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Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

My beloved red block (B230FT) has had piston slap in the #1 bucket since new. With the cylinder head off, I can see the cylinders all still show the factory cross-hatch machining marks.
I’m doing a cylinder head refurbishment and pulling the engine at this point is academic. My Volvo mechanic friend says that in the day, “they all had piston slap”, and to ignore it. The only way to fix it is to bore and oversize the pistons.
Question: Anyone out there in Brickboard Land experience the same condition (sound similar to ignition knock with a feathered throttle position), and did it annoy you enough to remedy with an overhaul?
Thanks as always.








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    Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

    If turbo Volvo’s had piston slap then -

    1 The piston slap did not really compromise engine life. And

    2 The cure was probably worse than the disease.

    Our 90 744 with piston slap was driven to 225K miles and only sold it because it was no longer needed - the woman I sold it to drove it to 275K miles before she moved to another state

    I wish I still had it.

    I met a guy that was given a 744 turbo because the owner thought the engine was going to blow up, 100 K miles later he was still driving it.

    If the slap goes away when the engine gets warmed up, just keep driving it.








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    Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

    Hi gentlemen,

    All of you are correct in your statements about the occurrence of piston slap.
    The video is showing to me some “excessive clearance” at the top of the piston and tells me that the piston had “gone round.”
    It’s an old term used back in my days to describe the skirt dimension.
    For me there has to be some for the reason for this, not stated in the video.

    You will notice that the slop looks even around the top but he can only shove it in that direction because of the wrist pin axis. He has some play at the bottom too in order to do that, but there will more play at the top normally.
    He is probably shifting the connecting rod as well as it pivots along that axis.
    The rings are moving on their lands of the grooves.
    The piston is cold and therefore shrunk. Piston are really shorter in today’s engines.
    I have yet to rebuild a red block as engine rebuilding has not been my claim to any fame but I know of principles.

    The pistons themselves are like a bearing holding the connecting rod and it is supported by an oil film within the cylinders by the skirts and those sealing rings themselves.
    The piston is never supposed to run on the cylinder walls.
    Clearances are setup to allow for an oil film and also some for carbon build up.
    Carbon builds up around the top of the piston over the compression rings and is helpful to seal and support the piston, up to a point.

    The pistons on todays cars do not have that feature so much, due to the fuels and the fuel management systems of today.
    The idea of shorter piston skirts was to reduce mass and to get an engine to rev up faster. Friction difference is minimal when compared to other factors.
    This compromise comes with some risk or costs in reliability.
    In the long run it was done just to achieve competitive performances in several areas of manufacturing and sales.
    The application of turbos and superchargers started the fascination and thinking to change lots of things.

    Pistons are fitted to the cylinder by measuring over the skirt at the bottom of the piston.
    This is done 90 degrees to the wrist pin because the shirt is machined in an elliptical or oval fashion.
    The wrist pin has a heavier mass and the most cooling takes under the piston head and into the connecting rod itself.

    The top of the piston gets hotter first and stays hotter than the rest of the piston for an oblivious reason.
    One being it’s gets hit first with the heat from the burning fuel.
    The cooling jacket around the cylinders runs hotter at the top as the heat dissipates into the water there during its dwell period.
    Same goes at the bottom of the stroke but heat rises causing the water to be less dense at the top of the water jackets.
    The heat it will stay higher up there at the top zone because it’s out of the most circulation.
    Even though you think it’s circulating the heated water exhibits its boiling tendency all the time.
    It’s one of the reasons that coolant recovery systems were invented to help keep air bubbles away from the cylinders walls.
    A lot of experimenting goes on in R&D and with hopes that it gets into production in a timely manner.

    This whole heating question comes into play.
    Air cooled engines versus water cooled engines run completely different clearances. Air cooled engine will not run up into the mileages as high at a water cooled engine for that simple reason. They start out more loose.
    In my youngsters days, I was instructed to start my motorcycles and run them at idle until I could feel heat coming out of the fins. Just a healthy amount of warmth, not hot hot before driving.
    This meant the piston was expanded and oil was conducting heat effectively for service.

    But there is a kicker in this here story.
    The pistons are working with the same principles and still have to expand and that takes a “wee bit” of time.
    Ford use to say, in the seventies, wait 30 seconds before driving and slightly longer in colder weather.
    This is not even going to get mentioned for todays use for a whole host of reasons.
    Engine design has changed in 40+ years and of course, those emission requirements push in the real big one. Idling or driving slowly at first would hurt the manufacturers EPA ratings.

    The use of thinner oil has some up side here. This allows for some Small clearance changes.
    Machining got more precise to do that and the oil is faster to pump and less restrictive to crankshaft motion.
    The oil cheaper to distribute and manufacture because there is less of it or mass.
    We are not supposed to think about that, especially, if you know what a slide rule is! I’m not just old but I can still calculate within the realities.

    Yep, I see it all the time. People in a hurry-hurry and a week after getting a new vehicle, they jump into it thump the throttle and blast away, cold! For whatever mind numbing reason.

    Later they scratch their heads or their wallet and barely know to ask, “Why did the vehicle start knocking?”
    Also to say, they never ask, “What they did with those extra seconds in their day?”

    Oh I know, they used them to cutoff someone to an exit that they almost missed or they just needed more time?
    Go figure.
    Forgetfulness runs deep with those short attention spans and instantaneous gratification of today.

    Electric cars can make a lot of this slapping go away in our vehicle propulsion systems, but not to our faces! ((((:-))))

    I have some weak sounding of noise in a few of my more recently bought cars. All nineties!
    All six were second hand and you can tell which were treated better.
    My oldest ones have none and with 30% more miles.
    The newer ones are smoother in some comparisons of owner performance.
    Overall, there are some givens with them, apparently?

    Phil








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    Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

    We had a 1990 740 with a B230NA engine that had that problem. Back then I was told that the problem started when Volvo went to shorter piston skirts in an effort to reduce internal engine friction, and that it was more to do with piston skirt wear than cylinder wear. I our case it would quiet down once it was warmed up. Did it bother me? Yep. Did I do anything about it? Nope. What really bothers me is that our 2018 S60 drive-e sounds like it’s doing the same thing - started at about 20,000 miles. I complained to the dealer more than once while it was still under warranty but I kept getting “Our mechanics don’t hear it.” Or “Make sure you use high grade fuel.” Oh yeah, they also recommend 0W-20 oil. What the heck?! Sorry to rant.








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    Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

    After watching the video I linked in below, I'm thinking my B200F (~ 300k km) does this when cold. Then when it heats up, the knocking sound goes away.

    When I bought my first 245, the seller mentioned that the B200 has less tendency to develop piston slap than a B230, but I don't know if this is true.

    The guy in the video ignores it, and I'm not going to do anything about it either.

    Piston slap video.








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    Quit Slapping Me Around 900 1994

    Presence of cross-hatch machining marks should be seen all along the length of the bore, not only near the bore's top.

    Piston slap usually occurs near the bottom of bore (where the change of direction occurs from piston's fully down then start to travel up again). This is where the wear is usually more.

    The mechanic or machinist should demonstrate to you (using dial bore gauge) measuring any wear along the bore instead of pointing to presence of cross-hatch machining marks as if to say everything is ok.

    If everything is ok (no wear) then there should be no slapping around.

    There could also be slight wear at the piston's skirt causing the slap.

    The bore could be worn conically (ie more at bottom, less near top)

    The only way to fix it is to bore and oversize the pistons.
    Generally yes.

    Amarin.









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