I think what happens is that long bolt can tighten the belt when the mounting bolts are loose, but if you try to move the position using the long bolt without the mounting bolts being loose you might strip the threads then be turning it forever.
I'd suggest removing that bolt and the part it threads though for an inspection, you might just need to finsd a long bolt with that thread. I remember needing to do that and The bolt I found onhand didn thave such long threads so I used a die to run them down further, You might find another used one or order one if tha'ts a challenge.

If you try to run that thread a long way what can happen is the die starts cutting the bolt more on one side than the other and it sort of goes off kilter. you could also just replace it with metric redi rod and put two nuts instead of the bolt head , put some locktite and lock the two nuts together and they will act like the head of a bolt.

If you are stuck getting them off I think you can remove the fan and then the clutch thing and pull the pulley off a little which is as much work as getting the bolts free for the bracket. It might be possible to remove the clutch and keep the fan on it, but hen you are using an open end wrench and so then it takes a while.

I think if you have the clutch off then you can shift that pulley behind it around to help get the belt on without prying it, although it may not really be a lot less work. If you are sort of forcing belts on and off pulleys , you can do that, but I'd stop if it starts to feel like you are putting so much force upon it you might bend the pulley or damage the belt. just try to keep it within reason.

you might take a 1/4" extension ( for a socket) cut it off and mount it in your battery drill so you dont have to crank all day. if you drill has a 1/2" chuck then it may fit without cutting it. You can buy a hex adapter with a 1/4" drive if you like shopping.

if you are stuck with the part the bolt threads through being stripped out you might use a standard size just a bit larger and rethread it to about that. sometimes you might not have a metric tap and die set on hand but have a standard one, better to stay original, of course. it might be an M6 which is close in size , visually to 1/4" of course metric and standard won't fit each other.. I remember having a 140 from about 74 or so, where everything on the engine was standard and everything on the body was metric.

if you have a torch,and those skills, a trick is to heat up the hex portion with the threads to a dull orange and apply some silver solder or braizing rod, let that flow in the threads, then you can redrill and retap the hole. you might be able to get it that hot with a propane torch, maybe using nap gas.

first I'd just try turning it and if it's going nowhere and stripped , remove the affected parts and repair them or replace them.

ive stripped them before too.. it's just a learning experience. next time make sure all the bolts are loose, put some oil on it and go slowly, if it binds find out why. since the dipstick is right here I'd just pull the dipstick and touch that to the bolt a couple of times, check your oil level and put it back, then you dont need to run for an oilcan ;-) if you coat it with grease and leave it it probably wont rust, yea you can use stainless if you want to be fancy, but stainless might also have a bit softer threads.

If you are stuck you can tension it with a pry bar and tighten everythign else up and you'd then be ok to go on a parts run or get to work on time or whatever but I'd fix it right after that, when you have a moment.

if you find a long Allen head bolt (socket head cap screw) they are usually decent metal. if the head is different, who cares. the trick sometimes is just finding a bolt that long with long enough threads, in a local hardware store, if you are in a hurry to get done. if so ask if they have metric redi rod.

while there I'd look at the rubber bushings, the ones that fit into about a 1" hole, they wear out and then the belt will be noisy as it's running off kilter. they arent; expensive. a trick is to rotate them 90 degrees so the wear is on a different side, or wrap them a few times with black tape and shove them back in, that can help a bit. they are not pressed in there, they are easy to remove.

It's worth changing those with the belts or at least checking them because that always happens there, especially in that location.

if you put a ruler or something straight up against the side of a pulley the next pulley should be in line. common to see them a bit off and running OK like that , but just making a bit of belt noise and premature wear. If you get them straight it'll be quieter and you'll be a bit happier. there is no adjustment to skew things, to make it correct.

Hi,

We are glad to hear all about the ordeal but luckily we didn’t get our vocabularies increased. 🙃

If possible add about ten millimeters or .5 inches to the length of the old belt number.
It will easier the next time.
In the early days alternators the factory made variations and it caused fits with the dealerships parts departments.

It’s a shame you still had to still “walk off” or on new or old belts as It twists and stretches the fabrication of cords within the rubber. It is frowned upon by the manufacturers but we do what we have to, is how it works!

The alternator setup is somewhat hokey with rubber bushings fitting into a casting with tapered bores that are not machined inline towards each other. When they get bad enough I bore them put in hard PVC bushings. I don’t understand why they wanted to insulate the alternator housing but I do understand the sloppiness as it was essentially laziness from the late seventies into growing pains.

Now when I was between 26 to 35 and I got treated to more Volvo lessons.

On my first Volvo a 1978.
The crankshaft on the 2.1 is made in two halves with shims in between them.
I had never knew that such an idea existed. Variable speed cone pulleys are in two pieces but why was It the only adjustment method. This had to be an oops fix from Volvos vendors, I hope.

I was about to take a long out of state trip but the A/C belt broke in my driveway.
It was right after I did a Volvo recommended 30,000 mile service interval. The dealer was 40 miles away.
It was never changed or charged on my bill either.
As I went to put another one on there was no way to do it. Yikes!

I called them to ask what gorilla put that belt on or if it was ever serviced in any way.
The dealership stated with an excuse that the A/C was added on in the states by a contractor. BS as
they did not divulge who but gave me the pulley setup for free from their stock “on hand.”
Now that P##### Me Off as I could not drive the car to that dealer with no power steering. I thought.
Then, of course, I had to put it on!
Needless to say that car never was serviced by Volvo again.
It had a 36,000 mile warranty or I wouldn’t have done it all.


Later this went on to be a bumper to bumper of which was another farce for my 1986 used wagon.
I bought the car used and as far as As far as I knew was dealer serviced there.
The PO said warranty does transfer to me.

On it, the rear muffler fell down during my wife’s commuting travels.
To me that a warranty issue.
The car had a slight miss and the tailgate sometimes would not unlock so I had it serviced.

Later, A Charged was discussed to replace “A” platinum plug that they didn’t recommend to be used.
I said why only one? Change them all, duh?

Well, That cost me a tuneup and I feel that paid for the muffler that they did cover under warranty.

Afterwards the miss came back. I checked it out to be bad injector pins on the number four clip. The same cylinder that needed a spark plug according to the service receipt. Bummer.

The tailgate was ignored because, supposedly, wouldn’t fail for them.
Bring it back when it quits completely.
I was told Intermittent symptoms are not covered under warranty.
Well I can “recall” whether they can or not.
Guess it never made it to a safety issue with Volvo.
We all know about them tailgate harnesses today!

Would I or did I buy more Volvos. I own six 240s today as I like them so much. I learned used with no warranties are far less expensive to new with the same results.


Just read where the new cars have to have their computers reprogrammed to a battery serial number.
Yep!
If you change the battery’s style to one that’s made different, flooded, AGM, or with even with rounded cells
if it isn’t as it came on the car a newer scan tool is needed.
This is going to sell a lot more scan tools to someone.

There is a battery monitor module to adjust the charging system as the battery supposedly tops off percentage wise.
Also it’s Adjusts to the age of the battery this way.
How long will that be or is it going to better?

Get a car serviced today, you had better carry two wallets or be ready to give them the title for a new ride.

I have sensed programed in obsolescence before but this is truly baking a cake with a limit on birthdays.


Phil

1988 240 DL.