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AC compressor barely spinning 200 1990

Hey guys, my AC has been working great and suddenly it didn’t seem as cold, but then I smelled a burning smell and fuse blew. Open the hood and turned off the AC and everything was fine. I turned on the AC and the compressor clutch engaged I suppose, but the compressor was barely spinning like maybe five revolutions a minute. Are there any adjustments I can make with the compressor on the car or does this mean time for a new compressor?

I appreciate anyone’s advice.








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AC compressor barely spinning 200 1990

time for a compressor.








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AC compressor barely spinning 200 1990

Hi,

Your symptoms appear odd to me. The magnetic coil that drives the compressor is the only thing that should get somewhat hot while running.
But worse if shorting internally.
If it’s doing that it will create less magnetism and that would explain some slippage and more heat down there because the clutch plate will be now slipping.

When say you smelled things burning …. Was it more outside the car right off when you opened the hood?
The smell can eventually come through the air vents into the cabin.
I suppose the fan blower and the compressor system can be on two separate circuits. We need to know more details about which or what fuse blew.

The compressor has a delay relay in between the panel fuse and the magnetic coil so that refrigeration doesn’t load up the starter and load the engine at once. A little overthinking any issues arising from that scenario but it was done anyway.
If your AC ever just fails to do anything that relay stops everything. I bypassed on my 1986 years ago because it quit while on the road but that car uses a thermostat to control the compressor whereas the orifice cars rely on the LPS not to frost back.
The relay can be operated through by low pressure switch alone to opens and closes magnetic coil.
I have never questioned that in any wiring diagrams so don’t trust me to know what I’m talking about!

I don’t have a diagram but to be electrically correct the system has to be fused back to the door hinge panel or have a fuse in between someway or another.

When you say a fuse blew can you tell us which number in the fuse panel.

The connector you see outside by the compressor is just that. I have not seen a fuse there.
If you saw a small packaged device down there with the clutch coil, I believe it to look more like a capacitor/condenser filter to reduce sparking of switches.
I could be wrong for what it really does?
Even might be a slow to blow fuse component. I just don’t know.

Either way, if you smelt something out there, it’s probably the magnetic wiring inside the coil pack.

It seems to me that You will have to see if the shaft with the inner plate can be turned by hand fairly freely.
This is when the clutch and the car is off, of course! 😵‍💫
There are six thumb sized pistons in there riding against a wobble plate. You will not be really compressing anything fast enough so there should only be a mechanical resistance.

When compressors go bad belts burn and fuses don’t stop that.
So I suspect, the magnetic clutch ring is a prime suspect. 🤭
Now if the clutch plate had too much gap, no more than .020 allowance, then it could have overheated the clutch assembly that includes the coil works around it.

All of it could be Called a Domino effect? 🤫

Phil







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