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Before removing the assembly, with the belt fully extended, try compressed air and a vacuum crevice tool to get out debris to see if that's all that's needed. If you don't have access to a compressor then there are spray cans of compressed air used for cleaning electronics like keyboards, often available for cheap at places like dollar stores. You'll be able to get the spray tube into the assembly. Try not to spray upside down or you'll be blowing out frozen propellant and wasting it (that's a tip for electronic types to use as cheap spray freeze for diagnosing things like failing transistors).
Beyond that, there's a feature article on seat belt retractor servicing here in the 700/900 FAQ
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/SeatBeltRetractorRepair.htm
It's based on material from Art Benstein for 240s, but 700s & 900s are similar. Third row seating seat belts (which I'm not familair with) should also be similar. I imagine third row seats may accumulate more dirt in the retractors than other positions.
I'll add one note, there is often minor pilling on the web edge from use that causes a bit of binding. As long as it's just fuzz and not damaged webbing, you can take it down with an electric shaver or a fabric defuzzer razor meant for the job. Scissors and razor blades are not recommended as it's too easy to nick the webbing.
If after cleaning the belt and pawl it's still not retracting to your satisfaction then you can consider servicing the spring side. Cleaning and even retensioning the spring can be done yourself, but you need to be a bit more carefully. There are a number of Youtube videos on that. Check a few videos out before taking off the end cover to make sure there are no surprises.
If using something like WD-40 for cleaning, don't soak the fabric. It won't necessarily hurt anything, just not a great idea, especially if the threading is left wet for an extended period.
As general advice to those reading about seat belts here, to be completely safe, when working on SRS systems (the pyrotechnic pre-tensioner), before opening the connector at the retractor, first disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes for the controller to completely discharge.
Red Loctite is used by Volvo on all bolts securing seat belt components to the chassis. It will take extra leverage to remove them. A breaker bar or cheater pipe will be handy. On reassembly, Loctite is again recommended (red or blue will do). Main thing is to make sure the bolts are fully tightened (35 ft-lbs is the spec).
Almost all seat belt repair services would fully clean and check the retractor as part of re-webbing or pyrotechnic replacement even if they don't specifically advertise it. In the event of a discharge in a major accident with the seat occupied, the excessive force could slightly stretch the webbing or weaken the stitching, so not a bad idea to consider replacing the webbing as well as the pyrotechnic tensioner, if not the entire seatbelt assembly.
Be careful not to catch anything like wiring behind the bolts on reassembly. A body shop once did that on my wife's 940, crushing the entire right side wiring harness. It kept blowing fuses every time the power window was operated. The body shop couldn't figure it out after bringing it back for a week, suggesting the problem was elsewhere and finally wanting to send the car for another week or more to dealer service, which wasn't at all convenient. It took me an entire 25 minutes to find it once I decided to start looking myself and another 25 to properly mend it. The shop, supposedly one of the better ones in the region, got an earful from me afterwards.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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