Hello Everyone,

So my 1990 240 has been having a small issue the past few months. You start the car and the SRS light stays on and the AC Fan doesn't work. If you barely back the ignition key off, it all works and the light goes away.
It did it again as usual, then I came back to my car after an errand and the dash lights came on and then nothing (they went off). Regardless of the key turning or position, no lights, no start. The car seems dead. It is not as the parking lights and the brights work great.

So clearly it is my ignition, but is it just the switch that needs replacing or is there something going on with the barrel too? The spring works when you put the key in and out (mostly) sometimes it's slow.

I want to order a new switch but I want to make sure that's what it is and not the key and barrel doing it.

I appreciate your help.

A new ignition switch should put you back in action and give a fair few years of good service. 20-30 years out of a switch is probably the norm in my limited experience. A worn/sloppy keyway, especially from something like a heavy key fob, can hasten the demise of the ignition switch component plus they simply wear over time. Having to pull the key out a bit can also be a sign of a worn key and pins, but in that circumstance you would have increasing problems turning the key, not electrical contacts. A number of aftermarket ignition switches are available at cheaper prices and may be quite adequate, but I've always used Volvo.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Dang it! I finally wrestled in the new Genuine Volvo Switch and nothing! Same symptoms. The key did make the ring come on once. It must be the mechanicals in the key part. Remember it has been acting strange like having to back the key counterclockwise to get the AC fan to come on, and every now and then it would just do nothing like it is now. What do y’all suggest?

Hi,

You know I read this thread before and thought that the lock cylinder was really worn and it apparently was turning to far and would have said that the problem is changing right there too.
When humans use things they get broken or at least badly bent or grungy.
A lock cylinder, with all of it’s rather fragile parts, do not get much respect.

I know this is all “Johnny come lately” but figured you had a handle on it with many posts as well.
I’m Sorry to hear that are so shocked but glad you are sharing it with us and the archives.
We all are bound to have to have this problem eventually no matter what we drive and do not want others to be able too!

I have a sister-in-law that could stab her, Honda Accord drivers door cylinder, with keys faster than a professional assassin. Her technique kept the knife and I could barely tell she even twisted it!
I swapped over the two door cylinders from each other by removing a tang or protrusion that made them a left or right unit. This way she didn’t have to buy their special part number because was talking of getting her first brand new vehicle. A 2016 Chevy Equinox with remote start fob and screen gadgets up the ga-zoo.
She is own her own with those repetitive tire pressure advisements!
She is starting to understand why I like what I have and my wife drives.
The Equinox is probably the last car she thought she would ever own. I shall see after her “Extended” warranty runs out.
She just might buy another vehicle or a warranty, if they or anyone, will sell one for it.
The price tags will be very similar, I’ll bet!

I’m not very familiar with the lock cylinder as I have never replaced one. I have taken a switch off and put in back on but that was on my extra or spare air bag steering column that I swiped out of a nearly complete interior. It all on a shelf with its own keys and was a nice find years ago.

As I remember the switch itself was a stand alone component.
Apparently the lock cylinder is also.
In the manuals there is a side pin you drill or take out “some how?” to remove the unit.
I would have to go look at my extra to tell you where that is located. I think it’s not very large and hard to see, but there’s a reason for that?

Since you are now a nice respectable customer, of your local Volvo parts dealer, he can get you what you need with keys!

Keep us up to date with how that road twists.(:-)

Phil

backing off the key to get the blower working is classic ignition switch. i have never replaced a volvo lock cylinder for this problem. mercedes used the same vendor and i've done dozens of ign switches for iffy blower and lock cylinders for refusing to turn-never for an iffy blower. you would be the first.

What would the test be? I had to wait 10 days to get the switch and I really don't want to return it and wait again without confirming it. Does the switch ground on the cylinder or something, Is there a way to manually turn it to see if it works if it is not attached to the lock cylinder. What would you suggest?

i would try the old switch and a screwdriver to turn it. all i got.

Thank you for the response. Goodness, what a mess. I tool the cluster out and popped off the plug, but getting a screwdriver to the switch is going to be a nightmare. My stubby screwdriver is too fat of a handle to work. I might try going under the bolster on my back for better leverage. That wiring harness is old and super stiff.

Yes, those ignition switch screws can be a mild pain to access and remove, especially as you can't really see what you're doing. Removing the cluster as you've done is where to start. Some try to do both screws from under the dash, but that's a lot body contortions. Access from under the dash is still often needed, especially to find some screw that's accidentally dropped down. Once you get a screw started you can just use your fingers holding a long screwdriver bit (like from a cheap multi-bit screwdriver) to finish the job. Sticking a long bit on them and reaching down with pliers to turn it can be useful to get them started. I've got an angle screwdriver (Z-shaped) I use to get them started if I can't get a good grip with a small slot screwdriver. I'll often push an LED flashlight to the back with a small hand mirror nsted next to it to better see what I'm doing.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

ignition switch for sure.

Thank you. I just wanted to make sure.