Hi all,
It’s been many years since I’ve posted. I now have a 17 year old son who for some reason is into old Volvos?;)
After not finding any buying guides or other info in my searches on the forum, I decided to ask here for advice.
My son is looking at a non running 75’ 244 with a b20 3speed automatic, that appears to have a solid body with original looking paint.?
Apparently it was running and a daily up until last fall, the owner thinks it’s a fuel related issue and has replaced fuel pump and alternator..?
Other than rust. What advice do the gurus out there have on what to look for?
Thanks folks

Chapter out
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Chapster out

Why go all the way back to '75? What you and your son might hope to be a learning experience might become a tedious white elephant.

There are plenty of good (or great) 850s on the market.

We have had no issues with our 3x855s or our 2xXC70s.

We only got $1000 as a trade to a Kia dealer for our 855R - in excellent running condition and serviced for 17 years by Lovering Volvo in Nashua NH. EVERYTHING still worked on this 17 year-old-car car!

850s have many more safety features than the Volvos that came before it.

BTW Lovering just had a party for their 75th Anniversary - I spoke to Mrs. Lovering and told her that I purchased her Fire Rod '96 855R when it was 6 years old - she told me that it was the best car she ever drove!

a 75 is a real white elephant. everything is a melding of a metric b20 and kjet injection.. seriously nearly everything is 75 only. and the original fuel tank should have been replaced under recall. look for a drain plug on the tank. if it's there, it's the 75-77 tank and WILL be a problem. get a 76, at least but a 79 up is better. not so many changes from year to year. 76-78 steering racks are rare and manual steering are impossible to find.

that being said, a 79 up rebuilt rack are getting thin, i've seen rebuild and return.

So what I’m hearing is sourcing parts will be a problem.?

Chapster
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Chapster out

I think Chuck did a pretty good job of describing why I wouldn't want one. If your son is into old Volvos, just about anything other than a 75 is a better choice. On the other hand, if he's into '75 244s, well, yes, parts will be the challenge.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Well, here we are, Mr. Pilgrim, trapped in the amber of this moment. There is no why." -KV

A ‘76 looks pretty much the same as a ‘75, but you have the newer B21 engine and the M45 gearbox, in most cases at least. The earlier B20 engine is sturdy and proven as well, parts are available if you check offers for Amazon or P1800. The metric parts are very few used in the engine, pistons are different. If the car has little or no rust, I would choose it, mechanical issues are rarer and cheaper to solve than rust, and even later 240 can rust, very much in fact.
Michael

If rusty, walk away.

If hard staring, the warm-regulator may be old and does not richen up the fuel mix when cold.

B20 may need the large timing gear with fiber teeth replaced if not already.

The BW35 auto tragic slush box has a few adjustments (belts) yet the wet clutch disks can de laminate and disintegrate by now. Ford Type F fluid only.

Yes, Bosch continuous K-Jetronic injection and the electronic ignition. Fussy.

Else, well, research if at all.

1975 244 DL with M41 4-speed was my first in August 1984.

1976+ with B21 may be better, yet K-Jetronic injection until 1981? K-Jetronic can be fussy if CA-state (outlaws internal combustion engine vehicles in 2035, Newsnum) or NY (?) emissions. If CA, may have EGR. Remove EGR if you can.

Anything before 1989 can be fussy if in US.

You can find carbed air intake ports and fit a Weber (downdraft) if state emissions allow it and other fixings like a fuel pump for the carb. Volvo Penta marine service may have carb intake manifold for B18 / B20.

Watch the rust if in rusty belt states. Where oxides of iron and not nitrogen rue the day or sale.

Hope that helps.

Buttermilk Boyee.
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