Hi,

Hmmm? 1989 first year of the CPS ignition system and maybe the OBD ONE?

I don’t know if you can get away with removing the EGR without getting the Check Engine Light.
You said you have the EGR valve on the left fender and so does my 1991.
It uses the same valve and it’s controlled by the ECU that creates the CEL.
If that valve gets plugged up with dirt or rotted foam, that’s under its silver cap, you will get a CEL.
The valve couldn’t let air in after the activation was done. So the EGR stayed on.
It doesn’t run all that terribly but the car will not pass an emissions criteria.
Having those two valves responding is what the emission systems cross checking is all about.

That little CEL gave me a good used car to buy because her independent mechanic kept throwing HER money at the problem as it was in good tune.
The light was out as someone kept undoing the small wire from the battery, from the little square box near there. It would stay reset until I left the DMV to go get it smogged. I Found the no cost fix very quickly actually considering it was my first CEL car!

But hey, She in turn made new van payments to Mazda for her kids and not to him. That was almost 20 years ago!
I’ll bet the van is in history too?

Did you get your car under similar circumstances?

You see, the EGR has a temperature sensor built into it. The ECU is expecting to see a temperature change, it doesn’t matter how much of a change but have one. It has to do so in so much time after signaling the valve to open.
This is only in idling mode and it does not affect highway mileages unless something else was wrong to begin with.

At least you out under the hood with hands and not digging at your wallet to get it to run better.

These car are worth gold in not requiring outrageously expensive tune up parts of the newer cars.
I see on a couple 240 Volvo web sites, that have newer Volvos, Porsche, Mercedes and those Bring More Wages cars get for tune up and suspension kits.

Phil

Phil,
Thanks for your reponse. Thanks also to Dave and Kitty.
I have no CEL light after about a month with EGR disconnected. All engine parameters are normal.The 89 240 does have the 2.4. I have read other links that when removing the exhaust port and plugging the intake port you should also plug the vacuum source. There is a very small vacuum line from the EGR valve that terminates at the vqcuum controller. Can I do this at the controller.(much easier)
This is a California car. Emissions is not a problem since I live in a no test State.
Another question. Where is the fuel injection relay? (radio suppression relay) Others have stated that it is in the engine bay, maybe the 89 does not have one?
Thanks a bunch. Bob

Hi,

I will have to say that I too live in a no smog County of California.
It’s every two years if registered in pollution and population riddled counties.
This is only after it the car clears for smog upon buying it in state or from out of state and bringing it in.
It’s a one time thing only.

I would like to caution you a little bit about taking off smog equipment in California, if you may want to sell or title change the car as a gift I THINK it hits the wall in some manner?

If you go to sell the car to someone in the state of California, that person will have to have the car pass a smog test again in any county.
This was the or a “stickler”to whom will be responsible, the seller or the buyer? A lot of squabbling happened.
A compromise caused a rule change that as the vehicle progress upwards every year older, it was dropped from the smog requirement.
The Selling of vehicles became profitable again quickly in California.

With that said it’s not so much a problem, as other states and foreign countries come to the southwest for rust free cars. The state wants cars to go away to keep new car sales up!
It must be working as I see car haulers loaded up with both.
My 240s get to pass lots of cars when in the mountains, as they are on those trucks. 😊

Today if the vehicle cannot does not pass smog or if some or ALL of the equipment is not there then it becomes an issue of a dollar limitation set by the state to get it functioning.
Especially If the manufacturer no longer makes the parts then it “can go to arbitration” and get an exemption. I hear it’s a process though.
I”ll bet there is a fee of some sort built-in but I have never sold a vehicle.

I have bought a couple used from out of state and one in state. Everything was there and all passed.
If out of state, They check serial numbers along with the lights, brakes and safety functions or no title.

As far as the relay you are looking for it under the glove box on the firewall. Up just above the ECU and ICU Of the EKZ system. It is called a system relay that turns on fuel pumps and fuel system that includes the AMM. Most are a white cube relay possibly hanging from a loom above if ever investigated.
They are made as two separate units in one so one side can fail. Some blame bad solder joints but magnetic coils can become intermittent as well from heating up as they age.
The pumps can do it or corroded terminals. It’s worth inspecting.

A bad CPS can cause starting or unexplainable engine shut offs if aged.

The EGR controller valve has two lines to it. The YELLOW goes to the EGR valve port.
It’s the hose on top.
The white line is the intake port for vacuum source and is on the bottom of the valve. Do not reverse.
The portion of the controller valve keeps that white line cut off to the intake until energized, unless it’s stuck open?
But if the lines and the EGR diaphragm are intact, not leaking, it makes no difference to the manifold vacuum. The valve stays NC ….Normally Closed.

