Does it sound like this tractor?

Go to yuotube and enter -

traktor racing volvo terror

I had similar issues and found it by pulling out the fuel rail , setting it upon some clean cloths, best to do outside with a proper gasoline rated extinguisher at the ready no hot engine , no smoking be careful!


anyway I ordered new injector seals, you can get a kit with the pintle, a couple of washers, there is a filter in them too..

pulled the fuel rail, reconnect the wires unhooked to remove it and just sat it to one side.

put a nice clean shop cloth under each injector.

turn the key on to crank but just a very short burst, you are spraying fuel !
run around and wathc , you should see a nice neat round spray pattern of fuel on each rag.. now you may see none, if so the injector is stuck closed..

the injectors should shut off immediately, but the fuel rail is intended to save that fuel pressure for the next startup, so if an injector leaks you can see it , look if any are dripping or even spraying fuel out still . Ive had both situations happen..

if an injector sticks open it puts quite a lot of fuel into the cylinder and it will sit there until morning, upon startup you'll get a white cloud of smoke for a block , then the cylinder will clear itself and car will run pretty normal until the next time Its parked for long enough to leak down..

if this keeps happening there is a possibility the raw gas can get into your oil, so of you think that id just do an oil change too.

ive ever heard of it happening but if a cylinder fills with fuel , that could break an engine or maybe blow the head because you cannot compress a fluid.

I've never seen a manual suggest pulling the fuel rail and observing it.. why? because it can be dangerous! so use your head and please don't burn your house down.

there is a more "polite" way. connect a fuel gauge , run it , check fuel pressure , turn it off and see if it maintains fuel pressure, a leaky injector will loose the fuel pressure, there may also be a check valve in some cars its near the fuel pump. it stops the pressure from pushing back toward the pump.. I think if it fails car will run but it may loose some fuel pressure , maybe take another second or so of cranking to fire up..

anyway a telltale sign of a stuck fuel injector is a white cloud on startup for a block or two.. that's what I saw when it happened to me. then its runing on 3 cylinders until it can get the plug dry enough to fire...



I found a bottle I could pressurize, installed a tire valve. it has a tap on the bottom and a hose to connect to the injector, about 1/2" fuel hose. it has a cap I can remove to put fluids in..

I fill it about half way , with carb cleaner, or sea foam.. about a teacup worth ..
then cap it and pressurize to around maybe 20- 30 PSI
then I can hook up my injectors , I just use a 9 V battery to fire them. do not leave it connected, just short bursts.. I can also install the injector backwards and flush it that way.. there is a tool like a sheet metal screw that is to remove the filters. i found that back- flushing showed no blockage,
so left well enough alone with the filters. the tap on the bottom just befoere my 12" hose for the injector is to allow the pressure to get to the injector or shut it off when I'm done my test.


if you like there are places that clean injectors.. you can swap them out with rebuilt or find a local shop that has test equipment. youmight be able ot end them to a local place for cleaning if you dont want to mess about with fuel.

i saw a video where the guy simply found way to connect a can of brake cleaner and a battery to open them and blasted them out that way.

that pintle cap can come off.. if it is not in good condition it will mess up the spray pattern. id just change those they are cheap. careful there is a tiny needle in the center, don't touch it or bump the injector there, if you drop them, it may damage that needle.

if you want you can go observing the spray pattern and get fussy but the main thing is that they do spray a pattern, and don't act like a half plugged up spray can.



when you reinstall the fuel rail use new o rings, the right ones, and soak them with oil so it's not a big fight.

on the fuel rail there is a pressure regulator, it has a rubber hose to vacuum.. if you see fuel in that hose it means the diaphragm inside it is probably torn so replace the fuel pressure regulator if you find that.

Your '89 740 B230F is LH2.4. The Check Engine light with a 1-1-3 code on the diagnositic connector says there's a "fuel trim" issue. The ECU is unable to adjust fuel mix (injector pulses) and timing (advance) to keep combustion within the pre-programmed limits for O2 oxygen sensor exhaust readings. Although it could be faulty injectors, the problem is much more likely elsewhere until you have further condemnation that it's the injectors.

When you say it starts like a tractor, that immediately makes me think of a blown exhaust manifold gasket or worse still a cracked manifold or bust downpipe connection. That could definitely upset the O2 reading and exhaust manifold expansion can dramatically change the leaks once the engine gets hot. Start by thoroughly checking the entire exhaust side for puffy noises and leaks, first when cold then when hot. Use a stethoscope technique if needed, such as listening through tubes and down metal rods to help isolate noises.

You describe intermittent long periods of fairly normal operation followed by periods of very abnormal operation. That part doesn't add up to it being just an exhaust leak unless the tractor noise comes and goes at the same time. Things may well be temperature sensitive, so always think electrical when that happens.

My wild guess at this moment beyond a blown exhaust manifold gasket would be the ignition side, with a badly worn distributor cap/rotor that sometimes gets in the way, possibly bad ignition wire connections or a failing ignition coil that overheats. When was the last time the ignition was checked and attended to? On the fuel starvation side, I'm wondering about a seizing main fuel pump. Is the fuel pump red hot to the touch underneath when this happens? Any chance this only happens with a 1/3rd tank of fuel or less?
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

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