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sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

Been a while since I've been on the Brickboard. My daily drivers for the past 8 years have been Audi and BMW - however I still keep the daughter's 89' 240 (Sven) because quite frankly it has been more reliable than the others.

That said I need to replace both the driveline support bushing/bearing and also the dreaded Trailing Arm bushings. I'm certain the latter are completely shot and no longer have any connection within the outer sleeve. My thought is I must fix the TAB first lest the driveline shift with a new bushing and potentially tear it up. The replacement TABs won't arrive till Monday night, I have all parts for driveline repair so could do that first. I won't be driving the 240 much till all the work is done.

Thoughts?

Thanks gents & ladies. The Brickboard has always been my favorite car forum.

Mike
89' 244; 14' BMW X3; Previously 98' S70GLT (best car ever); 88' 245; 95' 944; 93' 244








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    Powerrflex trailing arm bushes 200 1989

    Wondering whether you purchased the blue / purple training arm bushes with the outer shell, meaning you have to remove the outer shell of the old trailing arm bushes, front and rear?

    The urethane bushes pivot around the inner steel tube.

    Use a lot of synthetic silicon grease like SuperLube NLGI 2 in the tube (for caulk guns?). Pack the stuff between the bushing halves. Can help to press in the bushing halves and the (I forget the name now) center polishes steel tube. Yet that grease can be really slickery!

    Didjs get the Volvo or OEM make for the center support donut? What is the center suppoer sealed bearing you used.

    Excellent job using the old bearing to make a press to press down on the replacement bearing center metal section!

    Good luck on the tabs and the rear suspension bushings.

    Else, all is factory stock? Or your springs and stabilizer bars changed on your daughter's 1989?

    Back to wurk ...

    All other rubber bits okay?
    --
    Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert & Gene Siskel






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      Powerrflex trailing arm bushes 200 1989

      The center rubber support bushing for the driveline was from FCP Euro - kit for just over $36. The packaging was labeled Febi Bilstein. The bearing is listed as FAG, not sure if that is the brand.

      The TABs I bought are powerflex purple in color, no outer metal sleeve - they are intended to reuse existing sleeve which in some regards seems easier, we will see when I try to cut the old rubber out... If I could find a way to do so I would try freezing the old installed bushings with the intent to chip it all out. Seems ideal, more likely I'll be using saw blades, dremel tool & things of that nature.

      I'm assuming other bushings are ok - will know more when I get the car jacked again.

      Probably won't get to this till December - car has had these old bushings since I brought it home spring of 2018. It has some other engine issue - could be vacuum leak that I'll work before the bushings. And still driving the BMW most days anyway.








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      sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

      Thanks Phil & Art

      Good explanation on how the rear end is held with the torque rods & everything. I did replace the torque rod bushings with the nice bright orange ones a couple years ago so I've got that going for me - which is nice...

      Took your advice & replaced the center support bearing & big rubber donut yesterday. I got the dremel tool out & ground the inside diameter of the old bearing enough for a nice clearance fit on the driveshaft & made it into a "tool" to drive on the new bearing. Have to say getting that rubber donut on was the hardest part of the job - it did not want to go on... The old donut was torn & the spring was driving the washer into contact with the drive shaft.

      the new purple powerflex trailing arm bushings arrived tonight. Not looking forward to it but in a few weeks I'll cut all the guts out of the existing bushings & slide these into the existing bearing sleeve. Did a similar repair on my first Volvo the 88' 245 many years ago. I don't have the tool to drive the bushings out, and based on the clunk I'm thinking the center sleeve is loose anyway.

      Appreciate the insights you all offer.

      Mike








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      sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

      Hi,

      I have to agree with on wanting to keep a good reliable car under someone’s foot or buns depending on one’s perspective.🤓

      You are not the first to discover that Audi, BMW and the Volkswagen are no longer a people’s or a “folks” car.
      That arrangement above has left reliability in the dust over performances and gadgetry.
      Plug in the facts of reoccurring payments like rentals and the idea to replace it, rather than doing repairs limits one’s availability to create a budget. Not everyone can think like politicians, globally, who’s printing the biggest batch.

