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240 center brake light problem

Hello all,
My center brake light on my 1991 240 wagon only works when the tailgate is halfway or the whole way up. When it is down past halfway or closed the center brake light goes out and the bad bulb dash light comes on. Any ideas on how to fix it? Thanks








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    240 center brake light problem

    Should be brake and plate light are the left harness. Wiper and lock are the right harness. Both are still available as Genuine Volvo (will last much longer) and ProParts Sweden (quite adequate for everyday use and the ones I've used the last few times I did this job).

    Tips:
    o Definitely a two person job the first time you do this to keep the tailgate under control and avoid damage. Last three times I did it by myself being extra careful.
    o To get the panel off, you need to remove the plastic handle to remove the plastic surround. The handle often won't come off without damage, so slit the surround (I recall top center made the smallest slit) using a razor or serrated knife to be able to twist it over the handle without breaking it. Careful not to work in the cold as they can be brittle (especially the beige ones). Warm with a hairdryer if needed. Use a bit of butyl caulk/putty behind the split when you put it back.
    o Work your way around popping the pins straight out of the metal trying to grip close in on both sides of the pins with two blades so as not to tear the pressboard. There are trim tools meant for the job.
    o Support the open tailgate with a step ladder and boxes so it won't twist and damage the other hinge.
    o Always keep a folded blanket or towel wedged between the open gate and the roof to protect the paint.
    o Stretch the corner of the roofliner out and off the surrounding metal roof lip either with (clean) fingers or carefully inserting a blunt hook (to grab above the plastic hem strip). Again, best done when warm, use a hair drier if needed. You need only 6"-8" of corner free to get at the fasteners and connector.
    o Two bolts up underneath needing a socket (on a short extension) plus you may need an extra large Phillips as I recall.
    o Once the hinge is off check the pin for wear and slop. A sloppy hinge speeds the demise of the flex wire and affects a proper tailgate seal. If it's really bad they should ideally be replaced, but they're difficult to source and not cheap. Two styles, early chrome and later black anodized, different left/right, same fitment for all 140/240 years. I see IPD still has the left one available in chrome for over $200, saying the right chrome one is available by order for Volvo (I don't believe it as they're shown as NLA in the Volvo parts chain). The black ones are seemingly still available in the Volvo parts chain and from Genuine Volvo suppliers, similarly expensive, well over $200. Use a bit of moly or lithium hinge grease.
    o When you replace the wire harness, not too tight, not too loose, so it won't pull or buckle when bent closed.
    o Just a little bit of putty around the roof hole under the plastic will keep water out.
    o Consider opening up the other hinge and sliding the good cable back an inch or so to move the old flex point away. I've even added a little wire in the gate to be able to do this a second time. Better to simply replace both harnesses now that you've got it open. The second one usually goes within two years if you just leave it.
    o Check final adjustment of the hinge by closing the tailgate over newspaper strips and pulling them out to check the seal.
    o Pat yourself on the back for having now mastered this well known 240 issue.

    BTW The 700/900 wagons do not have this problem. It was a well known problem even in the 145s (same hinge) and Volvo should be ashamed of never having changed the 245 tailgate wire feed design in almost 20 years of production. Every hatchback in the world had this figured out by then. It would seemingly have been so simple. Some people have run a separate cable in a horizontal rubber sleeve, but it's a pain to feed the wires. Everyday auto run wire is not good for this job and the lower (thicker) the guage, the worse it is. Copper hardens under bending and under heat when being soldered. The strands get brittle and break. If you ever try to mend a flex cable, get fine stranded meter/instrument test lead wire, available in bulk lengths and a couple of gauges if you shop around.

    --
    Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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      240 center brake light problem

      Thanks so much for taking the time to provide such detailed instructions Dave. It is people like you that keep our old Volvo's on the road. Keep up the good work!








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        240 center brake light problem

        You're welcome.

        One tip I forgot to mention and that's checking the ground connections in the hinges, which often break, even before the harness wires. The chassis ground for the tailgate electricals is a black wire riveted to each side of the hinge. If both break, you can lose the electricals. If one breaks, best to make an attempt to mend it before the second breaks. You can try pinching/chiselling the rivet studs more narrow to get the tab off and then flare them back down over a new crimp round terminal. Alternatively, just bare the wire near the tabs and use crimps, like little copper ferrels, not long barrel crimps. You can try black wire, maybe 14-16 guage stranded of the best quality you can find used by the pros, but better yet is the test lead wire as I mentioned (which is what I bought it for). Or try using braided wire which at one point I think Volvo used. Braided copper wire of assorted widths is sold in small coils for solder removal and is one possible option if you can't find steel braid, preferably stainless.
        --
        Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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          240 center brake light problem

          Hi Dave,
          I just turned 72 Jan. 21st, So when I say you are so cool Dave I mean in the best way possible. You really have given me a way to do this and save a lot of time which gives me more time to ride waves in Pawleys Island, SC. That is what I like to do not work on cars even though I love them. Have a 2013 C30 Polestar, A passion red 2002 V70, and my white 1991 240. Red, white and blue Dave Swed style.
          Thanks!!!








