Hi,

You know I read this thread before and thought that the lock cylinder was really worn and it apparently was turning to far and would have said that the problem is changing right there too.
When humans use things they get broken or at least badly bent or grungy.
A lock cylinder, with all of it’s rather fragile parts, do not get much respect.

I know this is all “Johnny come lately” but figured you had a handle on it with many posts as well.
I’m Sorry to hear that are so shocked but glad you are sharing it with us and the archives.
We all are bound to have to have this problem eventually no matter what we drive and do not want others to be able too!

I have a sister-in-law that could stab her, Honda Accord drivers door cylinder, with keys faster than a professional assassin. Her technique kept the knife and I could barely tell she even twisted it!
I swapped over the two door cylinders from each other by removing a tang or protrusion that made them a left or right unit. This way she didn’t have to buy their special part number because was talking of getting her first brand new vehicle. A 2016 Chevy Equinox with remote start fob and screen gadgets up the ga-zoo.
She is own her own with those repetitive tire pressure advisements!
She is starting to understand why I like what I have and my wife drives.
The Equinox is probably the last car she thought she would ever own. I shall see after her “Extended” warranty runs out.
She just might buy another vehicle or a warranty, if they or anyone, will sell one for it.
The price tags will be very similar, I’ll bet!

I’m not very familiar with the lock cylinder as I have never replaced one. I have taken a switch off and put in back on but that was on my extra or spare air bag steering column that I swiped out of a nearly complete interior. It all on a shelf with its own keys and was a nice find years ago.

As I remember the switch itself was a stand alone component.
Apparently the lock cylinder is also.
In the manuals there is a side pin you drill or take out “some how?” to remove the unit.
I would have to go look at my extra to tell you where that is located. I think it’s not very large and hard to see, but there’s a reason for that?

Since you are now a nice respectable customer, of your local Volvo parts dealer, he can get you what you need with keys!

Keep us up to date with how that road twists.(:-)

Phil

backing off the key to get the blower working is classic ignition switch. i have never replaced a volvo lock cylinder for this problem. mercedes used the same vendor and i've done dozens of ign switches for iffy blower and lock cylinders for refusing to turn-never for an iffy blower. you would be the first.

Yes, those ignition switch screws can be a mild pain to access and remove, especially as you can't really see what you're doing. Removing the cluster as you've done is where to start. Some try to do both screws from under the dash, but that's a lot body contortions. Access from under the dash is still often needed, especially to find some screw that's accidentally dropped down. Once you get a screw started you can just use your fingers holding a long screwdriver bit (like from a cheap multi-bit screwdriver) to finish the job. Sticking a long bit on them and reaching down with pliers to turn it can be useful to get them started. I've got an angle screwdriver (Z-shaped) I use to get them started if I can't get a good grip with a small slot screwdriver. I'll often push an LED flashlight to the back with a small hand mirror nsted next to it to better see what I'm doing.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now