I replaced the under car fuel filter which had rusted out and was leaking a few days ago and have introduced another problem. I had replaced the pump and filter 11 years ago. Now the wires to the pump electrical connectors had just corroded and broke off (MN salt no doubt) just before going into the connector. The original connectors each had two tangs to squeeze to release it from the pump. I cannot find these type connectors anywhere!

What I have in place and working for a replacement (but am not happy with) are Volvo P/N 3523813. These connectors just use the metal inside to squeeze the prong in the pump for the electrical connection. There are no tangs for a mechanical connection. The P/N 3523813 connector was used by Volvo to connect the side marker lights. They can be found on several sites such as FCPEURO and VOLVONEST. The thing that I am most concerned with is the smaller size of the wire in the replacement and the current handling ability of the smaller wire?. The pump assembly is back together on the 940 and working but I am concerned about the current draw of the pump and the smaller wire size. Should I be concerned about the smaller wire size?

What I would like are a couple of the connectors with pigtails and the tangs to secure the connection to the fuel pump as was done originally. Anyone have ideas on where I can get these connectors for a better fix?

We still have 7 940s running and 3 junkers. They are all Regina fuel systems but 2 which are Bosch fuel systems. The other Bosch system is corrosion free, a Southern car.
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

I've been driving the car for a week with no problems with the smaller gauge wires.
I'd like to replace them with 18 gauge in the Spring if I can find a source with the correct connector. Corrosion could raise havoc with the new wires. They are tinned so that should help.
Thanks for your help!
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

Dear jd620,

Hope you're well and stay so! I'm pretty sure that the Bosch main fuel pump's plastic connectors are unique to that pump format. They came with the pump: Volvo did not - so far as I can tell from Volvo VADIS, a superseded dealer parts/service database - supply these connectors.

Around each of the pump's metal stud contacts, is a plastic sheath, onto which latches the wiring harness connector's contacts. When that plastic sheath is pressed onto the metal stud contact, the sheath locks into a circumferential recess in the metal stud. Thus, even if you found a used pump in a salvage yard, the plastic sheaths - embrittled by time - likely would break when you tried to pry them free.

The only way to replace the sheaths is to get them new, and press them into place. You'd have to contact Bosch and find out if they still have these sheaths. That's a long shot, to say the least.

As you've soldered the wires to the pump's metal studs, you can weather-proof the connections by using butyl rubber tape, of the sort used to install windshields. Butyl rubber is very sticky. Clean the connections with a solvent (e.g. alcohol, methyl ethyl ketone [butanone], or acetone) to remove any dirt, grease etc. Starting at the base of each pump stud, wrap the tape over the connectors and for a further inch along the wires. Compress the tape with your fingers. That will bond the tape into a single piece of butyl rubber. This should make a long term water-tight connection.

If you want to use a heavier wire, you may delay doing this until you've done the wire upgrade: butyl rubber - which does not harden with time - is hard to remove.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Go to Dave Barton's (Volvo wiring specialist) site here:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html

Cheers, Bill

some fuel pumps on earlier versions had round push on connectors and some of the aftermarket pumps come with those mickey mouse crimp on connectors and short wires to switch it from the older style to the eyelet style terminals.. a lot of the bosche pumps have terminals with nuts..


If you want the round push in style you can probably use one of those 4 prong trailer plug things, you can buy a new male and female end if you like , Just cut them in half or ignore the other two prongs. If you just want one prong you can just take a box cutter and slice the trailer plug along parallel to the tubular shaped connectors.


If I splice wires I never use those crimps. In stead slip a piece of shrink tubing over the wire, do a western union splice, solder it then slide the heat shrink overtop.. like this..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

when you strip wire try not to loose any strands and the replacement should be as heavy as the original wire..

I never trust crimp connectors, If I want to use the ones meant to be crimped I just pull off and throw away the plastic cover thing and put heat shrink on the wire then put the wire in the connector, I'll squeeze it up but solder as well.. then pull the heat shrink back over it rather than the hard plastic thing that comes with the connectors.


some fuel pumps come with the things that you squeeze over the wire and they are a quick sort of connector to join one wire to another. they sort of pinch the wire right through the insulation. I never use those things because I dont trust them. solder and heat shrink won't cause an issue.


If it's working and not failing it's probably ok..

I like to run a couple more wires, in parallel , from that connector back inside the car and put a small low watt bulb there.. I'll hide that little tiny lamp in the engine bay. If I ever have a starting issue I like to see that the fuel pump has power or not. If I have a no start issue and if it's lit then I won't go playing with the relay..

If you wanted you could also pick up the other end of those wires instead after following it through the floor up to the fuel pump relay.

If I want to check the fuel pump I'll undo it at the fuel rail, put it in a jar and crank but not to long, it will fill the jar with gas fast! be careful you dont start a fire..

If you want to see if the fuel pump or the pre pump works you can pull the fuse from the other so it's only the prepump or only the main pump running.

if the pre pump dies, the car may run but may also have issue as the tank gets more than about 1/2 empty. If main pump dies, car won't start. you can usually hear the main pump for a second after turning the key while it primes. you can usually hear the pre pump if you listen with the fuel filler cap removed.

if you remove the prepump sometimes there is a plastic mesh that falls apart in there so you may see bits of it floating in the gas. i would not try to change the pre-pump without the rest of the sender, because it all degrades.

I've met people who have driven for extended periods with a dead pre pump by simply keeping the tank full.

never go into fixing the prepump with a full tank, best that it's empty first. I'd siphon it first if there is gas in the tank. when you get that lid off and your nose in the area its best not to have it full of gas. then you can see the bottom of the tank. the gas and it's fumes are still dangerous of course.

I think you're asking for the plastic clips that attaches to the end of the wires, Volvo part number 1307035 and is sold separately.



https://s3.amazonaws.com/rparts-sites/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef918b/984b748dc2876039f2aef5dfc5510247.jpg

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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com