The valve applies vacuum but it opens the output line (yellow) and allows air into the EGR valve for it to close again.
This is where the problem can lie with EGR issues or the CEL for smog inspections. Maybe your ECU was a “late bloomer” with the California emissions changes because of the cars “build date.”
You should have a vacuum line diagram sticker out in front by the radiator. It should show vacuum routings.
They were really simple. Maybe too simple? 😊

Back on the fender valve there is a vent port under the gray plastic cap on top that get plugged up.
A foam rubber filter rots and particles get suck into the valve throwing a CEL from the lack of temperature change.
I change it out to a piece of polyester fill. It stays fixed for years at a time but dust is an enemy anytime and rotting foam was a bad choice in this instance.
If the valve got stuck or dirty, the car would have a slight problem with itself in idle mode.
An engine kept in a reasonable good tune usually burns cleanly thanks to the oxygen sensor.
Neglect has its ramifications!

I clean plastic valves or other things with denatured alcohol as a safe rinsing agent and cleaner towards most plastics. But it is poisonous if consumed and some states regulate it to some extent.
Nowadays that’s no surprise! 😵‍💫
Isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol’s common name is mostly water within different volume amounts.
I think it is non poisonous and mostly cheap!
Water is considered a universal solvent and refrigerant but doesn’t burn? We are working on that! 🤔🤫

Then again, “one has to know one’s limitations.” Dirty Harry.

Thank for the feedback it helps dwell away an evening.

Phil

Phil,
Many thanks for your input on the relay. Is this the same relay called the radio suppressant relay? In reference to the EGR vacuum controller, contrary to your message, the white line on our car is on the top and the yellow is on the bottom. The yellow one does go to the EGR valve.I have never been attracted to this, so this is the way it came from the previous one owner from Calif. Should I switch the lines? You also mentioned the vent port filter. How do I get the cap off on the EGR controller for access? The vacuum label on the car is somewhat distorted. Dave Barton in Calif has new ones which I intend to order. For the record, our car is a 1989 244 with 114K miles. Take a short nqp after you answer my many questions! Bob

Hi,

I’ll start with the first question about a radio suppression relay.
I do not know much about them other than what I have read and the headaches they can create.
I can only imagine that it has something to do with suppressing radio frequency interference from the high voltage side of an ignition system.

I think it all came about on the early 700 series with their Regina ignition system as the 700 ran concurrently with the last years of the 240. The 240s did not get them to my knowledge.
The 700s and the newer FWD 850, that Volvo reluctantly had to build to stay alive, caused more turmoil.
The 700 was too GM looking and wasn’t selling well and the 200 series was aged.
The automotive world was running towards FWD. It’s same with the AWD sales.

In 1989 240 the EZK ignition with the CPS came into operation doing away with the Hall effect triggering sensor in the adjustable distributor for timing. Before LH 2.4 that was driven by emissions tightening and programming that adapts to drivers.
The limited editions of LH 3.1 later in 240s was part that evolutionary process that went gang busters.

Now the EGR controlling valve is a lot simpler and it does make a difference which way the nylon lines connect onto the valve as one line vents the diaphragm since it the port on top.
Nylon resists collapsing.
As I remember I found a faint ink-like dot of yellow near that port because I had the valve in hand. It might have been a residual material from a sticker.
You said know how that goes! You must have a nice looking engine bay to order a decal.

I felt it could be easily overlooked at the time too. I think there is a faintly casted Z too
but maybe it’s a code for vacuum? Maybe Add some German accent and it says 😬 Z vacuum…. 🤭?
So I checked it out by testing and thinking how it operated to fill the EGR line with air to close the valve back shut. Cannot keep the vacuum and just wait as the temperature sensor tells the ECU it changes

As I remember, from 2005 👀 it just popped off, I think I used a knife blade to snap it. It did look fragile but looked molded separately from the body too.
Injection molding has some tells, if you study their methods of “how did they do that?”

But by servicing it once since then, I have kept the light off for about another 100k.
I’m thinking your mileage says it’s due or lines are backwards.
Switching will not do anything if the valve is clogged so test it.
I think I used a nine volt battery as it’s my MO on IAC valves.

Yes, my bed time has passed but a nap with a “Q” says you were tired at some time too. 🥴

Phil

Phil's right. 1989 240 is LH 2.4 w/OBD(I) and will likely set a Check Engine for a missing EGR valve and solenoid.

Referring to Bill Garland's ECU table, some LH 2.4 ECU's were listed as for EGR or non-EGR, some it didn't seem to matter.

Referring in the FAQ here to the OBD codes from the ECU on port 2, for LH 2.4 none are listed for an EGR problem, so likely no CEL from it. However the EZK ignition controllers can set a number EGR related codes on port 6 that may set the CEL. Idling issues are noted. I'm not sure what would be involved for disabling it and jumpering at the connector without throwing a code, probably a resistor.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now