You all are correct. Its the electrical switch. Using a flat blade screw driver and ensuring to press the little button in all the way, is very catchy and sometimes will not turn at all. I bought this switch only a year ago. The original was working but often had to jiggle it to get good contact. Not bad for a 42 year old switch.

The mechanical lock by it self works good but feels like it could use some lubricate.

I'm really resistant to buying another electrical switch. I absolutely hate how difficult it is to change them, and how often is that going to be? The alternative would be a couple of separate switches capable of connecting 14 GA wires.

Thanks Art, I reviewed your site on removing the key switch. I'm glad I didn't go that way unnecessarily.

Remove the instrument cluster and it will be much easier to get at the two screws on the back of the ignition switch. A mirror and good light will help you see what you're doing through the rats nest of wires. Be careful not to drop the screws and turn it into a treasure hunt (why do I know this), so remove the under dash panel just in case. With any luck you won't need to go upside down under the dash with the blood rushing to your head, although I've sometimes decided to do this for a moment just to get the lower screw started and do the final tightening when too many wires are in the way from above. A double ended offset [Z] slot screwdriver can be of help, especially with the lower screw.

Note that yours is the early switch p/n 9203247, which is no longer available in the Volvo parts chain. You may find genuine Volvo ones on eBay in old stock. The only identified aftermarket switch I see available at the moment is the one distributed under the MTC name, apparently made by Ronak. MTC is often listed as OEM (meaning OEM quality), rather than the OE supplier. IPD sells it, plus it's currently available on Amazon for quite a bit less.

Your thought about wanting to use a bunch of separate switches to avoid the chore of installing a new ignition switch gave me a chuckle. I had visions of a row of toggle switches in the dash. Like a space rocket launch you'd call out to the passengers, "Systems On!", "Ignition On!", "Firing the Rockets!", "We have Ignition!", "Ready for Liftoff!"
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Thanks everyone for your advice. I have the upper and lower plastic covers off the steering column and the lock is sticking out an inch or so from the metal dash. I've felt around it outside and inside the dash and haven't detected a pin or anything else that might retain the lock. Unfortunately the green manuals don't go into anything but removing the entire lock and "dead bolt" that locks the steering. Because of the deadbolt, the entire assembly has to come straight out of the side. So, the column would have to come out to remove it.

I'm going to remove the electrical switch and try using it drive the car. The steering column is not locked with the key in the #3 position. I purchased the switch from IPD and installed it about a year ago. The old switch was intermittent and I had to wiggle the key sometimes to make good contact.

John, I am skeptical of your issue being in the lock cylinder without your first removing the switch. The fact you can move the key from KP-II to KP-III to crank has me thinking you should suspect the electrical switch (that you now have experienced changing) is broken.

If you're right, access to the lock itself isn't that bad.

http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw.html
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"When they tell me I'm too old to do something, I attempt it immediately." -Pablo Picasso

Art, I think you may well be right. A search turned up the identical problem a few years ago on Matthew's site and it was a faulty ignition switch that had recently been replaced.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=92615
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

Oh boy, you sure got some bumps on your pickle this morning. 🥴

I don’t know about having to pull the whole steering column at this point but I will bet the lock cylinder is pinned on one side somewhere around the perimeter of the aluminum casting.
That pin holds the entire lock cylinder. It will look like a dimple in the casting.

Maybe they have made in such a way as to make it hard to drill out. IE located between the space area towards the dashboard.
This would be a handy time for a small right angle drill attachment.

I’m trying to think of what has jammed the tumblers inside the slot so badly.
Have you tried lots of silicone spray to flush out any bits or shavings of worn tumblers?

Phil

Do eliminate the electrical switch as the cause 1st.

1 of former customers recently had the same issue and his repair shop determined it was the lock assembly, so we helped him get a good used ignition lock cylinder from a Turbobricker.

In the meantime, I suggest you disconnect the battery at negative terminal when the car is not in use.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com