      Things have gone that way long after the idea of darning your socks over an incandescent light bulb with needle and thread.
      Now they are removing the light bulbs but I wonder how LEDs are going to work out in ovens. Maybe there will only be solar ones and that you won’t need a light bulb inside?
      That’s going to be rough on the bakery shops @ 3 in the morning. 🤔

      As far as which parts to do first depends on how bad is that driveline to begin with!
      The Universal joints are the biggest worry here.
      The one thing you don’t want to hear is a flopping driveshaft beat between the car and the roadway, especially, in traffic!
      If you start swinging a driveshaft with the engine or even a differential rolling to a stop. Imagine if the driveshaft is pointing forwards and not dragging! 😵‍💫

      Yep those trailing arm bushings are in there tight and if you hear clunks when pulling into driveway ramping approach, then a twisting fight is between the bushings and the two torque rods.

      I don’t think a rear end can get completely out from under a car for the pan-hard rod, torque rods and the trailing arms.
      These are beefy let alone the springs being captured under there by the weight of the car.

      Now that we both recognize what is a foot in our worlds the 240 is still the champion of finding compromise with its design goals of the times. Sensibility has its virtues as time has always proved.

      Your choice but get it done before any of rainy days start, if you are outdoors.
      The driveline can travel those bushings … do not.

      Phil











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        sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

        Having multiple experiences with both jobs, I can't think of any good reason to delay one for the other.

        However, I've wondered the same about the lamp in the oven, Phil.
        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        “Never underestimate the difficulty of changing false beliefs by facts.” --- Henry Rosovsky








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          sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

          Phil & Art,

          Just have to add a couple Lessons Learned from driving the German cars. First I will say when it's running properly the X3 is a blast to drive! The X3 with N55 motor hauls, and I'm not talking about cargo capacity... straight 6 with "twin" turbo. It isn't really a twin, I think it has a low side & high side to enable a quick spool.

          But - and this is a Big But, I can't buy an after market service manual, BMW has managed to keep the data & prevent any publisher from writing manuals. And it is very complex. Already replace battery (programmed the car to it, $tealership), replaced the water p/p and t-stat. Fortunately not behind a timing belt, but still over $600 in parts and for me about 10 hours work (I'm thorough but not quick). Indy shop wanted $2300 P & L. And why do the German's put the thermostat in a Plastic housing way down low on the block! Both of my Audis and this X3 have that potential hazard... I chose this 2014 X3 over an Audi Q5 that lacked the performance. I may keep this till the spring then look for another Audi (I like their 4 cyl turbo motors), or even go for a Japanese suv. But the 240 will still be there in case the replacement Daily fails me. It's slow but comfy and I can't think of any car with the same visibility of a 244 (the 245 was even better).








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          sequence of work - driveline support bushing and trailing arm bushings... 200

          Hi Art. Doing some reading it seems COB LEDs can be good for up to maybe 180 degF, while regular package LEDs maybe a bit less. LEDs apparently also get dimmer with heat. Even on the other side of the oven wall through a glass lens it's likely still too hot. I'm thinking maybe a cluster of a few LEDs on the control board through fibre optics to a domed lens could work. They'd probably have to use expensive all silica fibre which can apparently go above 1100 degF, rather than poly coat fibre only good for maybe 575 degF unless they use a through the wall glass dome. As long as you can get 40 watt incandescent or halogen heat rated appliance bulbs for cheap, including the odd dollar store, then I don't imagine there's any engineers staying up late working on this at the moment. Thinking of LED bulbs, I've got an LED bulb in my old trouble light and no longer have to worry about dropping or knocking it. Last night working under the hood I'd probably have broken three incandescents.
          --
          Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now







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