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Brake bleeding sequence 87 non ABS 200


My 245 is almost ready to get on the road. I replaced the rotors, calipers and pads and I'm going to flush any remaining fluid out of the system, which means I've got to refill the M/C and bleed everything. I'm hoping to have it rolling over the weekend.

I read in the Bentley manual that you bleed these a side at a time rather than going from most distant to closest wheel that is standard on most cars. However, the Volvo Problem Solver shows a different pattern, starting on the left rear to the left front and then over to the right front for one bleeder, then right rear, right front and to the left front for one bleeder, I can't show the sequence without posting the diagram.

Which one is right?








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Brake bleeding sequence 87 non ABS 200

In my opinion, the bleeding sequences recommended are (1) an attempt to hold the use of fresh fluid to an efficient absolute minimum and (2) to satisfy our need to have a stated procedure to follow. IOW, don't worry about it. Focus your energy on not allowing either side of the master's reservoir to empty while bleeding. That's what gets you in trouble. And if you're bleeding with an experienced master, don't operate it beyond its normal travel, or you'll score the seals with the rust from the unused portion of the cylinder.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore








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Got another problem--hard brake lines 200

Thanks for the advice on bleeding but I've got another problem now.

I had to put on a hard brake line on the right front before I started today and used an aftermarket from O'Reilly (IPD called this week and said the genuine volvo lines are NLA from Volvo, bummer). After about an hour of bending it and finally getting it on I filled up the M/C and pumped the brakes and it leaks like a sieve from the caliper. Both lines. Not only that, I think the other oem hard brake line is stripped, it is leaking and won't tighten all the way.

I'm going to call the guys in Atlanta on Monday and see if they can set me up with a couple, but if that doesn't work does anyone know where I can source these brake lines? I don't mind an aftermarket if they fit but I'd really prefer them to be bent like they need to be when I get them, trying to do it with a tubing bender doesn't work so well, I can get there but it takes forever and I always seem to get them blocking the caliper bolt.








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Got another problem--hard brake lines 200

Check on turbobricks for sale or post in wanted. I've seen in the past where 240 enthusiasts have saved the curlique lines at the strut from the crusher and offered them to others. I wasn't aware Volvo ever provided those lines pre-bent, though I could be wrong. Because they are cupro-nickel, not steel, they are pretty soft and easy to form, but I can see where even they could be subject to a learning curve.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

My heart says chocolate and wine but my jeans say, for the love of God woman, eat a salad!








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Got another problem--hard brake lines 200

As always you have great advice Art. No I haven't had much experience bending these brake lines, all the pictures I see for the OEM ones show that they are bent, especially right at the caliper where it is a tight space. I pulled the caliper and its the remaining OEM line that is leaking, it seems to be stripped and won't tighten all the way. The aftermarket one that I bent is tight as a drum.

The good news is that the guys in Atlanta had them used and they should be here in a couple of days. I hope that place never goes away.








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Brake bleeding sequence 87 non ABS 200

follow the Problem Solver

A Volvo Feature---Dual Braking----Safety just like the 3 point seat belts and the Crash Crumple Zone---and the Steel Bars in the doors

The reason is that Volvos have 2 distinct separate brake circuits. SAFETY---if one fails there is the other.

The bleeding sequence reveals how each one configured.








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Brake bleeding sequence 87 non ABS 200

I don't own a Bentley manual but have other sources of info and have been working on 4 wheel disc brake Volvos since around 1971 or so. I go with the method that has you jumping front to rear and side to side. It's important that you open the proper bleeders in front relative to upper and right and left side of caliper. Gravity bleeding overnight or for some hours may be helpful if the system has been emptied. I hate brake fluid--it sucks the moisture right out of your hands--wear gloves. -- Dave







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