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NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223550043242?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e12052.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=a6892112ccdb4d9288e6fe3700d6eb40&bu=44822637627&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20220609145549&segname=12052








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    NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

    Dear Blindboy,

    Hope you're well and stay so. Thank you for confirming - in your response to my post under a different heading - that this Idle Air Control Valve for a Volkswagen substitutes perfectly for the IACV found in Rex-Regina Volvo 940s.

    The Volvo-supplied part (#1389557) is "NLA" (no longer available). When Volvo sold it, the price was about $300. So, having a replacement that costs less than $30 is great!!!

    Yours faithfully,

    Spook








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      NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

      Sweet!! I was just eyeballing the broken IAC I have sitting on a shelf in my garage and thinking I want to toss it, but they're kind of unobtanium now. I bought a used one for like $75 a while ago. No matter how much I cleaned the first one, it wouldn't close consistently.








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      NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

      Hi Spook,

      What's the difference between the NA and the turbo for the IAC?
      Do you have the Volvo part numbers?

      Thanks,

      Bill








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        NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

        The turbo (LH actually) valves rotate a percentage based on applied voltage opposing a spring. The spring pulls it back to a zero idle position at 0 voltage. It's been a while, but I think it goes back to a position of like -90 degrees for starting compared to the usual idle position.

        The Regina valve is a plunger that moves on a different axis like a regular solenoid. As far as I can tell, it just has an open and closed position for Regina, but I bet it's more nuanced than that.








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        NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

        Dear B.B.,

        Hope you're well and stay so! All turbo-equipped engines used in 940s sold in North American markets used the Bosch ignition/engine management system (IEMS). Non-turbo-equipped engines were supplied using the Bosch IEMS, or the Rex-Regina IEMS.

        The Idle air control valves (IACV) are non-interchangeable. The Bosch IACV
        is Volvo #1389618 (Bosch # 0 280 140 516). The Rex-Regina IACV is Volvo #1389557 (VDO #220 75 777).

        Hope this helps.

        Yours faithfully,

        Spook








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          NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

          Hello Spook,
          My 91 740 (Regina) also uses VDO #220 75 777, Volvo p/n1389557. I saw a reply that Some Volkswagens vehicles also use this. Do you know which ones in particular? Anyone? If they are really $30 or so that's a great price.








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            NEW IAC FOR REGINA SYSTEM 940-BASE NO TURBO 900 1995

            Dear chuffsy,

            Hope you're well and stay so!! I believe an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) - that closely resembles the Rex-Regina IACV (Volvo # 1389557) - was used in the following Volkswagens: Jetta (1988-92); Golf (1990-92) and Eurovan (1992-96).

            I do not know if the VW IACV in fact is a perfect substitute for the Volvo part. But at $30, it doesn't cost much to find out. The part is pretty easy to reach, so it also doesn't take much work to find out.

            Please post your findings!

            Yours faithfully,

            Spook








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          NEW IAC FOR 940 TURBO 900 1995

          Hi Spook,

          Thanks for that info.

          Here's a no-name 1993 940 Turbo IACV: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333866311735
          This valve fits a lot of different cars.
          I'm assuming the clamp can be reused.

          These valves fail stuck open or closed, has anyone tried any TLC:
          MMO or lube with these valves when they quit, or before they quit?

          Cheers, Bill








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            NEW IAC FOR 940 TURBO 900 1995

            Dear B.B.,

            Hope you're well and stay so. The valves need to be cleaned, but NOT lubricated. Lubricants will hold micro-particles of dust in the air, that passes through the valve. That dust is will cause a valve to cease to work smoothly.

            Cleaning is best done with cotton-tipped swabs, moistened with solvent. Some may use alcohol. I prefer to use methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), which strips away dirt and leaves metal surfaces as close to surgically-clean as one can get. MEK is very flammable, so should be used with plenty of ventilation. Do not smoke or have in the work area any other source of ignition. MEK is also carcinogenic, so wear gloves.

            To keep solvent from getting into the valve's electrical "compartment", keep the electrical connector pointed upwards at all times. Use swabs until there's no more dirt in the valve's "mechanical area". Then, let the valve sit for a few minutes - with the electrical connector pointed upwards - to allow any solvent to evaporate.

            If cleaning does not restore smooth operation, then it is time to replace the valve.

            Hope this helps.

            Yours faithfully,

            Spook







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