I have a 1983 240 Turbo. I replaced the fuel pump relay and fuel filter a few years ago when I bought it. I noticed that most the of area where the terminals come out of thence pump relay show signs of getting quite hot. The car runs and drives great most of the time. Every once in awhile the car has a hot start issues. I did install a bran new accumulator too. Thinking at this point I should just replace both fuel pumps the hot relay is of major concern. Is there anything else I should look at? Thanks.

Hi,

How many miles do think is on the main pump?
I ask because it has been my experience that around 200,000 the pumps are nearest the end of life for brush wear.
An intermittent failure to start up is a warning sign.

If the main pump has run for any extended length of time with a failed feed pump you take another 20, 000 off the life of it.
Of course this all varies depending on how much the fuel level in tank was above the half way point during its whole life time. The in-tank pump helps compensate for variances in that area.
A sign of a failed in-tank pump can be attributed to a lengthening cranking time especially the closer to empty.
The orange zone on the fuel gauge is on there for a reason to help keep nearly two gallons in the tank.
Across the bottom of the tank it is not very deep.
One for a warning of driving space and one for the pumps! Don’t borrow from the pumps.

I think I have read that a new pump setup (both included) probably draw about 8 or 9 amps of which is not more than the wires can handle to it the pump. But you are right, the connection terminals on the relay can be another indicator. They can get relaxed somewhat from the heating and cooling.
As wear some corrosion preventative paste helps to dissipate heat to some extent.
With it, Surface contact to the surrounding air is increased slightly.

But even more it helps keep the green gremlins from intervening depending on where you live.
I’m suspicious that if there are green trees 🌲 or salty air in your area, you may have some immigrating relatives from Ireland traveling about.
Along with Ireland’s lore and antics I give them more credit, cheerfully, than I would normally. 😳🤔

Have a nice day with a grin!

Phil

Hi Phil,

>the connection terminals on the relay can be another indicator. They can get >relaxed somewhat from the heating and cooling.

I think the relay terminals get beat up when the relays are removed from
the socket. Rocking back and forth to get a relay removed instead of pulling the
fuse block in a 700/900 and prying it up with a tool leads to spreading open
the socket pins. It only gets worse with repeated removal and insertions.

You can make a gauge for the common 0.250" female spade connector used in
relay sockets using a male spade connector crimped and soldered to a piece of
stiff copper wire. If the pins are loose you need to remove the pin and carefully form it back so it's tight. (I use vise grips that to avoid over-doing it)

To remove pins from fuse block sockets you can make a nice removal tool from a
bicycle spoke and just grind a this straight slot screwdriver tapering gently
about 1/2" from the end and slide it down the back of the connector to release the locking barb.

Ron Kwas has a very nice website focused on older Volvos.
http://www.sw-em.com/techarticles.htm
Check out these web pages that are relevant to every Volvo:

http://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes.htm#the_lowly_250_push_on_terminal

http://www.sw-em.com/Deoxit_D5_Additional.htm#my_recommendations

http://www.sw-em.com/voltage_drop_in_headlights_power_in_hex_connector.htm

There's a lot of good stuff to know at his site.

For Derek, Your comments about the fuses is spot on, and see the above links
where he suggests ACZP paste on the fuse sockets and fuses after they're cleaned.
There's corrosion from exposure to the elements and also possible electrolysis
going on with possible dis-similar metals that make the zinc paste a good option.

I wonder how copper based anti seize being a straight up conductor
might stack up with ACZP on 240 style fuse sockets?

I haven't seen troubles like the 240 style fuses with the later style ATC
fuses that started with the 700 series but maybe ACZP paste would be desirable there too? I have noted that the cheap ATC fuses from you know where are un-plated steel, and not like the quality zinc plated OEM variety.
(Don't use the junky ones)

Bill

This problem can also cause the fuel pump fuse to overheat. If it is one of the later plastic bodied fuses, they can soften or even melt. When they soften the contact pressure at the ends reduces and makes them overheat even more. Go out of your way to get an original type ceramic fuse for at least this position in the fuse box. Plastic ones don't look much different but if you give both types a scrape with a sharp knife you'll be able to tell which is which. Beware, plastic ones are often labelled as ceramic. It is possible to swap the fuse link from a plastic to a ceramic body if you are careful.

Hi

Check for loose pins on that fuel relay socket.
The pins can get spread open/corroded and start arcing and
become in the worse case a toaster at the relay socket.
Either repair or replace loose pins.

Get connector parts/pins/wiring info/etc. at www.davebarton.com
He suggests using Penetrox on connectors to deter oxidation
and possible electrolysis on the pins. Info at his extensive site.

You can measure current flow via the fuel pump fuse socket.
I'm not certain if a failing fuel pump draws more current.
But I'm guessing that a healthy fuel pump should draw less than 10 Amps.

Good luck, Bill