How can I keep blowing fuse #13 for the directionals when my hazards work fine?
Thanks, Phil
1989 240 114k

Hi Phil,

Fuse 13 blows when the key is on? Or just when you use the turn signal?

Could you have a seat heater problem perhaps with the wiring to the switches in the p-brake console?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Knowledge is knowing loose rhymes with goose and lose rhymes with shoes. Wisdom is making the interpretation without feedback.

Hi Art,
It's as soon as I turn the key on. I pulled the heated seat wiring from the fuse block and the fuse still blows. I am sure it's something that I did since I recently added side markers and eCode headlights and turn signals.
I think it's just odd that the hazards work but the fuse for the directionals blow once the key is on.

I think Art's onto it. I also can't see how it could be the hazards, turn signals or related to e-code headlights & side markers.

Let me guess, when you say it happens when you turn the ignition on, you mean KP-II not KP-I for accessories.

A broken wire at the seat heater switch touching bare metal would seem like a good possibility.

Check the cold side of fuse 13 to see if its got continuity to chassis ground. Under normal circumstances it shouldn't unless the seat heater switch is on and thermal button switch in the seat heater grid is very cold or the turn signal switch is set left/right or there's something else attached to fuse 13 that's enabled. Any other continuity there suggests a seat heater issue.

I'd disconnect the seat heater and try again, just like Art says.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

It is odd, because the difference between powering the turn signals with the hazard switch and powering them without pushing the hazard switch is all behind the dash. Hazard signals have to work without the key, so they run off fuse 9 from unswitched (by the key) battery. I don't see how your mods would short out fuse 13 as a result, if they were all done externally on the body.

With the seat heater wiring disconnected at the fuse terminal, I'd think the only wiring would be the single wire from fuse 13 to the hazard switch -- the blue/red wire. Might be interesting to find out if fuse 13 would remain intact if you turned the key only while the hazards were in use.

But using up your supply of fuses for experiments can be avoided if you substitute a medium sized lamp for the fuse, say a fog light bulb or brake light (2amp) bulb during troubleshooting.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, 'Wow, you're right! I never would've thought of that!'
- Dave Barry