I rcently bought an 89 244 for three hundred dollars. It has not run for eight years. It was not running so I had it towed to a local garage to see if my mechanic could determine what the problem is with the car. He is not a Volvo specific mechanic but he is very capable.

He had a go at it today and found a number of confusing issues. He was unable to get it running.

1. No power at fuse four - the fuel pump
2. No ground at the coil. Power on both terminals.
3. There is power at both wires to the injectors
4. The crank position wires are showing one bared wire.

His scanner will not work on a car of this vintage.

So. . . Any ideas or perhaps a plan to run down the issues? Can a scanner be purchased, for example? And the bared wire reminded me of my 82 GLT and its biodegradable wires. Hope this issue was not still happening in 1989.

I could just give up on it and send it to the scrap yard but I would rather give it a go and see if I can get it running. It has a good body and interior and might be a fair runner.
Bob

copied from one of my previous posts-


when it cranks and doesn't start, does it have spark? hear the fuel injectors click?

if no to both, it's the crank sensor.

if yes to spark but no to injectors, probably the fuel pump relay. needs further diagnosis to confirm.

if yes to injectors but no spark, then it could be the amp you replaced or the coil, cap, etc. again needs further looking.

if yes to both, then i suspect again the fuel pump relay. it can run the injectors without running the pumps OR 1 of the pumps has died, tank pump or main pump. again , more testing.

now classic crank sensor failure is gets hot, shuts off, cools off and starts. the other items mentioned are USUALLY fail completely, no start again. if i have to use the dartboard for an lh 2.4 no start, crank sensor wins. good luck, chuck.

I agree crank sensor. Put it this way, for "power" to appear at fuse 4 a lot of things have to work: Crank sensor, starter, ezk unit, ecu, red wire including 25A blade fuse socket, and FI relay. That "power" at fuse 4 turns on the fuel pumps.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Why do dogs love humans?
They don’t, they just like biscuits.

Bang on Art. Mechanic changed the crank position sensor after reading the commentaries from Brickboard and she sprang to life. Thank you!

Bob

Hi Bob,

No power at fuse 4 suggests a dead fuel pump relay. As I recall with the 1989 240s, the white fuel pump relay lives behind the glove box, buried up to the left between the firewall and defrost ducting, either the first or possibly the second relay buried behind it. My preference for replacement is the white KAE fuel pump relay, but the Striebel (Volvo OEM) ones are next best. Or you can attempt to re-flow the main solder joints in the existing relay with a 90% chance of success.

Any kind of visible damage to the CPS sensor and cable sheathing spells doom. I'd replace it without thinking further. A number of good replacements are available from aftermarket parts houses. My personal preference at the moment is the Facit one from Italy that I first got from Chapman here on the Island, so likely available from local distributors like Metrix or Altrom. I got my second Facit off Amazon.

Hopefully it won't be too hard getting that '89 240 running. One more notch to add to your long Volvo belt if you do and a heck of a good bargain at that price. Haven't seen your old 242 around town in recent times, but I do keep an eye out for it.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Morning Dave,

It runs! Curtis replaced the sensor at the aft end of the engine following your commentary and she roared back to life and I drove it home day before yesterday.

Thank you, Dave!

I was very much hoping I would get a reply from you Dave, and perhaps Spook. I will bring your thoughts to my local mechanic today. I would love to get a start because I think the car has the potential to run for another thirty years or so yet. At least to the end of the gas driven era of private cars!

If Curtis reckons the car is beyond his capabilities and my budget, do you happen to know of a Volvo guru who might be able to take this car on? I will do everything I can up here but if nothing prevails I would conside a tow to Victoria.

Bob

Hi Bob,

When you talk to the mechanic about the no-start

1) Deal with the CPS first. The LH 2.4 ECU won't activate the fuel pump relay without a CPS signal during cranking. That could easily be the entire problem. If you hadn't said the cable was damaged, I'd say to use the diagnostic test you can easily run at the OBD connector to verify a CPS signal (in the FAQ here)

2) Next step, listen under the car for the fuel pump to run for a second or two to prime fuel pressure when you switch the ignition on (KP-II) which will verify the fuel pump relay and pump work.

3) if it still won't sputter, remove the connector off the AMM (MAF to some mechanics) and attempt to restart in "limp home mode" which would indicate a cooked AMM.

Those are by far the three most common no-starts in that 240..After that, more serious diagnostics are needed to isolate the problem to the fuel or ignition side. Post back with the results for further guidance.from me and others.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Morning Dave,

Would you know if this car is equipped with a Hall sensor? Or do I need to send you a V.I.N? I photocopied the Volvo 700 hot start problems diagnosis and repair. Hope it is not too different for the 240.

YV1AX8840K1379627 is the V.I.N.

Bob

p.s. my 940 is still in Ladysmith undergoing a head replacement. Been there since Remembrance Day! Driving my summer Jag.

