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Update: Power window fuse 8 blowing.

Trying to access the Brickboard is similar to buying a lottery ticket! After two days I am able to get on and make a post. This is an update to my original posts at:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1692758/update_power_window_30_amp_fuse_blowing.html

I had determined that the fuse would not blow if I operated each window from the switch on its door. After getting the car to my work area I was able to operate all the windows (including the driver's) from the appropriate switches without the fuse 8 failing. I tugged and pulled at the wire bundle going from the door to the body while operating the windows and all seemed fine. I added a little load on the motor by using my hand to increasing the resistance on the glass movement with no effect.

I took the block of switches out and took the driver's switch apart to clean it up. Two of the four contacts were black from arcing. I polished all of the contact areas and put it back together for good measure. My experience in the past was that when the contacts were burned like that the switch simply wouldn't make a connection and the window motor failed to engage.

I also found that I had misrepresented which fuse was showing signs of having been hot. It was not fuse 17 it was fuse 16 which is associated with the blower motor. I am confused as to why there are two fuses listed with the blower motor both 16 and 6. That is a mystery to be explored at a later date.

Thanks for the help in chasing the fuse 8 problem. My experience is that electrical problems seldom go away they are just intermittent. So until the next time.....
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal








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    Update: Power window fuse 8 blowing.

    Hi Randy,

    I just won the lottery too, and able to login.
    So you had a drivers window switch shorting to ground that blew F-8.

    I would have put a new switch for $10.

    Save old dead ATC fuses. You can make a nice connector with a little
    dremeling on the top to expose the legs of the fuse and solder on some wires
    to measure current in fused ATC circuits.

    Take one of those dead fuses and cut it in half. Use it for a gauge in your fuse block at the cabin fan fuse 16. If the board is discolored, 10:1 odds there's a loose arcing pin.
    Pins get loose with repeated extractions and insertions.
    Then they degrade with age and arcing and become resistors and draw current and make a toaster.

    You can extract the pin from the fuse block with a thin straight slot screwdriver made out of a stainless bicycle spoke and tighten NOT CRUSH
    with vise grips. Dave Barton to the rescue for new pins if you need them.
    Do Penetrox-A on the pins. It improves conductivity while deterring corrosion
    and the nasty results.

    I lost your email with a crashed SSD, and crappy backup here, or I would have been yacking with you before.

    Best, Bill









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      Update: Power window fuse 8 blowing.

      Hhhhhwwwwhhhhhurks nau!!!!

      Finally, a thankful reason for yesturday's Thanks Giving.

      I had a stale sweet potato pie forom Walmart and a pork chop.

      So, today, MuriKa' municipal sewer systems strain. Or not.

      No ayyyyyyyyg nawg. Kans of WY-state beer in Shy-Annnne, Why―Ω―meeeeng.

      Yup, where the wires bend at the door, like the drive door tube that bends the most-est. Doubtful failed regulator motor. Maybe funky wire loose and ganging out. Check grounds? Check the down relay and up relay, unless 240?

      Brickboard wurkz! Really Hhhhhwwwwhhhhhurks nau!!!!





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