Did I make a big mistake with ABS on my '92 240?
I need help! When I got the car five years ago the "Check ABS" light was on all the time. So I disconnected it by pulling out the relay. As I recall it drove and braked okay. It gave me some time to use the car, and locate new reluctors, which I bought from a guy in England. I also had to fabricate new dust shields by modifying some for a 240 without ABS. (Not really so hard to do, cut a hole for the sensor wire to pass through, and cut away some of the sheet-metal to fit around the caliper). I also had to replace front bushings and one front control arm which was lost to rust. This was a Connecticut car - lots of road salt! At that time as I recall I replaced all four calipers and pads, maybe rotors also. That was 2017.
I cleaned everything up and installed two new front reluctors and both sensors. When I reconnected the relay the "Check ABS" light came on and stayed on again.
I had cleaned a lot of corrosion, rust and wheel bearing grease off both front hubs. The reluctors were so corroded I had to cut them off.
The "Check ABS" light stayed lit on the instrument panel. So I once again disconnected the ABS relay.
After annually changing the right front caliper, and less frequently the left front caliper in September 2023 the car was braking on both LF and RF. After a few miles of driving both sides were very hot. Rear brakes not.
In January 2023 I completed replacing all four calipers and rotors and pads. I bled the whole system very thoroughly with a pressure -assisted pump to the master cylinder reservoir. I read through all the FAQs on the Brick Board. I got a hint to check the junction valve up by the front left wheel well. I've cleaned it extensively but I have not been able to crack it open with a Allen wrench to let trapped air out. I don't know if air is trapped in there. I have bled it thoroughly again at all four wheels in the proper order for an ABS system. This time the rear rotors were showing barely any wear and contact with the new brake pads. But both front rotors were heating up and smoking after I went a few miles. I was still driving with the ABS relay disconnected.
I read about the rubber brake lines possibly being worn out and too soft and generating pressure within the system which could force the calipers to move. Now I have bought a new set of stainless steel woven protected rubber brake lines, one for each front wheel, and one for attaching in the brake line just above the differential which then splits to steel lines to each rear wheel. I haven't replaced the three rubber hoses yet because I wanted to ask here on the brick board for advice.
I'm wondering what my next step should be? I can start by bleeding the whole system again to make sure there is no air in it.
But am I creating a problem by keeping the ABS system disconnected/nonfunctional? Can the brakes still function without the ABS computer control? If that is an absolute yes requirement I will get onto that the very next thing. I imagine it will be a thorough going over/cleaning of the reluctor's and checking the gap on the sensors to the reluctors. I will check all the wiring up to the ABS controller, and also make sure I have power to the ABS controller.
Any special procedures or hints, or what to look for or what to do?
I greatly appreciate any help. I love driving his car and it's in good shape. I need to use it as a daily driver. TIA.