side 3 days ago because I removed and inspected the piston.

My question is: at this point, does the issue necessarily stem from the front right?

Hi Alex,

I don't have any info on 1997 940 brakes.
I do have earlier 240-940 Brake/ABS files to share if you want it
Does your car have ABS? If so look for OBD codes.

You didn't say how old that DOT4 brake fluid is?
If it's a tandem brake circuit, I'd flush the driver rear
.
Maybe the two calipers misbehave as a pair with crappy brake fluid.
You can have a hard brake peddle and suffer bad brake fade at speed,
probably because of water or crud in the old brake fluid.

If it's old DOT4, flush the entire system with a pressure bleeder.

Bill