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Master Cylinder Bleeding 200 1981

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi4BnNA3Ep4

After a complete brake job (MC to pads including hoses) I could not get a firm peddle. Despite advice from you-all to bench bleed the MC, I didn’t. Found this youtube video on bleeding a MC in the car. I did a variation for our dual system connecting hoses from the two LF top bleeders to the reservoir. I was able to pump the peddle and watch for bubbles. Sure enough there were a couple. I then went around to each wheel following the Volvo procedure. BANG! I had a very firm peddle.








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Master Cylinder Bleeding 200 1981

Hi,

My wife has been trying for years to train me to be careful about using “all inclusive statements” when the consensus of them being accurate is so blank. Like writing a blank check that a mouth cannot cover.
Your “ from you-all” has proved her right when I and others have not responded to this thread. But I’m sure you have had times when others have given advice and you are comfortable is saying what you say.
I get that way too but I’m getting better in being cautious. 🤭🤔🤫 in conversations with her!

I wouldn’t say a bench bleeding of the MC procedure is any better than doing all or the whole system of lines through the calipers.
Especially, if the plan is to do other work on the system that will require that all the fluid be replaced.

The word “bench” means a lot of air. Each bore diameter is about one ounce or so.
The removal of that fluid into it isn’t exactly mandated before installation onto the brake booster.
It just means it will not have to travel a long ways to get out.

If you have fluid in the unit before mounting it, you could end up with a mess out the ports.
You have to plug the ports or pinch tubing you ran up to the reservoir. The whole thing will have fluid in there to be dealt with.
You can go ahead and mount it dry and align the line fittings up snug first.
Put in your fluid and let gravity settle the fluid it’s way down towards the internal cups.
Undo the fittings on the ports until a drip occurs.

The reservoir should be open to the front of the piston seals if the booster or pedal rod is not sticking out to far from the booster.
Usually but not always there is a caution notice packaged with a rebuilt MC. The inner piston cup radius may not match the rods end radius.
That distance has to be confirmed before mounting the MC to the booster flange.
The result of not checking that dimension can lead to a large change in pedal height from the previous MC’s setup.
I have written about this when this kind of change is an issue.

I think the most important part is to use the clear tubing and know that the air bubbles have stopped and it clean clear fluid.
Once a year or mor i suck out all of the upper fluids from both reservoirs and put in fresh brake fluid.
I figured some time ago that new fluid will absorb moisture from the rest of the system by osmosis has continuous drying affect to reduce complications due to that.
I still flush the system but it’s a lot longer in between the intervals recommended. Easier to do the replenish work up top that playing behind every wheels drippings.

Glad to see you are using the BRICKBOARD for a distraction like we do.

Phil








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Master Cylinder Bleeding 200 1981

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