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oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

in an italian forum looking at my engine bay some guys say that our caburetors need to be "lubed" opening the cap higlighetd here in red



using "some oil". they say the type is not really relevant, the main thing is that this stick has to be "wet".

effectively, I simply "dipped" the bottom of the stick in dex3 Atf and the car at cold start used less time to have a regular idle after removing choke. The idle on the car is quite regular but I felt a better crank on following cranks.

My question are...
- is it so necessary to make this thing or is a "mith", I suffered a placebo effect? :P
- there is some preferred oil to put there? and what about if I don't know what was (if it was) already there?
- ideas on how much frequently it has to be checked?
- how much to put in? here's my stick bottom.










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    oil in carburetor reservoir? how are your engine mounts? 200

    Please check the motor and transmission mounts.

    The engine appears to be sagging rearward towards the firewall bulkhead.

    The small motor mount on the engine carburetor side is the first to fail as the engine lift up from it when accelerating. Your gearbox mount may be squished.

    The hot output top radiator hose tube appears a wee bit stretched.

    Or I am not sure and am hallucinating as my last 1970s 240 left me in 2001.

    How is the ImgBB image hosting with 32mb limit?



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      oil in carburetor reservoir? how are your engine mounts? 200

      Hi, I'll take a look on next visit on the mechanic. Engine is not "moving" or rattling on moving or accellerating, nor having stranvge vibrations at idle.
      true that I don't drive the car from a lot of time so I may not be so "sensible" to engine vibrations on that car as I'm on my other ones, but I can feel it stable and without any vibrations. True they're 40+ but car has very few mileage.

      Thanks for the advice, is now in my checklist!

      ImgBB is something that reminds me of the old imageshack. I don't use it a lot, only for forums that don't have own image hosting. I tend to save important pics on my hd because I'm afraid they will be lost sometimes :)








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    oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

    More properly called piston dampers, many back in my Amazon days just called these dampers and the slides were damping cylinders. I never used engine oil, always ATF, but it may not matter a whole lot.

    Doing a little reading, almost any kind of oil will work and recommendations are all over the map. You could probably use Crisco oil from the supermarket and not notice a difference, but it would soon go rancid.

    I just refreshed my memory that there was a special SU Damping Oil known as SU20. It was a type of dashpot oil and quite thin. The genuine SU brand appears to still be available online. I recognize the bottle, now recalling I started with a small bottle from a local dealer service, probably a partial bottle the mechanic sold me, but ATF was cheaper and easier to come by so switched. There seem to be various opinions of an SAE multiweight with equivalent viscosity characteristics. On place says OW100. Another says 0W50 dissappears more more slowly.

    Gerhardt's Volvo Problem Solver recommends using ATF for the SUs, as do many, and filling to about 1/4" from the top (using the plunger as a dipstick). That should last quite a while. I rarely needed to top mine up to ensure the piston was always immersed in oil, just checked it at every oil change. It also mentions keeping the slide area clean. Occasionally I would flush mine, wipe it out carefully and fill with fresh ATF. I would have used a bottle brush to get any residue loose from the bottom. Knowing me, I probably tried using rock wool to polish the walls.

    If other fluids are used, like motor oil, then I would go for a viscosity similar to ATF to achieve a similar damping affect for acceleration and economy of fuel use. ATF is thinner and higher overall viscosity than 10W30, apparently equivalent to about 5W20, some say 0W20. Detergents and additives in motor oil will mostly just be along for the ride in that application.

    Consistent viscosity over a wide range of temperatures is what's needed for uniform damping, but at the same time having a slightly variable viscosity affecting damping under very hot or cold conditions may benefit running, such as at cold start. I'm not sure which of ATF or 5W20 would be better in that regard, or if the difference would be measurable, but whatever the Swedes recommend is what I would do.

    Hopefully Planetman Eric follows the 240 area of this forum and will chime in with his sage advice.
    --
    Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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      oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

      Don't be tempted to fill to the top of the dome. Obviously the damper will displace the oil and you don't want it to disperse internally or try to. Take the damper out and look inside. You will see a tube. Oil/ATF just needs to be up to about 1/4"/5mm from the top. When the damper barrel goes into the tube it will displace some oil and so the tube will be filled. They rarely need topping up and are tolerant of being at a low level. As long as you can feel some resistance when you move the damper up and down there is enough oil in there. Move damper slowly. Don't tug it or you will lift oil out over the sides of the tube. With old age the diaphragm itself is prone to splitting. This may be due to too much oil getting on it. When it is split the vacuum won't lift the piston to varying degrees and you will get very poor performance or bad starting. Diaphragms are cheap so have a couple handy. Buy genuine replacements. Change now or wait for problems. Your choice. It's an easy job but be careful not to drop any screws!.








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    oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

    google stromberg carb oil. i think you'll find 10 w-30 is fine.








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      oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

      To go a step further by way of explanation - inside the dome there's a piston that rises and falls according to throttle position. At the bottom of the piston is a tapered metering "needle" which rides in tube which carries the gasoline. The higher the needle rises, the more fuel can be passed to the motor. The "dipstick" and its "piston" at the end are in a fixed position while the tube it rides in rises and falls with the metering needle piston. Oil in the tube keeps the metering needle piston from rising too quickly causing a "dead" spot in power. By rising slowly the fuel flow allows acceleration -- the function of an accelerator pump in what you might call "normal" carbs. 10-30 motor oil works well as Porkface mentioned - ATF or 3-in-1 household oil can work just as well. If you become sensitive to the performance you may note a difference depending on the season - summer/winter. You should check the oil level weekly until you get familiar with how often you need to add depending on the driving you do. - Dave








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        oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

        Thanks, appreciated your explain.
        ATF Is the simplest solution for me because I have It there from my other car but if there Is some Better option no problem in finding It.
        I use that car from a very short time, It has 100.000km on the clock and i'm not planning to use It much more than my father did these 40 years, and i'm quite sure no one ever checked It if not during oil services... So a weekly check is quite useless.
        Generally speaking Is a refill (and checking)that have to be done every 100, 1000, 10000km? Just to have an idea of the kind of maintenance.








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          oil in carburetor reservoir? 200

          You can make it simple. Install the oil of your choice to the proper level and then drive the car. The proper level -- when you insert the rod and piston (what I called the dipstick") it should drop in with no resistance until the last half to 3/4 inch of engaging the threads. At that point you will feel the resistance of the oil. Now drive it until it misbehaves - spitting or stuttering on take off or when accelerating on the road. The mileage you covered since topping off the oil will be your interval. Realize--you are dealing with 100+ year old technology. It was still around when your car was new because it works--not because it's maintenance free. The fuel injected models that superseded the carbureted versions did so for greater performance and control for emissions. I love my 1969 144S with its twin SU carbs (similar in operation to the Stromberg). To replace my fuel system would require a mechanical fuel pump and 2 carburetor kits. Do do the dame for my 2002 S40 I'd need an expensive electric fuel pump, 4 new fuel injectors and I don't know how many electric relays and control units. - Dave







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