I have a couple of problems that may or may not be related.

I replaced the starter due to what appeared to be a bad solenoid. The new starter worked fine but now will not do anything when the key is turned into the start position.

All the dash lights work when the key is on.

The second problem is the shifter is stuck in park and will not move to the other positions.

I pushed the shift lock release button under the shifter boot and it is now stuck and won't move.

I have read the FAQ's but they are specific to the 740 and 940 series and don't seem to be applicable to the 240?

It looks like Art B recommends removing the plunger in the solenoid. Any instructions on this procedure would be appreciated.

I would appreciate any ideas you have to fix these issues.
Dan

"It looks like Art B recommends removing the plunger in the solenoid. "

Hi Dan, can you point me to where you see this?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

It was on Turbobricks, with a google search.
Dan

I can't find it. Can you recall your search terms or other detail?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Art
Did i put words into your mouth, if so I'm sorry!! I think it was something like 240 Volvo shift lock?

I have been able to consistently start the engine by pushing the shift lever in park hard to the right. Would bending NSS to the left help?

Forward / backwards adjustments have not fix anything yet.

Releasing the solenoid on the shift lock is still hit and miss, would spraying WD40 on the solenoid help?

Also what kind of lube should I use on the NSS switch contacts?

Thanks Dan

Hi Dan,

Nothing to apologize for. Sometimes I get credit where it isn't due, and in this case I would have liked to read what was said, because I can't envision how to ask someone to remove the shift lock solenoid's plunger. Undoubtedly if it could be done, it would prevent a lot of misery created by this two-year-only design.

If something was spilled, my guess is WD40 won't be a solvent for it. Certainly taking it all apart would be a project, and that may be the only way to make it reliable again. Like Porkface says, I can't see too well from here. You're going to pioneer your own fix.

Lubricant? This is what I used so many years ago.



Fix Your Backup Light Switch

Edit: Reading your latest, OxGard or connector grease would be OK in my opinion. So would a squirt of the same grease you use on suspension, I think. I'd want something thick that wouldn't get runny with the warmth of a Florida interior.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury. - Groucho Marx

I have Ox-Guard anti oxidant compound or Silicone Heat Sink thermal dielectric compound I use on Ignition power stage.
Dan

It appears I have a problem with the neutral safety switch. I asked my daughter how she started the engine and got it home. She said she pushed the shifter forward and to the right, I duplicated the procedure and it fired right up.

So it looks like a NSS alignment / adjustment issue or I need to replace it. I feel pretty confident with a fix now.

Thanks again Art, you are a lifesaver.
Dan

Dan, you and I have something in common. Daughters who have been driving 240s for a lot of years. We are bound to expose some of the same issues.

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Dear Walter,

I hope you can help me here. The other day, I set off for work leaving my husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't driven more than a mile down the road when the engine conked out and the car shuddered to a halt. I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't believe my eyes. He was in our bedroom with the neighbor girl.

I am 32, my husband is 34, and the neighbor girl is 22. We have been married for ten years. When I confronted him, he broke down and admitted that they had been having an affair for the past six months. I told him to stop or I would leave him. He was let go from his job six months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and worthless. I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has become increasingly distant. He won't go to counseling and I'm afraid I can't get through to him anymore. Can you please help?

Sincerely,
Sheila

Dear Sheila:

A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a variety of faults with the engine. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line. If it is clear, check the vacuum pipes and hoses on the intake manifold and also check all grounding wires. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the carburetor float chamber. I hope this helps.

Walter

Yes we do! My daughters really like how they fix themselves! My other daughter is shooting for 300K and she is about 7k miles away from making it.
Dan

Hi Dan,

Related? Might be. I can imagine a Coke spilled into the shifter bucket being responsible for both symptoms.

Shift lock stuck:

The shift lock bypass button doesn't have a spring return; it is intended to move the pin in the lock solenoid when the solenoid can't.














No crank:

Could be the neutral safety switch inhibiting cranking (hope, hope). The way I troubleshoot no-crank uses the dome light. Open the door so the courtesy lamp comes on and stare at it while you attempt to crank. Does it remain on steady, or wink a bit to reveal the current drawn by the starter solenoid?

No flicker means the electrical circuit is not completing.



--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

By all means, marry. If you get a good wife, you'll become happy; if you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher. - Socrates

Lamp is lit with headlights.

I see the yellow lever trying to move and now able to get lever out Park.

It is still sticking but have found that a little force gets it into the other gears. But starter is got working by wiggling the shifter or in neutral, so it may bet he NSS? Or electrical part of the ignition switch?

Dan

There is no flickering. I notice the small lamp for gear shift position indication does not glow. Bulb has continuity not sure about power, lights probably need to be on?
Dan

Thanks Art, that yellow lever gets stuck in the solenoid when pressed to the left. I can get it unstuck with a little prying force but it does not release the solenoid. I'm guessing the plunger is either stuck or the solenoid is not working.

I will try the dome light diagnostic procedure! Cleaned and replaced fuses 7 and 12.

Park neutral switch was replaced a year ago with a freshly cleaned switch and has been working fine

Dan