Hi,

I will chime in on what Dave Steven has said and for you to go for a new CPS.
I have used some from AIP Electronics with no problems. As I remember they were about $25 on Amazon. I have prime that makes them worth buying over E bay or other sites.
I bought three back in 2018 as I have just recently used my last one on my 1993.
I think I will buy a couple more, as for me, that’s a high failure rate.

As far as the fuel pump running for a second or so after turning the key on to the second position may not happen on the 1989 model.
It is my belief that the feature of pressuring the fuel rail over the injectors was not in place until my 1991 or the year before. I have never confirmed this production change in the ECUs.
So, don’t be surprised if that doesn’t happen.
Maybe someone can plug in better information on this thought.

There is a nice post on Art Benstein’s web site Cleanflametrap.com.
For the fuel relay itself yes, it is a contender to be the next problem as Dave has said.
As far as making the pumps run that can be forced by using a jumper wire in the drivers side fuse panel.
It’s a simple test as he jumpers the ends of fuses four and six together.

When it comes to the 240s, he has provided a lot of information to keep the cars on the road probably as long as air cooled Volkswagens engines without rebuilding them. 😊
It might have been there or on in some a post involving Art’s input about the priming mode.

I do pretty well at remembering important stuff but the details of how it’s in my head and how it got there isn’t so much like it use to be.
I’m pretty sure that everything I do or have done is not all of my own thinking!

Ours brains are always taking in data and storing it for a recall but more of it can be at the top to be readily accessible than the rest. But there’s a back up system is in play with our subconscious.
You will think of a solution and have no idea exactly how it came about.
Phrasing or tips from some past conversations, with others, just slide in.
The Brickboard or plain-ole’ networking has sped up technologies vastly.

I still can wake-up after a nights rest and when I have a thought about what I was thinking about the day before, an idea will jump out there.
This is before I have even walked outside, to see any clear blue sky! 🤔😊

Fixing up this car, to run again, will just take a few mornings! I hoping this for the cars sake! 👀
There is plenty of help and information out there but the effort will pay you back handsomely. 🤫

It may be the only reason I look as good as I do for my age, as I have a horn too! 😊
Gook luck,

Phil

(Wow, yet another double post. The bbd server can sometimes be slow these days. Also the bbd cookie handler is not getting along with the latest Firefox iOS browser, sometimes even Chrome. Seems I need to clear my bbd cookie once or twice a day lately.)

Hi Dave

Yes I have to clear out my Safari history or I start getting those 403=error codes.

I usually happens right when I need to post as well.

I have learn to copy my postings to my notes to save them just in case it happens.

I have noticed today the BB is reacting very slowly to requests in threads and other issues that seem to plaque it. Jarrod works to fight google off. He has posted about it sometimes.

Yep, the internet is a Cookie Monster and that is using up everyone data allowance.
Especially if you are limited by giga bytes or by the fact of wanting to spend more cash out your pocket to buy more commercialized data.
It infuriates me with the increase in advertising for them to use at will!

My wife I just replace my iPhone S with an 2022 SE for $400. She said, the S that was old phone and not secure as we family share. She claimed it was an entry point.
I have refused to go to her ever bigger iPhones sizes for years.

Now I get advertisements, between article pages, using up my one giga data per month that also went up $6 right after valentines month.
More than my heart ❤️ is red over that marketing strategy.
Internet should be free, as TV use to be, to put up with commercials.

Phil

No Hall sensor. Basically all North America market 1989-on 240s had B230F engines with Bosch LH 2.4 injection (or a few early '90s B230F w/manual trans having the similar LH 3.1) using a CPS sensor on the bell housing to detect rpm and timing. Your 940 was B230F with Bosch as I recall, so basically the same powertrain as your '89 240 and with similar issues, so the 700/900 FAQ here is perfectly useful for diagnosis. For body, interior, brakes, and suspension, much will be in common with your old 242, so you'll be awakening all those old brain cells as you get familiar with it.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

People who are a lot more capable than I am will come along with better suggestions and electrical issues are not my strong point.

However, I will tell you that there is an onboard OBD on this car and collecting those codes will be a good start. The FAQs have instructions as well as explanations of the codes.

The crank position sensors on the cars are pretty picky. If the wiring is deteriorated a new sensor is in your future.

You bought the car at scrap price and if the body and interior are serviceable I really hope you are able to get it running. The 240's are enjoying a resurgence in value so you can spend some money in getting it running without being under water with it. Good luck.

Randy
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Morning, Randy,

My mechanic took your advice and replaced the crank position sensor and she sprang to life! I drove it home day before yesterday.

Thank you for your input!

I’m glad you got the car running and saved it from being crushed.
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Thank you, Randy,

I will bring your thoughts with me when I visit the mechanic today. Much appreciated.

Bob