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          240 center brake light problem

          Hi Dave,
          I just turned 72 Jan. 21st, So when I say you are so cool Dave I mean in the best way possible. You really have given me a way to do this and save a lot of time which gives me more time to ride waves in Pawleys Island, SC. That is what I like to do not work on cars even though I love them. Have a 2013 C30 Polestar, A passion red 2002 V70, and my white 1991 240. Red, white and blue Dave Swed style.
          Thanks!!!








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    240 center brake light problem

    More than likely the wire harness that powers the 3rd brake light is broken where it passes through the hinge. I don't recall offhand if that's the right or left hinge for that wire. - Dave








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      240 center brake light problem

      Any idea how to repair or get at the wires? Would I need anew wire harness?








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        240 center brake light problem

        As was pointed out replacement harnesses are available. The old harness is repairable if that appeals to you. I wrote up my procedure years ago, but it still applies to making the repair today.

        Randy

        I have repaired the wiring in the tailgates of the 240's three times. Each time I reused the harness on each side by simply splicing in about 12 inches of wire. The original harness is a multi strand wire of high quality. The failures in the harness will be at the flex point through the hinge. This repair will involve positioning a new portion of the original harness through the flexing area at the hinge.

        Start by removing the interior panel on the tail gate and locating the lower end of the one of the harnesses. Unplug each wire and cut each wire off about 2 inches from the end. Strip the wire, slip on a piece of heat shrink tubing and solder the 2 inch piece to the 12 inch splice then shrink the tubing. Do this for all the wires on that side. Then slip on another piece of heat shrink tubing and solder each new assembly to the CORRECT original wire in the harness and shrink that tubing. You now have a harness on one side that is 12 inches too long.

        I do one side at a time without removing the tailgate. Some people like to remove the tailgate and lay it on a surface that won't scratch the finish. I don't want to wrestle with 75 pounds of tailgate. I rest the tailgate on a 4 foot stepladder after removing the gas struts. You can take one hinge loose at a time this way and complete one side before doing the other.

        The headliner is removed at the corners to reveal the nuts that hold the hinges to the roof. Simply grasp the headliner at the corner, pull back and then down and it begins to come loose. Notice how the rigid plastic sewn to the edge fits up into and behind the metel lip (very slick setup, easy to remove and replace). Loosen and remove the two fasteners on each half of the hinge (two on the roof side and two on the tailgate). Check your balance point on the ladder carefully as you remove the final fastners on the hinge to make sure the tailgate doesn't move too much and stress the ONE attachment point you still have.

        Unplug the upper end of the harness and pull the wires up through the roof panel. There is one connector that is a tight fit. After you have all the wires pulled through and on the top of the roof you can pull the harness up and take up that extra 12 inches in length. Cut the connectors off of each wire (again leaving about 2 inches of wire on each one)and do the solder/heat shrink routine just below the area where the wires were broken. Push the connectors back down through the roof and reattach them. Replace the hinge (try to leave a little extra slack in the harness in the hinge so as not to stress it any more than necessary when opening and closing the tailgate). I siliconed the area under the hinge to prevent leaks.

        One side is completed at this point and the other side just involves doing it again. The first time I did it the total repair time was 3 hours. The second time only took 2 hours. The third time I didn’t watch the clock.

        Good luck.

        --
        Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal








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        240 center brake light problem

        It's a little scary to do --- the headliner needs to be released from the perimeter. At the very corner pinch the headliner tightly and gently pull it down and away from the corner - it only has to move a little bit to get released. Once one area is cleared of the "ridge" it can get worked around easily. You only have to pull it a few inches around to expose the harness. That's the easy part. The trim panel on the hatch needs to come off and you may need to remove the hinge altogether. The harness should get replaced (don't know if they're still available)---or you can trim the upper end see if you can get enough "virgin" harness through the hinge and then redo the upper connections -- or you can fudge it altogether and avoid future grief by running the wires through the headliner. I'm not so fussy and did it that way on my '93 245. The external "loop" needn't be very long and never interferes with opening/closing or loading cargo. - Dave








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      240 center brake light problem

      I agree with Dave, you have wire(s) broken inside it's insulation.
      The wires will break where it flexes around the hinge.
      You'll want to repair the break at the hinge.

      You need to remove some trim to see the harness.
      The harness is routed via the driver's side tailgate hinge.
      You likely have a broken Brown/Black plus wire and/or a Black ground wire.
      Tug and wiggle the wires while watching the center light to see which one or both need repair. Use high quality stranded wire for the replacement.

      For good info to do wiring repair check www.davebarton.com
      He has write-ups of the supplies and tools needed to do wiring repairs
      He has a full line of parts and supplies.

      Avoid cheesy crimp connectors, stick with high quality USA parts.
      There's some ratty crimps on the market that are unreliable.

      Good luck, Bill







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